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4 inch lift on k5 ?'s

brans87

brans87

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t flog me guy's as I am kinda new to 4x4 area. I have a 87 K5 with 33x12.50x15 and it rides pretty crappy when you hit holes,go over speed bumps and drives down when braking. I wanna do a 4 inch lift with a combo I have come up with and want to get your feelings and what not on it. I would do 4 in Tuff Country springs in front with DIYX4 rear shackles 4.5, ORD brake lines,Bilstein 5125 shocks,dropped pitman arm not sure who's to use,ORD steering box brace. Not sure what I am missing and if I should should run ORD or DIYX4 greaseable bushing/ bolts.
I want my K5 to sit pretty even and will be adding front and rear bumpers and have a older soft top from a company no longer in business I want to put on to shed wait along with truck tailgate. So go a head and let me know what you think,missing parts etc and school me just don't bash me this is my first 4x4 ever!
 
brans87 said:
t flog me guy's as I am kinda new to 4x4 area. I have a 87 K5 with 33x12.50x15 and it rides pretty crappy when you hit holes,go over speed bumps and drives down when braking. I wanna do a 4 inch lift with a combo I have come up with and want to get your feelings and what not on it. I would do 4 in Tuff Country springs in front with DIYX4 rear shackles 4.5, ORD brake lines,Bilstein 5125 shocks,dropped pitman arm not sure who's to use,ORD steering box brace. Not sure what I am missing and if I should should run ORD or DIYX4 greaseable bushing/ bolts.
I want my K5 to sit pretty even and will be adding front and rear bumpers and have a older soft top from a company no longer in business I want to put on to shed wait along with truck tailgate. So go a head and let me know what you think,missing parts etc and school me just don't bash me this is my first 4x4 ever!
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have a decent idea of what is going on. For 4" youll have to drop the trans case and your already replacing brake lines, so that covers that. Dont forget to extend or replace your Bump stops. I have the greasable bolts, they are nice, some consider them a weak link as they are hollow , but I havent had any issues. The Steering box brace is a MUST.

Also while your monkeying with your truck, might as well do the XJ steering shaft mod. You simply get a 90s model Jeep XJ (cherokee) and swap the steering shafts. I picked mine up for $5bux at the U-pull-it

Just so you know, you dont HAVE to go 4" for 33s. Im running 33 x 12.5 x 15 with 2" rough country springs front and rear and Bilstein 5150s. I did extend my brake lines and bumpstops just because. Also might want to think about dropping the swaybar, trust me, once its gone you wont miss it. Just realize your driving a TRUCK, not a car.
 
badmix said:
Sounds like you have a decent idea of what is going on. For 4" youll have to drop the trans case and your already replacing brake lines, so that covers that. Dont forget to extend or replace your Bump stops. I have the greasable bolts, they are nice, some consider them a weak link as they are hollow , but I havent had any issues. The Steering box brace is a MUST.

.
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Why would you have to drop the tcase?


Also this is 4" and 33 12.50s on the black one

 
raised steering arm or dropped pitman arm for 4 inch lift? Only going TC on springs want decent ride. 4 inches will clear 33's safely if going off road and can always fender trim to fit 35's. Any more input guys?

nice truck by the way dueling!
 
I suppose you could go either way with steering correction. I had a raised steering arm that gave me almost perfect geometry (drag link horizontal). Ran like that for 10 years without a problem before going to 1 tons with x-over. However, removing the old steering arm can bring the suck sometimes.
 
ORD will sell you a complete lift if you want to do one stop shopping.

Martin
 
I would only do 2" or 3" for 33's unless you are going to off road it quite a bit.

Martin
 
X2 on the 2-3" Lift.

I just ordered up the 2.5" from BDS for my 90 K5 on 33's.

-Rob
 
rebelgregory said:
May not have to. Some people have better luck than others. I had to drop mine...until I went CV.
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If you can afford it, CV is the way to go. Dropping the TC just makes the angle on the front shaft worse. You trade one problem for another. That being said, you may not have to do either. I went CV on a 4 inch lift, but I changed axles too.
 
I love how my truck rides with the ORD/tuff country lift, best $800 I've spent on my rig.

The EZs offer a soft ride and flex really well, however if you plan on loading up the front end with a heavy bumper and winch they will sag a little.

I would also go with a dropped pintman arm, I "attempted" to remove the steering arm off my old 10 bolt and gave up after soaking it in penetrating lube, and beating on it with a BFH for an hour, its not worth it.

You cant go wrong with either shackle flip kits, I have purchased many fabbed parts from ORD and DIY4X, both venders offer quality components.

I wasn't as lucky as some and had to drop my tcase, if your concerned about the front driveline angle you could always upgrade to a CV 1 ton front driveline, the 1350 U joints offer a steeper angle of deflection.
 
I have taken off 20+ steering arms, there is a trick to it. There is a sweet spot where you need to hit it with the bfh to pop it loose.
 
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