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305 to 350 84 k5 problems.. Need Help!

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wed68

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I have been working on a 305 to 350 conversion in my 84 k5, the 350 is in the hole, mounted to the new 700r4 and I am working from underneath the truck first cause I hate laying on the ground!

Problem one: The new motor is driverside dipstick the old motor is passenger, so the driver side manifold blocks the dipstick. Options are headers but then I will have to adapt for the a/c brackets, or will I be able to find a stock manifold that will work on the driver side with this dipstick. Are there any dipsticks that are made for this situation?

Problem two: I am not going back with any air pump, esc, or knock sensor. I have found one post on another forum about bypassing the esc and knock sensor, but I really need more information. Has any one done this with success?

Problem three: I do not believe my Qjet has any electronic control at all, there is only a wire connected to the choke and one wire connected to the solenoid that idles the engine up when the a/c is on....any comments?

Problem four: I would love to remove the carbon canister to clean up the engine compartment, but I know there is one line that is connected to the fuel tank can I just cap that line?

Problem five: The fuel pump has three lines on it, one is a return to the tank, is this needed, and does it have anything to do with the carbon canister line to the tank?

Thanks for all the information! I really enjoy this site!


Bill
 
Go to your local auto parts store and look at a dipsticks, you might find one that will fit around the exhaust manifold on the left. Or just get some headers :D For the A/C bracket on my headers, I just used a the same bolt that was used with the manifold and the bracket in the front. I flipped it around so the long end was sticking out and it would tighting up the header. Then I used a piece of brass tube I found in my shop about 2 inches long and used it as a spacer for my A/C bracket. You could find any thing like that to use as a spacer at a hardware store.

I dont believe they had electric carb controls in 84.
I've heard of people removing that carbon cansiter, I'm the same as you, I'm not sure if I should cap the line to the fuel tank.
Trace that 3rd hose coming out of your fuel pump. where does it go? Haven't seen that before.
 
Capping the EVAP line is a bad idea, the tank will build up pressure as the caps aren't vented right.

*IF* I had EVAP, I'd figure a way to simplify it a bit, but keep it. After opening up a fuel tank with TONS of rust from condensation in it, I'm going to do everything possible to not just vent the tank with a breather, and EVAP appears to have been a fairly effective way of doing it unfortunately.
 
eclipse, I had thought of the bolt reversal but it is good to hear that it does work! Maybe headers are the way to go!

I really want the carbon cannister gone!

Thanks for the post

Bill
 
dyeager535, What all does that cannister do? I agree I would rather a good vent on the tank! but I really do not like the cannister!

Bill
 
Milodon makes a dipstick for you that is flexible braided in the center so you can route it around and bolt it on , in Summit book page 128 # MIL-22000. EVAP is good , gas vapors go back to tank , paint EVAP can chrome if you don't like it :k5: :k5:
 
did your 350 not come with manifolds?

when i was lookin around for my truck, i saw a 84 that had don this swap, he put the 350 in and diddent change to the 350 manifolds, he left the 305 ones on and they had a wicked exaust leak, im not shure if the port sizes are the same but it might be somthing you would want to check.
 
pauly, I will look up that dip stick soon Thanks



surpip, I checked the manifold ports on my 305 manifolds and they were slightly larger then the 882 head exhaust ports so I am in good shape with floww I think, I have a new exhaust system that will bolt to the existing manifolds that I had put in a few months back so I was trying to save that.



Thanks for the replies, I think I will keep the EVAP I believe it helps to reduce vapor locking as well with the return line off the fuel pump and all!

Keep the replies coming!

Bill
 
Cannister "absorbs" the fuel vapor from the tank when the vehicle isn't running, then when certain conditions are met (varies on application, but typically vents to engine when temp is right, or vehicle is cruising) the valve opens, and allows the vapor the cannister has absorbed to be ingested into the engine. There is a replaceable carbon "pack" at the bottom of the cannister that is supposed to be absorbing or holding the vapor/condensed fuel.

I don't know as I recommend this, but on my car a PO had pulled the cannister lines, but left the ones from the tank and the port on the carb. I connected the cannister directly to the tank line, and from the cannister directly to the EVAP port on the carb, and drove that way for YEARS with no problems.

I don't know as I like the above in principle, although I'm not sure what kind of "safety" feature the stock EVAP system has built into it from the factory. If it has a one way check valve (like the one between the brake booster and intake or in the AIR system) between the carb and cannister, I think it woud be pretty safe to do. Otherwise I don't like the idea of something odd like a backfire igniting fuel vapor. Which is also why I don't just like the idea of venting the tank somewhere, no matter where on the vehicle.

IIRC all the GM gas caps have a VERY low rating to allow outside air into the tank...you should be able to suck on the underside of the gas cap and feel very little resistance, while blowing on the underside should be pretty hard. I think the vent to atmosphere is something like 16PSI on later caps. I've got an earlier cap and the tank STILL builds pressure even though the vent PSI should be much lower. EVAP is just a better way to go IMO.
 
How about the esc bypass anyone ever heard of this?
 
Put ESC distributor in box , hide in garage , go to Autozone , say you have a 74 or newer Camaro , Nova , Impala with a 350 , buy distributor , drive truck :D
 
thats what I did!

When I put an 86 305 in my 79 C10,I had to ditch the Q-jet that had the electric mixture control solenoid,and used the edelbrock performer off the old 250 six it had--I had an HEI distributor from a 76 305 so I dropped that in to eliminate the other one that was tied in with the knock sensor--My vapor canister was no longer needed,no place too hook up the hoses on a performer,I just took it out and tucked the hoses in the front fender's inner openings--none are hooked to the motor,so no vacuum is in the canister,I left the other hoses open,I havent had any odors or problems with it so far,and its been this way since last august...

The dipstick dilema should be solved by using the right manifolds for the engine-the right one will curve away from the dipstick hole,and allow the tube to miss and go in the block..it might take some boneyard hunting to find the right one...:crazy:
 
When I put my 350 in my 85. I just took all that EVAP, or what ever all those hoses are that run to the carb and the AIR system and tucked them in the corner of the fender still hooked up to the cannister. I'd like to unhook them and leave the cannister, but I dont know :confused:
 
Started Blazer tonight around midnight, she sounded great, I went thru a 20 minute break in at 2000 rpm. Now tomorrow night I am going to change the oil and restart to tune. Did I mention she sounds great. There is a certain feeling I get every time I start a new motor, it makes all the work and busted knuckles worth it. Sorry I am gettin emotional!!

One problem though the eldebrock performer intake and the accelerator (sp) tv bracket do not seem to jive right. The pedal is harder than normal and the tv cable seems tight, is there an aftermarket bracket for that intake?

Did I mention how great the new sbc sounded!!!!!!!

Bill
 
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