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3/4 ton axles?

A

Artemis Entreri

1/2 ton status
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Ok I tried searching for 3/4 the search gave me no results suppose without words it didn't work. Even tried three quarter, got a bunch of random stuff as you would imagine.

Ok so my question is, what axles would I be looking for that are 3/4 ton and came from trucks around my year(91 blazer) that I could bolt right into my truck?

Looking for something with a 4.10 gearing or so.
Would going from 1/2 to 3/4 ton effect how my springs and stuff attach? When I was looking at lift kits I think they had a 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton options.
And lastly are 3/4 ton axles 6 lug like my 1/2 or no?

Thanks
 
you are looking for a 14bolt and a dana 60 front. they will be 8 lugs not 6. they are almost a direct bolt up but you have to change spring perches and a few small things but pretty easy.
 
I don't think that you'll be able to just bolt in any 3/4 ton axles. The shock mounts for the rear axles for sure will need to be relocated, & maybe the spring mounts.

4.10 gears would be easy to come up with.

6-lug are 1/2 ton, 8-lug are 3/4 or 1-ton.

Look here - http://www.coloradok5.com/8lugconversion.shtml

You will still need some kind of 8 lug rear axle for that type of thing & don't forget about wheels & tires. It turns into a pretty expensive little project.

HTH,
Buddy
 
Bleh shock mounts and spring perches huh? I can upkeep my truck pretty well, but im definantly no welder or fabricator by any stretch of the imagination.

Thanks guys
 
Shock mounts and spring perches are the SAME for 3/4 tons.. and any 73-87(91 for burbs) will bolt in. 1 tons is a different story. The other issue is many 3/4 tons in the 80's had the 14b semi floater in them, still a very stout axle, but not nearly that of a 14b full floater.

Also, 3/4 tons had a 10 bolt or d44 in the front, not a 60 :wink1:

If your planning on new tires anyway.. might as well do the 8 lug first and get 16" wheels. Lots of options out there for 16's now... and the price difference isn't much.

Most of the reason you see 3/4 ton options is the difference in u-bolt and spring plate sizes.. easy stuff to retrofit later.
 
i would look for one tons though. you will have to move stuff but you get the dana 60
 
Ok so 3/4 ton axles will bolt right in? That would be nice.

So I would be looking for a 14bolt rear and d44 front axles out of a 73-87 blazer or up to 91 if they came out of a burb?

Reason im thinking of the axles first is because I dont want to get new wheels and tires, and maybe have the bad luck of chewing up my gears in the axles of my 1/2 tons as this is my DD and im still on probation with work so I cant miss a day.

I would be looking for wheels and tires at the same time, just want a simple black steel wheel. Is there a reason to go 16inch as apposed to the stock 15 I have now?
Gotta figure out how wid of a rim I need, still not sure how that will effect how theylook or if they will rub, or if I need backspacing, lol.

Thanks for helping me figure this all out all
 
There were never any 3/4 ton stock blazers. You would be looking for a k20 truck up to 87, or 2500 burb up to 91
 
if your going to look for a 3/4 than all you need is the 14bolt from the back. you wouldnt need the d44. and if your wanting cheap wheels check out summit.com they have great deals on everything.
 
if your set on keeping your 6 lug wheels just get a 14BSF. also if you decide to go with 8 lug wheels, you can do the 8 lug swap on your front axle thats already in your truck
 
I not set, I dont mind buying new wheels. As for just changing the axles in my truck, im looking to go 3/4 ton mostly for the new gearing as i dont want to regearmy 1/2 stuff. So going to 8lug on my 1/2 ton stuff doesnt really help me I dont think.
 
The 3/4 ton front end is the same as the 1/2 ton front end, except for teh knuckles out.....which changes the lug count.

So swapping a 3/4 ton front end really just keeps you from converting yours to 8 lug and the matching gears. Lots of ppl do both, but finding a matchign set of axles sounds like the easiest plan for you.
 
Finally, some one said it:
Try to get the front and rear axles for your 3/4 ton conversion out of the same truck/burb. If you keep your current front axle great but then you would have to put the 8 lug hubs from a donor on yours and then spend a buch of money on a gear change if your current gears don't match your 14bff/14bsf you get from the junk yard. All in all, it would be less expensive to get matching axles from the same truck.
 
