CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

30ish degrees of rotational play in my steering wheel

goathearder

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 7, 2010
Posts
581
Reaction score
0
Location
Tustin, Ca
Hey everyone, I am going through all these little things 1 by 1 and next on my list is the play in the steering wheel. Basically, I can turn the steering wheel OR the steering shaft about 30 degrees before I get any movement of the tires. It isn't a problem per-se because other than that it drives and turns fine but its totally freakin annoying.

I checked out the rag joint and it seems ok but I have no idea what else to check. Is this common? I have a 73 if that makes a difference. I have heard of people doing XJ shaft swaps to get rid of the rag joint but I know that doesn't work on a 73 and I don't think the rag joint is the issue anyway.

Anything specific I can check if I take the steering box out?

Thanks,
John
 
1) did you get your bumper bolts?

2) can you get someone to move the steering wheel while you look over everything? That is the absolute best method of finding a problem.....find movement, then find no movement.....and you have found your problem. :)
 
Worn components in the steering, replacing the rag joint with a u-jointed shaft (say a Borgeson unit) will help, worn suspension bushings and/or flimsy shackles contribute to it, as will a worn steering box.

More info on the truck, including tire height, is useful.
 
you can do the xj on a 73. worked fine on mine i just ground down the column shaft and it fit my steering box.

made a big difference for me
 
Worn components in the steering, replacing the rag joint with a u-jointed shaft (say a Borgeson unit) will help, worn suspension bushings and/or flimsy shackles contribute to it, as will a worn steering box.

More info on the truck, including tire height, is useful.

Truck is a 73 K5. 6 inch suspension lift plus 3 inch body. Stock drivetrain (d44 front/12 bolt rear) and stock running gear (350/350/203) with 35 inch tires on it.

Runs and drives fine and turns fine except for that slop. I have no problem replacing the rag joint or the steering shaft so long as I can isolate the problem to that.
 
When I first bought my truck it had alot of play in the wheel. Found where the draglink ends were shot and you could turn it a good bit before you got wheel movement.

Do this, have someone turn the wheel back and forth in the 'play' zone, and look for where the movement is occuring. Look at the input to the box and the output, see if you get instant 'output' when input starts. If not then the box or ragjoint is worn. If you get movement there move down and look at the draglink. See if they move but it doesnt move the steering arm, also make sure the steering arm isnt loose on the axle. From there move down to the tierod and see if those ends are giving movement.
 
Thanks Chris! I will jump under there and check all that out tonight. Hopefully it is an easy fix.
 
I had the same problem changed the whole drag link with new ends and it went away.:woot:
 
Yeh, also have heard (never experienced it) that if you still have some slop in the wheel that the threads in the adjuster sleeve on the draglink will wear over time and give a little slop as well. Dont remember if you can get that from somewhere like autozone or not. Probably be able to get it from NAPA. Let me know if that sorts it out, but even if the play isnt in the ragjoint, I would still get an XJ shaft, it tightened mine up a little bit more even though everything else was still relatively new.
 
Well the issue was not what I expected at all. Had my wife turn the steering while I laid under that car and watched and turns out the steering box wasn't tight! It would move around a bit until it caught and then the steering would turn. Tightened the bolts down and now its super tight!!!

As a bonus, I noticed there was a weld in steering area stiffner already installed so that is one less thing I have to worry about!!!

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
May wanna go ahead and install the bolt on brace as well, extra insurance plus keeps the frame from deflecting a little.
 
Oh, I didn't know you needed both at the same time. If it adds insurance I will add that to my list.
 
From what I understand the brace helps prevent in the first place, the repair just fixes the cracks & gives some reinforcement, but I have read on here where guys have ended up cracked the welded on patch. Even then I know with wide tires (mine are 15.5) before the brace, sitting still and turning the tires you could watch that frame horn move a little. Put in the brace, no problems.
 
Top Bottom