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37s on 10 bolt

There are a couple guys here in the Colorado Crew that have good luck with that setup.

Of course, I broke a D60 hub and stub shaft on 37's in a 4200 lb rig.

Be easy on it and carry spares, it'll probably work for you ;)
 
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230508&highlight=topless

Thumper (the blue truck, owned by Fred2mihi) is on 37" MT/Rs, 1/2 tons and is locked front and rear. I don't believe he's broken anything other than a lock-rite.

mrk5 (the yellow K5) also ran 37's and 1/2 tons for quite a while with good success, seems like the only thing he broke was a 12 bolt ring and pinion years back.
 
I have run mine that way for a few years. keep it open and try not to throttle it good when the tires are turned. Yeah like Chris said carry spares. i broke a few at the axle joints.

Its hard on balljoints too.
 
I run a 3/4 ton 10 bolt with upgraded shafts and its welded. No problems with it yet. Also on 37" Krawlers.

I do try and be nice to it when I can. I definately carry spare shafts though, and hubs and ....

OCG1.jpg
 
ive been on mine for about a year now, of more like a monthly warrior but they have done OK and i havent broken anything. 37 MT/R and now the SSR, they have served me well. the only problems are wheel bearings and a rear inner axle seal. i am very concious of tire placement and appropriate floggin. i am open front and LSD in the rear.
i have seen the 1 ton/bigger tire light though and theyre getting replaced.
 
Oatsk5 is on 37Trailreadys BFG's seems to be doing great, Tom Cherry ran 37's for a while, I too was contemplating the move I just now got rid of my 10blt for a locked 44 and I'd still do it after I said I never would.
 
There are a lot of factors involved.....how much throttle, the type of terrain, and some luck. However in my personal experience the combination does not hold up to well. We have a few guys in our club with similiar setups:
1. Ford Bronco on 36" TSL's , stock 400, D44, welded.......broke front stub after first couple of trips, no real rocks just dirt and muddy ruts
2. Chevy Blazer on 37" Boggers, stock TBI 350, D44, locker....I think he broke something everytime out and he never hammered on it.
3. Chevy Blazer on 35" MT/R's (my old setup), stock 6.2, 10-bolt, limited slip....broke two front axleshaft u-joints at different times, no rocks in sight just dirt ruts/ravines and hills
 
Yes I know the 10 bolts arent the best but its whats on the truck for now. Would chromoly shafts make that big of a difference or should I run the tens till they blow or till I can find a reasonable deal on 60 and 14 axle setup? Thanks for all the help so far.
 
i stocked up on replacement parts and kept and eye out for a 60. i just never wheeled hard enough i guess...
 
I run 37" Dick Cepek FC II's on a locked 10b front with stock shafts. No problems, but I drive like the throttle is attached to my wallet.

There are numerous AZ guys that run 1/2 ton fronts with 37+ tires. If you're careful it works fine. If you're impatient and/or a throttle jockey, forget it.
 
I broke both shafts in my truck with 36s and a minispool in the front, flooring it with the wheel turned to lock in sloppy mud trying to turn on a tight trail down a trail so I could pull a toyota up it. My tires were just slipping without the throttle applyed. I ran some of the trails at Uwharrie with this same setup, and had no problems, but I never hammered the throttle hard. I also blew both with bald 38.5s and the minispool trying to rock out of a mud hole once again flooring it with the wheels turned to lock but it took that for about 5 minutes of shockloading before I heard the bangs and stopped moving. I just put a lockrite in it and haven't been out, have 36 inch Hummer tires.
 
ujoints are strongest when theyre straight. check out an old thread i started called "10b action pics" its got good videos in there from some dude hoppin on some rocks.
 
I used to run 38's and now run 37's on a D44 which is nearly the same thing as your 10 bolt. I run often and so far so good. By "downsizing" I dropped 40 Lbs per corner. I now have the same u-joints and ball joints for more than three trips.

Just run them and call it good. If your running open, you'll last a long, long time.
 
If you even think there is a slight chance you will update to a D60 in the future, I wouldn't waste the money on getting bling shafts for a D44 or 10-bolt. Put a good set of Spicer u-joints in the shafts, tack them in place, and buy a couple sets of spares to carry with you.

If you haven't, pull the front end apart at home to practice. Make sure the spindle is free. With the right tools and experience you can swap out a front shaft is 30-40 minutes on the trail.

Something else I think is important, make sure that small roller bearing inside the spindle is in good shape. If it's toast, which is common, it puts more stress on the shaft especially when turned.
 
I went thru 2 sets of MTR 35's on my 10b's with no issues. I was locked in the front and LSD in the back.
I stepped up to 37's locked front and rear and have been wheeling that way for 3 years now. Since I have blown 2 fronts and one rear shaft. I got new rear shafts from ORD for $100/ea, Superior's no problems since.
I just got a yukon kit for the front from Trevor at WFO for about $350. 2 stubs, 1 long, 1 short, 2-760's and most important full clips. I never broke the shafts just lost the cups on the joint and took out the ears. Spares are cheap at the junkyard.
I have an automatic which I think makes a big difference. I also dont romp the stupid pedal much. My driving style is slow and steady. I went with 4.56's hoping that the pinion would stay big enough to not be the weak link.
 
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