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CaveBlazin

CaveBlazin

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Ok I start the engine building next weekend. I sent the block to the shop and had it clearanced for the crank,bored .030 over, cam bearings installed,freeze plugs installed and hot tanked. Any thing Im forgeting or any suggestions to add before it leaves the Machine shop?? Thanks,
Spence
 
sounds like you got it covered. I'm sure they would have determined if it needed to be line bored or decked or whatever. Though I Guess decking would be a bit of your own preference, doubt you want some outrageous compression though.
 
I assume you had the deck checked and main journals checked, block magna fluxed? Is this a 4-bolt or 2 bolt main? If 2 bolt get it set up for 4-bolt splayed caps. What about the heads? Any work needed there?
Bill
 
Do you already have the pistons? I believe the block should have the bores finish honed to each piston, taking into account the type of material the piston is made of and which rings you will use....

Have you had the rods checked/resized with new bolts installed? Did you go through the heads, checked for flatness?

If you have the decks milled/cleaned up, you may have to get the intake done as well....


CLEAN, CLEAN CLEAN and take your time with reassembly, check and re-check the clearances.

Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Don't forget to get the engine balanced. That is a requirement for a stroker motor. You will need to take the crank, rods, piston, rings, bearings, harmonic balancer and flywheel/flexplate to the machine shop do have this done. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Ok I have a 4 bolt main and I upgraded the bolts on the mains and the rods to ARP. Ok the machinist said it would be 200 to balance as long as my pistons were matched????? What does that mean then he said something about if there not it will have to be externally balanced (I thought it already was gonna be balanced that way). I am getting new valves for the head they are the 1.94 and 1.50 Im pretty sure at least /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Im gonna pocket port them, they have been checked for cracks and there good. Uhh I think thats it unless yall have anything else I should get the block back this weekend (I REALLY REALLY HOPE!!!)
 
A 'matched' set of pistons is where the manufacturer has already gone through the trouble of giving you eight slugs that are already within 2 grams or so of each other.

I thought that whether or not you balanced the rotating assembly depended on which crankshaft you bought.... /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
When they balance, they make sure every piston weighs the same which they should be 1/2 gram from each other. Then they make sure the big and small ends of the rods are within 1/2 gram of each other. They aim for the lightest component and take metal off the others. Then they take the combined weight of the piston and rod (with bearings, rings, and piston pin) and use that for the indexing weights on the crank when they spin it up.
 
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Ok I start the engine building next weekend. I sent the block to the shop and had it clearanced for the crank,bored .030 over, cam bearings installed,freeze plugs installed and hot tanked. Any thing Im forgeting or any suggestions to add before it leaves the Machine shop?? Thanks,
Spence

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Make sure you get your camshaft clearanced too! They may have to take metal off the rods, or you may have to get a small base circle camshaft which also makes you have to get custom pushrods.
 
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Don't forget some cams may hit the rod bolts /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

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I got around that problem by using H-beam rods. Bling!! /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif

356CRS5700B3D.jpg
 
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I thought that whether or not you balanced the rotating assembly depended on which crankshaft you bought.... /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

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It is my understanding that because there are so many different rod and piston combinations available in the aftermarket, a 383 stroker crank cannot be "balanced" from the factory to account for the infinate weight combinations available. The instructions that came with my Scat crank, stated that the rotating assembly MUST be balanced. My crank even required a bit of mallory metal to balance correctly. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Torbo Charger, a little NOS and a six pack for the friends helping you out.......well afterwards anyway. When we are done with yours you can come over and help me. I have quite a large laundry list for the weekend as well.
 
I would send them the whole works, but I see both internal and externally balanced cranks offered for the 400 sbc....

I wonder if the same holds true????

Now, back to our regularly scheduled programming....
 
It is hard to say if the same holds true for 400 cranks. I do know that if I was building an engine where I was mixing aftermarket and factory parts, I would definately have the assembly balanced. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
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