350 or 383?

[pismorat]

Would you recommend a 350 or 383? Either would have to be rebuilt. It'd go in a shortbed p/u and is mainly an off-road vehicle. I want as much power as possible, but also want reliability. Any advice is welcome. I am trying to figure out what direction to start in. This will be replacing my un-fixable 406. Thanks.

 

[backcountry]

The more cubic inches you have generally the more power you will have both in hp and torque!

The more power you produce the more stress you introduce.

I believe a 350 would be more reliable. The 350 has been around forever and is very reliable. The 383 on the other hand has not been around near as long.

 

[beater_k20]

regardless of displacement, a small block Chevy, is a small block Chevy. a 350 will be no more reliable than a 383. where you run into reliability issues is when you start overbuilding the engine.

 

[SUBFAN]

Power per dollar, a 383 is a very cost effective way to go...The torque increase is what you will notice the most.

What went wrong with the 400????

 

[backcountry]

Since you are using a 400 crank and therefore increasing the stroke to produce 383 cubic inches; the rods swing further. This increases the working angle. It has the potential to cause the pistons to scuff/bind so to speak.

When you do this modification you are removing metal from the block to allow for clearances. I would think that if you are to remove material, it has the potential of weakening the overall structure.

 

[MTMike]

There's more involved with building a 383 over a 350, but after owning both, I must say that the 383 is much more enjoyable.

 

[beater_k20]

Since you are using a 400 crank and therefore increasing the stroke to produce 383 cubic inches; the rods swing further. This increases the working angle. It has the potential to cause the pistons to scuff/bind so to speak.

When you do this modification you are removing metal from the block to allow for clearances. I would think that if you are to remove material, it has the potential of weakening the overall structure.

actually very few people use stock 5.565" rods in a 383. so you're actually going with a longer rod and lowering the "working agle" a good quality piston, rings, and a properly sized bore will eliminate and problems with the scuffing and binding of pistons.

when clearancing the block, you're removing material from areas that dont really see stress anyways, so the "weakening of the structure" goes unnoticed.

very few people who have CORRECTLY built a 383 have experienced problems in either of these areas. shortcutting things leads to problems.

 

[pismorat]

Wow, thanks! Great information. I'm leaning towards doing the 383 now. Is it better to buy a stroker rotating assembly as a kit, or piece one together? I want to do it right, and I'll wait till I get the money to do it right! Thanks again!

 

[backcountry]

If you are not that familiar with what you are ordering; it would be better if you ordered a kit in my opinion!

 

[fatboy]

here is what I used 383 I have only rebuilt a few so I took this to a well know machine shop and had them put together the short block for me. Not one problem. I think I spent close to 4000 for the machine work and assemble plus the kit. I called powerhouse and they taylored the kit to what I wanted with no hassel I went with the long rod and hyperutetic pistons and a steel crank. Good luck with your plans

 

[Jonny-K5]

i'd say 383 for you application. and i think getting a GM crate HT 383 would be the best/easiest way to go about it.

 

[theitalian404]

if your on a budget and need a new motor...look into summit racing..they have a boatload of motors. My friend bought a crate 350 like 5 months ago..for under $2000.