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355 or 383?

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Ultra light crank in a truck? That sounds like swapping in a 7.5" 10 bolt in the rear because the 8.5" wasn't cutting it.

[/ QUOTE ] Guess you must not know what 4340 Non twist steel is. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
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Why do you want 10.1:1 compression? I have noticed a trend in you that you like high compression. Why? High compression motors are a PITA unless you plan on running propane. If it was me I would keep it about 9.1:1 comp so you can put gas in it that isn't $5 per gallon.

[/ QUOTE ] I like high compression engines. MORE POWER !!!!! But they do wear out quicker. I'm planning on closer to 11 to 1 on the next street screamer I build. But ofcorse I'm talking aluminum heads.

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Why? You don't gain all that much power from a little more compression and if it is carbed you run the risk of having pinging problems. I guess I am just practicle, I would rather have a 9.1:1 motor that will run on 89-91 octane fine without any pinging and doesn't require a bottle of boost or a gallon or 2 of 110 every time I will work it hard.

[/ QUOTE ] Hello, "aluminum heads"
 
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Not exactly sure what you're using nitrous or boost on a 4wd truck for, but obviously you already know that a forged crank isn't a bad idea if you're doing that.

I say it has no place in a truck because you're better off saving that $500 and having your engine balanced, decked, etc. with that money, or spending $500 more on your cylinder heads which will net a ton of additional power.

[/ QUOTE ] How about doing all that and have the forged crank ??? Shure it'll cost alittle more, but I'm willing too spend the money. My app is more mud then anything else.
 
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Why do you want 10.1:1 compression? I have noticed a trend in you that you like high compression. Why? High compression motors are a PITA unless you plan on running propane. If it was me I would keep it about 9.1:1 comp so you can put gas in it that isn't $5 per gallon.

[/ QUOTE ] I like high compression engines. MORE POWER !!!!! But they do wear out quicker. I'm planning on closer to 11 to 1 on the next street screamer I build. But ofcorse I'm talking aluminum heads.

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Why? You don't gain all that much power from a little more compression and if it is carbed you run the risk of having pinging problems. I guess I am just practicle, I would rather have a 9.1:1 motor that will run on 89-91 octane fine without any pinging and doesn't require a bottle of boost or a gallon or 2 of 110 every time I will work it hard.

[/ QUOTE ] Hello, "aluminum heads"

[/ QUOTE ] Regardless 11.1:1 will probably still ping with aluminum heads and especially if it's carbed. Alum heads only help with say .5:1 so that same motor would be like 10.5:1 with iron heads, too high for pump gas...or at least pump gas without pinging.
 
You can run lower compression on iron heads and basically come out to exactly the same place power-wise as you do with aluminum heads and higher compression.

Aluminum heads are good for repairing if they get damaged, and weight savings, nothing more. Both good things, just something to think about if money gets tight.
 
I don't agree. I agree that if two heads are the same in everyway except one is steel and one is aluminum, yes the steel will make more power. Its just the way things are, but a set of Iron heads that flow as well as say a set of out of the box AFR 195s is gonna cost you more than a set of AFR 195s. And as for Tim's point, I agree for the motor build I am talking personally, I won't waste my time or money on a forged crank. My present 355 has a forged crank, didn't cost me a penny just had it so we used it. If it weren't for the fact that that is a 2 piece rear main motor I would pull that forged crank out and throw it in the roller motor. WHy? have the option of throwing in forged rods and pistons and juicing her up.
 
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Why do you want 10.1:1 compression? I have noticed a trend in you that you like high compression. Why? High compression motors are a PITA unless you plan on running propane. If it was me I would keep it about 9.1:1 comp so you can put gas in it that isn't $5 per gallon.

[/ QUOTE ] I like high compression engines. MORE POWER !!!!! But they do wear out quicker. I'm planning on closer to 11 to 1 on the next street screamer I build. But ofcorse I'm talking aluminum heads.

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Why? You don't gain all that much power from a little more compression and if it is carbed you run the risk of having pinging problems. I guess I am just practicle, I would rather have a 9.1:1 motor that will run on 89-91 octane fine without any pinging and doesn't require a bottle of boost or a gallon or 2 of 110 every time I will work it hard.

[/ QUOTE ] Hello, "aluminum heads"

[/ QUOTE ] Regardless 11.1:1 will probably still ping with aluminum heads and especially if it's carbed. Alum heads only help with say .5:1 so that same motor would be like 10.5:1 with iron heads, too high for pump gas...or at least pump gas without pinging.

[/ QUOTE ] I don't see how you figure. Anytime you can get higher compression, you'll make more power. Heads like the Dart Pro 1 Aluminum Cylinder Heads, or aluminum AFR's will preform much better then stock iron heads, and let you run closer to 11 to 1 on 91 oct. pump gas with out pinging. Ofcorse it'll cost alittle more, but it's worth it. I've ran close to 11 to 1 (10.8 to 1) on 91 oct with a carb with no ping. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
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I don't see how you figure. Anytime you can get higher compression, you'll make more power. Heads like the Dart Pro 1 Aluminum Cylinder Heads, or aluminum AFR's will preform much better then stock iron heads, and let you run closer to 11 to 1 on 91 oct. pump gas with out pinging. Ofcorse it'll cost alittle more, but it's worth it. I've ran close to 11 to 1 (10.8 to 1) on 91 oct with a carb with no ping. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

[/ QUOTE ] Yes you gain a LITTLE bit more power. I almost bought a set of AFR's when I had my motor apart a couple of months ago but couldn't wait the 6 weeks for them. Don't know where you came up with stock heads....they are junk. I would run Merlin, Pro Topline, or Dart irons before I would run stock heads. If it was me I wouldn't run more than 9.5:1 with alums and a carb or 10.1:1 with EFI but thats with a 406 and california gas. I am running 9.2:1 with irons and a carb and if the motor gets above 205 or so it will ping even on Chevron 91.
 
