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3/4 ton Suburban - 35" tires w/ 4" lift - no rubbing???

Mikey von

Mikey von

1/2 ton status
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Burney, CA
Looking to purchase some new tires and wheels for my 89 3/4 ton burb this week. I am getting trxus Mt's with black steel wheels. :D

I have been thinking about getting the 35's with a 17" wheel. The lift is a 4" tuff country springs and blocks in the rear (want new rear springs). I have stock 3/4 ton 10blt front 14blt semifloat in rear. 4.10 ratio both open (want to be locked).

I do not really want to cut my burb and I do not really need 35's. I tow every so often and mainy do forest service roads and the side trails. Plenty of mud and snow. I have considered 33's, 34's, and 16" wheels also.

Money is not a huge issue, but spending less is always good, especially with the wife pregant with our 2nd.

How many run 35"s with 4" lift and get no rubbing with out cutting (or at least very minimal rubbing)?
 
ohh yeah,

if i run 17" wheels, can I run a stock 16" wheel for the spare? I am guessing that is a non issue.
 
How wide are the wheels of your choice?

If they're 8" wide, don't worry about rubbing.

If they're 10" wide, worry about the tires hitting the rear corners of the front fenders when you go up or down in a ditch or driveway at an angle.

Other than that, my '85 K30 has 4" front and rear springs with 35's on 9.75" wide rims and they only hit the fender corner on the driver side only and only when going up or down a driveway or ditch at an angle.
 
If I go with the 17's, the width will be 9" on the wheels.

Sounds like I should be fine or very close.
 
Is this a daily driver or off roader?

If its a DD, don't worry about anything. Worry about hitting and rubbing if its an off roader.
 
It is not a DD, but gets driven on the street often. I do not really wheel hard, but do take it on the forest service roads and their side roads often (my property backs up to the forest). It also sees mud and snow on said forest service roads in the winter. I would not mind wheeling it a little harder, just do not have the time or the money to fix much if it breaks. I pull a utility trailer with it, mostly full of firewood. I would like a travel trailer in the near future.
 
What lift were you planning on installing?
 
Well I just lifted my 81 k10 sub in the rear 4" with a shakle flip and the front 3" with springs and I have on 34.5 x 10.5 tsl supwer swampers on 16" x 8" wheels and it looks to me like I could fit 35s easy. But like said before the height should be fine it is the width that will matter most.
 
It currently has the lift I talked about. I want to add read springs and get rid of the blocks. I also plan on adding some nice shocks.

I have found a used set of MTR's on pirate. Seeing if I cna get them for a good price.
 
My Jimmy is lifted 4" with 35" tires and it only rubs on the passenger front behind the tire when going down in ditches or up in driveways like what was mentioned above.
 
nad said:
My Jimmy is lifted 4" with 35" tires and it only rubs on the passenger front behind the tire when going down in ditches or up in driveways like what was mentioned above.
Click to expand...


Mine was exactly the same as well. Only rubbed in deep ditches or really unlevel terrain. Worked great and never rubbed on the street.
 
With stock type bonded spring bushings at extreme flex, you may be alright, but I noticed my Burb with 4" TuffCountry EZs and ORD greasy bushings rubbed with 35s (LT315/75R17D BFG T/A KM), so I cut. Still rubs the front inner well.
Check the 16" wheels with the tie-rod end/knuckle joint, might not have clearance. I had to go 17"
 
If you are going to tow...

... and you are keeping the 4.10 ratio I would stick with a 33" tire. I think you will notice the lack of power trying to tow if you have the 35s whereas you probably won't notice a tire that is 2" shorter (in terms of off-road performance anyway). If it is just about looks, yes the 35 is going to probably look better. But from what you say you do with it most often I would rather have a little more power and not worry at all about rubbing.
 
I eventually would like to go with an NV4500 and 5.?? gears. It is just a money issue.

I have thought about going with 33's for more power, but I also want to bring Hwy RPM's down as much as possible. 35's will bring me to 2558 at 65mph. I would love to be at 1800 RPM. 33's will get me 2713 at 65mph. I currently spin at almost 2900 which sucks.

I do worry about losing power though. I have short term plans of a new IP and injectors, which should give me a little boost. I can always pull my trailer in LOW if I really need some juice.

Size wise it definately gives me something to think about.

I am pretty sure 16's will not have any clearance issues as I am running the stock 16's right now. Anyone else have problems with 16" wheels on 3/4 ton 10blt?

I can live with minor rubbing on full flex.
 
Heres my 89 with 4in and 35s on 15x8s.
I diidnt trim much at first, then hit a bump too fast and dented the corner and put a slice in the tire.
I dont think the final trim was too much but, functionable.

truck 005.jpg
 
It looks like I picked up a used set of 315/75R-16 MTR's off of pirate. Now just need to find some steel wheels, which I may also have a line on from pirate.

I will trim if I have to. I will play the lets rub and see game.
 
Okay I just swapped the inner, and outer front fenders on my 89 Sub.

4" Skyjacker lift, and 15/35x16.5LT Super swampers (Bias)

These tires ARE rubbing both sides (but mostly driver side), and they rub both bottom corners on the outer fenders.

I am gonna have trim, but it won't be much.

I'd say buy the 35's, your gonna want them sooner or later anyways, and the cutting will be almost non-apparent.
 
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