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3/4 ton?

rgorsuch87

rgorsuch87

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Posts
120
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Location
Powell, WY
Ok I've got an 86 with a 4" lift and 35's. I've already busted a front axle shaft so I know more are in the future. My question is should I get 3/4 ton axles or beef up my 1/2 tons? If I go to 3/4 tons what should I be looking for? And how much work is involved with doing a 3/4 ton swap? Am I looking at redoing the steering, brake system, springs, shocks? :confused: Just not sure what way to go, so any advice or ideas help. Thanks
 
Going to 3/4 ton will only gain you an 8 lug pattern and larger brake rotors. The axleshafts are the same either way. Alloy shafts make a big difference, but I bent the housing on my 3/4ton D44, so there are still other weaknesses there besides the shafts.
 
Hmm I've always thought that 3/4 ton axle shafts were stronger than 1/2 tons. They have more splines and the shafts them selfs are bigger. If they aren't strong than why do so many ppl do it? What you've said just doesn't make any sense.
 
Sorry not to specify, but I was referring to the front axle, since you mentioned breaking a front axleshaft. The front axleshafts are not larger, bor do they have a higher spline count in 3/4 ton than the 1/2 ton.
The rear 14FF is the same in 3/4 ton or 1 ton, other than spring perch and shock mount locations. You can upgrade your rear and change the outers on your existing front if you already have the gear ration you want. The front axleshafts don't actually get stronger until you go 1 ton(Dana 60)
The other option for the rear is a 14SF that came in some 3/4 tons and offers better strength than a 1/3 ton with better clearance and less weight than the 14FF.
It all depends on how strong you want to go, how much tire you want to run, and how much money you want to spend. Personally, I would replace your axleshafts with alloys and keep the 1/2 tons if you're not gonna run more than a 35" tire, because your ground clearance will suck with 35's and a 14FF.
 
Ok that's the answer I was looking for lol. So the Dana 60 front is a 1 ton axle and not a 3/4 ton? Yeah I should have been alittle more specific also. I'm looking to beef up or replace with beefer axles front and rear. Something that is going to handle 35 inch tires better than the 1/2 tons I have do.
 
if youre doing the rear to you might as well use the 14ff rear as it is stronger than the semi floater.

i agree with throttle issues about the alloy axles and 35's, unless your running a really torquey motor or hauling heavy stuff while fourwheeling.
 
yup, either pick up a set of 3/4's with better gears (often in 4:10 flavor) for the 35's.. or 14 out back and convert your front to 8... you could upgrade front shafts while swapping in the 8 lug stuff...
 
ask John about d44 fronts.....
Definitely find a 60 front and 14ff rear. I got my 60 from Zeir's salvage yard years ago. Alot of times farms have old beat up farm trucks in the south 40 rusting away and if your lucky you can find a 1-ton and haul that old rust bucket off for him.
 
a dana 60 front would be nice, and if you can find one cheap that's the way to go....but if you're like me and don't want to spend about $2000 on a front axle (probably have to rebuild it, change gears, and add a locker) then keeping the old 1/2 ton axle and converting it to 8 lug so it matches the rear 14 bolt FF sounds like a better deal.....what part broke and what were you doing when it broke?
 
It was the left axle shaft. It snapped about in the middle of the inside shaft and twisted the splines. I was in the bottom of a creek crossing and got stuck in some sand so I gave it alittle more skinny pedal to try and get out and the front axle hopped once and thats all she wrote.
 
rgorsuch87 said:
It was the left axle shaft. It snapped about in the middle of the inside shaft and twisted the splines. I was in the bottom of a creek crossing and got stuck in some sand so I gave it alittle more skinny pedal to try and get out and the front axle hopped once and thats all she wrote.
Click to expand...

open diffs?
 
well, you hear a lot of guys say not to lock the D44's and 10 bolts, but I say lock em and carry spare shafts just in case. with the added traction you might not have gotten stuck in the 1st place, and therefore not had to gas it to get loose. now the rear 10 bolt is a whole nother story, the rear axle handles most of the grunt work, so beef is a necessity here
 
My '73 Sub was a 3/4 ton model. I broke the shafts 3 times in my front D44. I'm not a super hard core wheeler and I don't rock crawl. 1/2 and 3/4 ton stuff is too small for a Suburban IMO unless you pretty much use 4x4 for icy roads. The first time I broke it it had an open diff. I thought a locker would help, then I got new shafts and a Detroit. Broke that (not the Detroit, lol). In fact, the first 2 times I had stock size tires!! I never tried alloy shafts, though. The third time I broke it I had no more patience. Got a D60 and have never looked back.
 
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