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383 Truck Motor

H

Highliner

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Anybody had any experience with the GM Performance 383 Truck Motor? Looking to (maybe) replace a 305 with it. What would I need to add or change for the conversion (radiator, carb, etc.)?
 
Are you refering to the crate 383? I know GM was selling them then they weren't then they were...... Never realy heard of anyone actually getting one..
I think,not sure, but the 305 & 350 use the same bolt on accessories, atl,carb,ps pump. again not sure! anoyone???
383 is a great choice for me cuz all my 350 stuff will bolt right on. I have a block in the garage I plan on building a tourgue monster with
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72K5
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Rock ON!
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All the accessories that you have will bolt up to the 383. You don't really need to do anything as far as radiators go. Just make sure it's in good shape since you'd be pulling it anyway when swapping the motor. You'll need a different fly wheel/flex plate and a new balancer cause a 383 is an externally balance motor. The balancer and fly wheel/flex plate you'll need to ask for will be for a 400 crank. Your intake will bolt up, oil pan, etc. It's just a 350 block.
I've got a 383 (not the GM one) and would do it over again. It runs nice and cool, lots of power, pretty good milage, etc.

<font color=blue>What part of my brilliance do you not understand?</font color=blue>

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You'll love that motor!

What are the specs on it?



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Here are the specs: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&amp;catid=120&amp;pid=465>http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&amp;catid=120&amp;pid=465</a>
 
a 383 stroker is just a 350 block (usually 4 bolt) with areas arround the crank machined out to allow a crank with a larger stroke to spin in there. Most 383s are also .030 bored over. If you have the time, you can order a 383 stroker kit from summit that includes crank, rods, pistons, rings, gaskets, etc... for arround 1000 bucks. Not a bad deal if you've got a block laying arround your house
 
But the machining is what is expensive in building a stroker.

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Actually, to be a true 383, the cylinders have to be bored .030" over. If not, the actual displacement is 377ci.

Ken

<font color=blue>America--Land of the Free, Home of the Brave<font color=black>
 
Here's mine. It hasn't quite made it into the truck yet. I got it from Scoggin-Dickey.
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Be careful about buying a new '383' crank, alot of them are not finished products. Most are straight out of the molds, then when you get them, they have to be taken to a machine shop and have all the finish work done to them.
By the way the main journals on the crank are machined down to fit into the 350 mains, instead of machining out the block's mains to accomodate the 400 crank.

Shoeless
'88 K5
 
I don’t want to sound picky, but the HT383 “truly” gets it cubes with a 3.8” stroke, not a .030 overbore. It’s a sweet roller cammed, 4-bolt main, forged rod and crank, hypereutectic pistoned torque pulling S.O.B. I’m pissed that they pushed the price a grand, but it’s still tough to build one that nice for the price without cutting corners, knowing somebody, or having parts on the shelf. I know I’m gonna catch flack for that statement from everyone, so bring it on. Lets hear all the $800 stroker stories again…. You can slap a Powerhouse or PAW kit in that seasoned block and build a nice motor for less $$… for that matter you can strap a JATO to the back bumper… but neither one will run as well or last as long as that HT383. I think it’s a great choice. Congrats, Highliner!
 
OK, my bad. I didn't know GM had bumped the stroke up a hair (.050") to avoid having to bore the cylinders.
Actually, now that I think some more about this, the HT383 should make a little more torque than a "standard" 383 due to the slightly longer stroke. Of course, it's a difference you could probably only see on a dyno...

Ken

<font color=blue>America--Land of the Free, Home of the Brave<font color=black>
 
You can get an internally balanced 383 kit. I got mine from Super Shops before they closed down. I have well over 150,000 miles on it in my 72. Most of the ones I have seen are externally balanced though.

John

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Yes, Yes, Yes, what can I say, I purchased a GMPP 383 motor and I am absolutely nothing but pleased with it. Orignially the specs offered were325 horsepower and 415 foot pounds of torque. I have added DyonMax headers (the long model for trucks), a Holley 750 4-barrel carb (GMPP will send the Holley intake manifold if requested), a phenolic resin carb spacer (to enhance low-end power), an MSD ignition, 8.8mm plug wires, a 5inch K&amp;N filter and housing, and had the motor tuned by a local racing car &amp; Pikes Peak hillclimb car/truck builder. I need to run premium as the timing is advanced too far for low-end pump gas (the valves slamming shut are really NOT a pleasant sound).
The motor is very strong, especially off the line, and that is with my stock 3:73 gears and 33inch tires.
I was planning on going to 4:11gears but now will wait until I find the right 3/4 or 1 ton axles with the perfect gears already installed.
It's really a project-under-mod but being used as a daily driver too. I can get out there with all the road ragers and keep pace, blow them away, or just cruise and enjoy the show. I prefer the watching as some people make some really stupid moves with their vehicles.
But to end this post, the 383 stroker truck towing motor that GMPP and Scoggins-Dickey sell are very nice motors with lots of low-end balls. They do have a 5,500 rpm redline, but then my motor rarely sees any use above 4,000 rpm.
Oh yeah, it fit perfectly in my aging and rusting '77. I really wanted a 502 RamJet, but then that motor was double the price, plus I would have had to change too much else, and I'm basically lazy. The whole deal ran me just over $3,300, including the motor, extra parts (headers, carb, etc), dual exhaust with Flowmaster 50's, on the road, so it was not way too expensive, especially since the 502 was over $7K for the motor alone.
Good luck with whatever motor you choose.


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