wildmandave
1/2 ton status
Is a 383 worth the money to build or just rebuild the tired 350?
Last edited:
CK5
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383 stroker
- Thread starter wildmandave
- Start date
CGT80
1/2 ton status
it depends on what vehicle it is for. on my 79 pickup i went with a built 383 and had no problems since it is carbed. on my 88 k5 i am hesitant to do a 383 because i am sure i will have to mess with tuning the fuel injection and will need to upgrade a few parts of the fuel system. I am thinking about an 89 454 swap into the 88 and keeping the big block close to stock. A 383 should not cost much more than a 350 rebuild, and the extra cu inches will help the power.
brian at http://www.tbichips.com/tbimods.htm has lots of info and burnt lots of chips for 383 motors.
and 383 is big tourqe monstor.
and 383 is big tourqe monstor.
wildmandave
1/2 ton status
It is carbed. in a 80 blazer
Build the 383! I LOOOOOVVVVVVEEEEEEE mine!
CGT80
1/2 ton status
Go for the 383.
If you have the money, put some good performance parts in it while you are at it. I kind of went all out on mine, but it was worth it. The 383 in my c20 pickup puts the stock 350 in my blazer to shame, and the pickup is loaded with tool boxes, tools, ladder rack, and ladders. I have not driven in a truck with a stock style 383 to compare them.
I used edelbrock aluminum performer heads, with 70cc chambers, since mine were toast. A good set of worked over steel heads are not cheap. My cam is small 204, 214 duration at .050 and 420,442 lift. It has great low end torque but pulls nice to 5000 rpm. I ran roller tipped rockers (couldn't run tall valve covers, so I didn't mess with full rollers), aluminum intake, flat top hypereutectic pistons, estimated 9.6:1 compression, msd ignition, 600cfm carb, tri y headers and 3" exhaust. I had the engine balanced but not blue printed. This combo passes Cali. Smog with no problems. I run my timing at 10 degrees advanced initial and have my mechanical advance set to come in as soon as possible (2500 rpm on the msd chart), with as much advance as the distributor will allow. I do run 91 octane, but I get the same fuel mileage as the old 350 that I pulled out, and I have a heavy foot. 8 mpg normally with Gearvendors overdrive, and 5 mpg towing my 21' toy hauler that probably weighs around 8,000 lbs. I can pull my trailer up a 6% grade at 60mph at full throttle on a warm day. I’m guessing my gross weight is about 15,000 lbs.
About a year ago I was quoted $4,300, from a reputable shop, to build a similar long block 383 for my blazer. In 2003 I paid $2,300 for the short block parts and labor, and the labor to have the heads, intake, water pump, and fuel pump installed (I supplied the top end parts to the builder) for the 383 in my truck. They gave me a 2 year warranty on the engine. I now have 72,000 miles on the engine without any problems.
Hope this gives you some ideas. Good luck.
If you have the money, put some good performance parts in it while you are at it. I kind of went all out on mine, but it was worth it. The 383 in my c20 pickup puts the stock 350 in my blazer to shame, and the pickup is loaded with tool boxes, tools, ladder rack, and ladders. I have not driven in a truck with a stock style 383 to compare them.
I used edelbrock aluminum performer heads, with 70cc chambers, since mine were toast. A good set of worked over steel heads are not cheap. My cam is small 204, 214 duration at .050 and 420,442 lift. It has great low end torque but pulls nice to 5000 rpm. I ran roller tipped rockers (couldn't run tall valve covers, so I didn't mess with full rollers), aluminum intake, flat top hypereutectic pistons, estimated 9.6:1 compression, msd ignition, 600cfm carb, tri y headers and 3" exhaust. I had the engine balanced but not blue printed. This combo passes Cali. Smog with no problems. I run my timing at 10 degrees advanced initial and have my mechanical advance set to come in as soon as possible (2500 rpm on the msd chart), with as much advance as the distributor will allow. I do run 91 octane, but I get the same fuel mileage as the old 350 that I pulled out, and I have a heavy foot. 8 mpg normally with Gearvendors overdrive, and 5 mpg towing my 21' toy hauler that probably weighs around 8,000 lbs. I can pull my trailer up a 6% grade at 60mph at full throttle on a warm day. I’m guessing my gross weight is about 15,000 lbs.
About a year ago I was quoted $4,300, from a reputable shop, to build a similar long block 383 for my blazer. In 2003 I paid $2,300 for the short block parts and labor, and the labor to have the heads, intake, water pump, and fuel pump installed (I supplied the top end parts to the builder) for the 383 in my truck. They gave me a 2 year warranty on the engine. I now have 72,000 miles on the engine without any problems.
Hope this gives you some ideas. Good luck.
383's make tons of torque. Now for the love of god please fix the spelling of "stroker" in your title because it's driving me crazy. 
MTMike
1/2 ton status
383's make tons of torque. Now for the love of god please fix the spelling of "stroker" in your title because it's driving me crazy.
haha. StroCKer? What the hell is a StroCKER?
broncoman6524
1/2 ton status
Build the stroker, search Competition products. They have short blocks for like 1500?
Make sure you build the top end to breathe though, if yuo choke it with stockish heads, you will never reach the full potential of the motor.
Make sure you build the top end to breathe though, if yuo choke it with stockish heads, you will never reach the full potential of the motor.