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I don't see how you figure. Anytime you can get higher compression, you'll make more power. Heads like the Dart Pro 1 Aluminum Cylinder Heads, or aluminum AFR's will preform much better then stock iron heads, and let you run closer to 11 to 1 on 91 oct. pump gas with out pinging. Ofcorse it'll cost alittle more, but it's worth it. I've ran close to 11 to 1 (10.8 to 1) on 91 oct with a carb with no ping. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

[/ QUOTE ] Yes you gain a LITTLE bit more power. I almost bought a set of AFR's when I had my motor apart a couple of months ago but couldn't wait the 6 weeks for them. Don't know where you came up with stock heads....they are junk. I would run Merlin, Pro Topline, or Dart irons before I would run stock heads. If it was me I wouldn't run more than 9.5:1 with alums and a carb or 10.1:1 with EFI but thats with a 406 and california gas. I am running 9.2:1 with irons and a carb and if the motor gets above 205 or so it will ping even on Chevron 91.

[/ QUOTE ] I haven't had a problem with the 10.8 to 1 engines with aluminum heads and 91 octane gas. This next engine is getting the Dart Pro 1 aluminum heads. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
91 octane sucks anyway, but if you didn't have such a small cam, you wouldn't have knock issues. To draw a hard line at 9.5 as the limit for compression with aluminum heads would be silly when dynamic compression ratio plays a huge issue in this subject and with the right combo people are running over 10:1 with IRON heads and carbs on pump gas.

I personally wouldn't build a motor with LESS than 9.5:1 with aluminum heads. Hell the whole point is to go a point higher than you would with Iron. I'd probably shoot for at least 9.5.
 
Ok here is my 2 cents. First of all if i were on a budget, (usually am) I would go to my local Chevy/GMC dealer and find out if they will sell old motor cores. I did it. You want 96-98 1/2 ton 5.7 vin code "R" motors. Got mine for $100 with a thrashed bottom end. But you get the vortec heads, roller lifters, guides, hold down, and pushrods. WHo cares if they are used. Roller lifters can be reused and if there is 1 or 2 that are no good GM sells them individually.

This is the route I went. Cost me like $50 to get the heads machined for bigger springs and more lift. Buy LT4 springs retainers and locks and the ZZ4 cam from the dealer. Springs, etc are cheap. Cam is average. The ZZ4 is way torquier than you would think and it revs to 5800 easy. The only issue I had was compression. I bought KB pistons and the dish size was misadvertised by alot. I didn't measure untill after I had them installed on my rods so Summit wouldn't take them back. I ended up w/ 8.24-1 /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif The motor still works well in a 6000 lb truck w/ 38's it's just missing a little of the low end I would have gotten w/ 9.1 or so. By the way stock crank and rods and on my 2nd season bouncin' off my 6000 rev limiter.
 
Yes this is a budget build but the block is free so thats not my a worry. Heads well we will see. If I can come up with some Vortecs cheap I will run them in a heartbeat. As it is I am thinking I may save money and just splurge on some AFR heads. Shall see.
 
I don't think you'll regret the AFRs at all.

Even if you got the Vortec heads for free, they're a potential money pit with all the stuff required to install them.
 
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Not exactly sure what you're using nitrous or boost on a 4wd truck for

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Pull up next to me at the light and I'll show you,,, /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
 
eh, money pit is a relative term. I could get some vortecs. $100 some for the valve spring kit, $50 to get the heads machined. My own port work, and I'm done all for like $350. Where as the cheapest NEW assembled heads will run me like $600 something. Why spend my money on some $600 head when the $350 ones will do fine and either one will be replaced later on.
 
FWIW, the valve spring issue is *probably* solved. I believe it is comp that now makes "beehive" springs that are a drop-in for the Vortec heads.

Higher pressures, no machining. Still additional $$ for springs that aftermarket heads shouldn't require, but if thats all you need to spend money on, then should keep the cost lower still.
 
As I recall, the price on those beehive springs is pretty ridiculous. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Yes, if I've got the right springs, you are right.

insane prices

Guess if you were dead set on not pulling the heads off an engine, these are a good choice, but I can't believe some "standard" higher pressure springs and the machining would come out to more than those prices.

Forget I even suggested them. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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Not exactly sure what you're using nitrous or boost on a 4wd truck for


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turbo boost makes so much sense in a 4x4
light throttle off boost economy of a small block
with full throttle boosted power of a big block

N2O I do not think makes sense as the bottle refills would drive me nuts
even on my street car that was a major expense and PITA
 
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