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3400 intake gaskets

79rustyk10

79rustyk10

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Ive got a 99 grand am DD and intake gaskets are more or less out. Ive never torn into one of these engines before. Is there anything special I need to do this? I only have a very very basic selection of hand tools. I know a torque wrench is needed. Anything else I should need, or expect when I tear into this?
 
Make damn sure you DO NOT mix up the pushrods, the intake and exhaust pushrods are different lengths (about .400" difference) and a mistake in mixing them up will result in bent valves and having to pull the heads.
 
Kinda funny you say that. a friend just told me the same thing.

Im really dreading this project. Ive done more intake swaps or top end tear-downs and rebuilds on small block chev's than I can remember, but new stuff scares me. and the fact that I NEED this car to get to school and work everyday.
 
Take your time and you'll be ok. Now you know about the pushrod length differences your money ahead of the game now.
 
Take plenty of pictures along the way! Don't worry about the wiring stuff, for the most part the plugs are unique to each sensor / device, and it is pretty tough to hook things up wrong.
 
It's not that bad of a job, course I've done more of these than I care to remember working at the dealer. The Fel Pro gaskets are fine just use the correct torque specs and torque sequence. Make sure to use some loctite on the lower intake bolts and don't cheap out on the silicone for the front & rear sealing surfaces. I like to use "The Right Stuff", dries fast so if you use it make sure you're ready to drop the intake back on. You can buy it at Napa, Checkers, etc.
Here is also a neat tool that makes the job a lot easier. http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_2522_125/lisle_push_rod_remover.html

With this you don't have to mess with taking the rockers loose which on the rear cylinder head means removing the valve cover and everthing that bolts on & around it. When I was doing these all the time it saved me a ton of time which meant making more money.

And definitely the above stated importance of not mixing up the pushrods.
Usually if you take an old box or I used to use an antifreeze jug to put the pushrods in, label it front/back of engine and just put them in little holes one at a time in the order you remove them. The empty antifreeze jug also helps hold the oil that will drip out of them.

pushrod.jpg
 
According to how that tool works (and how i assumed it did) you still need to remove the valve cover(s) and anything that is in the way of doing so. I can see a small amount of time savings but not much since these engines have a torque value on the rocker bolts and not an adjustment. I don't think the person that does this job once or twice needs to justify buying a tool that will save them about 15 minutes of work, BUT if you do this kind of work for a living then that's a whole nother story.
 
Scott, isn't this also going to require him to have a tool to disconnect the fuel lines? I know my 98 Lumina had the spring type fuel lines at the intake, and I had to use the proper tool to disconnect them. Just want to give him a heads up if that is the case, they are cheap but invaluable when they are needed.
 
I've never worked on these engines while they are in a vehicle but i'm sure he probably does need the disconnect tools IF he doesn't already have them or have access to them.

You have to remember that my engine knowledge is from building these on a bench not working on them in a vehicle.
 
Not trying to test your knowledge, just give a heads up before he gets there. Just something I ran into that I didn't expect when I did the Beretta to Lumina engine swap, and I got lucky and happened to be in a shop that had them.

Keep that in mind 79rustyk10, if you check the fuel lines heading to the rails, you will probably see them with a big round end where the lines meet. This is a spring clip and requires a disconnect tool, available at any parts store, to remove the lines. I know that in 97 and 98 GM was using them, so your 99 is most likely to have them as well.
 
Some need the disconnects and some don't for the fuel lines. That tool is nice (I bought one after I did my third set at work) but not required for taking push rods out. Fel-Pro is the way to go with these. Ive done a few so i can get em done in a few hours but it should take about 4 hours. Just take your time and it should go fine. Like was said earlier the wireing isn't a big deal most all sensors have different connector so it is pretty much fool proof.

Good Luck,
Shawn
 
I have a set of the fuel line disconnects, problem is theyre at my parents place 2.5 hours away, with most of my other tools:doah:
 
Ive used the said tool and also a prybar to collapse the valve springs to remove the push rods. Not a hard job at all. Also you can move the power steering pump out of the way without removing the pulley or any lines from the pump. Just loosen the rear valve cover and you can snake the intake out.
 
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