Big Blzn said:
Finally, some one said it:
Try to get the front and rear axles for your 3/4 ton conversion out of the same truck/burb. If you keep your current front axle great but then you would have to put the 8 lug hubs from a donor on yours and then spend a buch of money on a gear change if your current gears don't match your 14bff/14bsf you get from the junk yard. All in all, it would be less expensive to get matching axles from the same truck.
Click to expand...

That was the plan, not sure I explained it right because people are suggesting I just convert to 8 lug. This is mostly for the gearing, I figure it will cost prob more to regeat both 1/2 ton axles then it will to replace them with 3/4 stuff, and if its bolt in, I can do that myself in the driveway, so more money saved.

I am curious why people go to a 16 inch rim when they leave 1/2 ton,
And how will the width of the tire effect when the tire will rub and where?
And I assume the wider rim will give me less sidewall and a wider looking tire?
 
Artemis Entreri said:
That was the plan, not sure I explained it right because people are suggesting I just convert to 8 lug. This is mostly for the gearing, I figure it will cost prob more to regeat both 1/2 ton axles then it will to replace them with 3/4 stuff, and if its bolt in, I can do that myself in the driveway, so more money saved.

I am curious why people go to a 16 inch rim when they leave 1/2 ton,
And how will the width of the tire effect when the tire will rub and where?
And I assume the wider rim will give me less sidewall and a wider looking tire?
Click to expand...

i believe what most are saying is if you want to keep your front axle, then you can just convert it to 8 lug. it depends on how much you can find a set for?
 
Artemis Entreri said:
That was the plan, not sure I explained it right because people are suggesting I just convert to 8 lug. This is mostly for the gearing, I figure it will cost prob more to regeat both 1/2 ton axles then it will to replace them with 3/4 stuff, and if its bolt in, I can do that myself in the driveway, so more money saved.
Click to expand...

Yes To All. :)

Artemis Entreri said:
I am curious why people go to a 16 inch rim when they leave 1/2 ton,
And how will the width of the tire effect when the tire will rub and where?
And I assume the wider rim will give me less sidewall and a wider looking tire?
Click to expand...

The factory did 16" wheels on the 3/4- and 1-ton, i.e. 8 lug trucks.

It is possible to fit 15" wheels on the 8-lug axles, but at least on D60's can require grinding the calipers. I would imagine that D44/10b's have the same rotor diameter for 6- and 8-lug, so they'd be okay with 15" rims. I don't know about 14BFF's. In any event it would depend on your backspacing.

Also, your larger tire sizes are increasingly only available in larger wheel sizes, i.e. you'd find more 315/75/16 tires (I think that's nominally a 35") as opposed to 35x12.50x15 tires. I gather that some brands are starting at 17" rims now, even for the "off-road" tires.

-- A
 
if you want an example of what your getting into artemis i'm currrently doing this to my 89 burb using axles from a 75ish 3/4 ton. i chose 3/4 tons so i could get the full floating axle. the only difference i've encountered so far is the diff side u bolt is longer on the 3/4 ton axle and the driveshaft uses u-bolts instead of straps. here's a link.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249133

i went to 16" for my street tires because they are more readily stocked than 16.5" anymore, for trips and stuff.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/subscription.php?do=viewsubscription&folderid=all#
 
Thanks alot everyone.

I'm still a bit confused.
D44 for the front?
What for the rear? Im reading 14bolt, 10 bolt, 14bff/14bsf????

And these were never found in k5s, so im looking for k20s or burbs, ok.
Do they have any distinguishing features about them that I can look for so I know im getting what I need?
 
Artemis Entreri said:
Thanks alot everyone.

I'm still a bit confused.
D44 for the front?
What for the rear? Im reading 14bolt, 10 bolt, 14bff/14bsf????

And these were never found in k5s, so im looking for k20s or burbs, ok.
Do they have any distinguishing features about them that I can look for so I know im getting what I need?
Click to expand...

Yeah, if you are looking for a 14b bolt Full Floater (14bff) you want to see a hub sticking out of the wheel about 3" and has 8 bolts, that would be the axle shaft that unbolts from the outside and you can pull it out and the truck can still be sitting on the ground.
The 14 bolt Semi Float (14bsf) will have no such thing, it will have an almost oval shape like the 10 bolt you have but bigger and has 14bolts holding the diff cover.
The 14bff will have an angular cover similar to a Dana cover but with no drain plug and 14 bolts holding it.
If you can get the 14bff for the same price I would get it, especially if you can find it on the same truck with the front.
If not the 14bsf will be good enough for an upgrade for your 1/2 ton blazer, easily good for up to 38" tires
 
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