383 replacement

[caldreamz]

Hi All,

Also posting this in my restoration thread. Planning to replace engine with a 383 stroker and upgraded transmission. Proposed build sheet looks like the below. Any comments suggestions? Still debating the carb and whether to go Edelbrock, Holley, Sniper, AVS, etc.

350 block 2pc rear main. All machined and clearance for stroke. Durabond cam bearings, plug kit and painted.
Aluminum heads 2.02/1.6 stainless valves, hard seats, bronze guides. Springs are set up for hyd flat tappet camshaft. 0.550 max lift. 110 lb. seat pressure. Installed height at 1.800”. 3/8” screw in rocker studs, 5/16” guide plates. Trick flow hardened pushrods. Heads have been mild ported.
Harland Sharp 1.6” full roller rocker arms
Camshaft is Edelbrock 7102 Performer RPM with matching lifters.
Forged Eagle crankshaft
Forged Eagle H-beam rods bushed for floating pins
Keith Black pistons with Hastings moly rings
Nascar narrowed bearings
Comp cams forged adjustable timing set
Speed shop balancer (ext. balance)
SFI flexplate
Performer RPM Polished Air Gap intake manifold
High flow long water pump
Milodan 6qt oil pan
Aluminum; Tall valve covers, block off plate, timing cover, dipstick, upper and lower pulleys 2 groove on each for option of AC unit and power steering (not included), adjustable water neck
HEI distributor with red hot wires with boots, looms and autolite spark plugs
ARP head bolts and full stainless engine bolt kit

 

[centexk5]

@folkenheath can help you out. He helped me out with my 383 build.

 

[Wes Harden]

I would avoid the 2 piece remain.
Second @folkenheath for information and products

 

[ZooMad75]

I’d go for a Vortec block to get the one piece rear main seal and factory roller lifter capability.


For the cost to build a rowdy small block I wonder if you’ve looked at doing a mild big block to obtain similar or better power levels in less temperamental package.

That also changes accessory drive setups and exhaust so obviously the cost is higher, but even a mild big block will have more torque down low than a stroked small block.

I totally get sticking with a small block though. Tossing options at you.

 

[caldreamz]

Yeah, I thought about an LS conversion too but didn't want to go completely nuts replacing all the various bits and pieces. I guess I just like the small blocks even if it means tweaking it.

 

[Fastereddie]

I will never build another flat tappet engine. Always roller.

 

[folkenheath]

Hi guys, thank you. Sorry guys I was off on vacation in Rocky Mountain National Park with my wife and her family.

I can help get you the parts also if you like.

My feedback...

I like the Edelbrock intakes, but I do not like their cam grinds, I feel like they are old technology. Much better cams for the application than just 2 or 3 options that don't usually fit many applications well.

I agree, go hydraulic roller cam if it fits the budget. A newer block makes it cheaper.

You don't need nascar bearings unless the crank warrants it.

I prefer Callies, then Scat over Eagle for cranks and rods. But they can all work.

KB pistons are great for most street driven NA applications.

For harmonic dampers I recommend you stick with stock GM or go ATI. I don't trust the cheap stuff for such a critical piece.

Harland Sharp makes great rockers.

Go with 1 piece pushrods if you can.