33's or 35's on 4" lift

[bp71k5]

I think I've read all the articles there are on this subject, but it seems like some say you can run 35's with 4-6" of lift without any trimming, but some say they still have some rubbing. Can anyone with a 1st-gen confirm 35's won't rub with a 4" lift (4" in front, 6" in rear). I'd rather go 35's but am afraid they'll rub.

 

[Roland_Jenkins]

I had a 72 with 4" spring lift and 2" body lift no trimming. The rear's didn't just rub they bent in the panel behind the rear wheel. I was on Prichett Canyon trail in Moab. Tires were 12.50x35x16.5 BF AT's

 

[bp71k5]

Ah, good to know. That's what I was afraid of. 33's looks like the better option.

 

[Jimmy4matt]

I guess you alread have your answer, but for what it's worth I have a 4" skyjacker lift and 35" bfg at on 15x10 and they rub hard in front on decent bumps with wheel slightly turned. I need to trim lower front of front fenders.

 

[bigblock72]

35s can work without trimming on 8 inch wheels. My dad's 72 K5 has 4 inch springs, 35 inch Baja Claws on M.T. Classic IIs and only very minor rubbing. There is no way to not rub with 10 inch wheels no matter what lift you use, unless you limit up travel with long bumpstops. If you want to go with 10 inch wheels then you need to move the front axle forward an inch and trim the front of the wheel opening, then use bumptops to keep the tire out of the inner fender.

 

[packer]

My 72 has 4 inch lift, springs in front blocks in back with 35" bfg on 8" stock factory rally wheels and never had any problems.

 

[vtblazer]

All depends on how your going to use it.

(general rule of thumb) cause there are always exception's.

33's are the max. if your only running a 4" lift and your going to wheel it hard.
35's with a 4" lift work pavement pounding/mall cruising and dirt roads.

Wheel width and back spacing play a big part in the equation as well.

 

[CDA 455]

I haven't read every comment on this thread so I apologize if I'm redundant.

On the front springs use O.R.D.'s Zero Rate Springs to move your axle forward so it doesn't rub the rear part of the front fender.

Points to remember:

1)All the stock wheel well openings are approximately 36" at the base.
2)Depending on the tire brand, '35's' are really 33.5" to 34" BRAND NEW .
3)The metric tire sizes are much more accurate on their sizes.
4)When you measure tires for their ACTUAL size, make sure they're mounted
on a rim and aired up to street p.s.i.
5)IDEALLY, a suspension lift is ONLY for MORE articulation. Take a look at a Baja 1000 Trophy Truck; they SIT at about the same height as a stock '72 4X4 Blazer but have almost 34" of wheel travel!!

 

[bp71k5]

Thanksfor all the comments. It looks like I'll plan for 33's since my axle locations aren't centered all that well anymore after the lift. I may have to try to move the rear axle back some at least.

 

[Greg72]

Thanksfor all the comments. It looks like I'll plan for 33's since my axle locations aren't centered all that well anymore after the lift. I may have to try to move the rear axle back some at least.

It is probably worth noting that with a leafsprung/rear shackle'd suspension.....as the wheel travels UP it also travels BACK in the wheelwell.

This may not be enough to prevent rubbing, if your axle offset is severe but it also might not be as bad as you think.

 

[bp71k5]

That's a good point. It does look similar to some other pictures I've seen, but I won't know till I can actually drive it. Hopefully by this weekend it will drive out of the garage on it's own 4 wheels.