Dafey
1/2 ton status
Do any of these angles look bad?
Rear
Rear
Rear
Rear
Front
Rear
Rear
Rear
Rear
Front
CK5
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4" lift - Bad angles?
- Thread starter Dafey
- Start date
Dafey
1/2 ton status
One more.Front.
shaun89
1/2 ton status
they do look a little steep, a lot more then usual for only 4" of lift, but maybe its just the pictures.
I don't think they look that bad. I've seen worse.
Is your shaft too short?
Is your shaft too short?
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
your slip yokes are not going to live long being pulled that far out
shaun89
1/2 ton status
o ya...i dont have a lot of experience with 205/203 T cases, but do u have ur rear drive shaft on backwards? seems like the slip will get covered with dirt and wear out real quick down there, ive always seen them up at the T case.
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Thats what Im thinking...Too short for a 4". I think Im going to take the shaft loose and measure how much is left inside.
Would 0 rates help with this?
Its not the angle Im so worried about its the amount left inside the drive shaft.In the rear.The front looks ok dont ya think?
Dafey
1/2 ton status
If I jack up 1 side till the tires off the ground and it DOESNT pop out...am I ok?
Also the rear u-joints are 1yr old..so if one go`s out Ill know the angle is to steep , right?
Also the rear u-joints are 1yr old..so if one go`s out Ill know the angle is to steep , right?
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Ya know.....I have NO idea
Guys , what do ya`ll think?
I was gonna take it off to measure it anyway.SO flipping it would be easy enough.
ANOTHER question , ballpark what would it cost to get it stretched 3-4" ?
shaun89
1/2 ton status
Ya know.....I have NO idea
Guys , what do ya`ll think?
I was gonna take it off to measure it anyway.SO flipping it would be easy enough.
ANOTHER question , ballpark what would it cost to get it stretched 3-4" ?
to make a shaft longer they have to replace the whole driveshaft tube, they cant just add some on, usually about $350...maybe $275 if u get lucky. and you probably should flip it...a lot of my friends have 205s and every one it up at the T case.
shaun89
1/2 ton status
o ya i forgot, you wouldnt need to make the drive shaft 3-4" longer, just make it long enough to make up for the lift, it probably only pulled out about 3/4 to 1" so just adding 1" should do it...or however much you need to add to bring it back to stock "location" on the slip.
Dafey
1/2 ton status
So would a zero rate do it? They move it 1.5"...any reason NOT to move it so far forward?
Lots. Looks, shock mounting, pinion angle ... I seem to remember retubing a shaft being fairly cheap, like $100 or so. Before you go lifting the truck MORE -- especially on one end only -- call your local driveline shop about retubing. As long as your yokes are good, it's just the tube and labor your pay for.
-- A
shaun89
1/2 ton status
ya a zero rate would do it, but if you plan on running any bigger tires it will eat the front of ur panel when you flex. just flex it out and see if you have enough room to move the axle forward an inch. i ate the front of my rear wheel well pretty good with my tires. before adding 2" body lift and moving the rear back 1.5"
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Well Im gonna try what Dremu said,flex it out see if it pops out , then measure how much is left in the shaft if it didnt pop out. THEN call around for a retube job.
SUCK cus right now im totally broke.And I want my truck back , its been at my moms for over a month now!!!!
SUCK cus right now im totally broke.And I want my truck back , its been at my moms for over a month now!!!!
When the splines are showing just a little (like yours are) it can allow dirt past the seal and into the splines which will wear out the splined connection much quicker.
Your driveshafts are probably fine, I highly doubt that the front shaft will fall apart when you flex. If you're worried about dirt getting into the splines, throw a shock boot over the exposed part and grease it often.
As for angles, your angles on the rear look pretty close. That doesn't mean you won't have vibration, I actually had the least vibration by pointing the driveshaft straight at the t-case (I didn't have a CV rear shaft).
If the operating angle of each u-joint is the same, the vibrations caused by each should cancel each other out. The thing is, Spicer specs the maximum operating angle at only a few degrees. Anyone with a lifted K5 is far beyond that, hence why cv shafts are often used to eliminate vibration. Lots of reading on driveshaft and u-joint stuff here.
Drive the truck and see if you have vibrations. If you do, buy an angle finder (cheap at Home Depot or the like) and measure the angle of the pinion yoke, driveshaft and t-case output. Then you can start making changes if you need to. Just like most things on K5's, there are no set in stone rules for what will guarantee no vibration (other than a $$ cv setup).
As for which way the slip part of the shaft goes, the factory put it closer to the t-case. I now have mine pointed the other way to try and avoid this:
It probably wouldn't have saved the driveshaft in that situation but the smaller diameter and thicker wall is harder to hit and dent.
Your driveshafts are probably fine, I highly doubt that the front shaft will fall apart when you flex. If you're worried about dirt getting into the splines, throw a shock boot over the exposed part and grease it often.
As for angles, your angles on the rear look pretty close. That doesn't mean you won't have vibration, I actually had the least vibration by pointing the driveshaft straight at the t-case (I didn't have a CV rear shaft).
If the operating angle of each u-joint is the same, the vibrations caused by each should cancel each other out. The thing is, Spicer specs the maximum operating angle at only a few degrees. Anyone with a lifted K5 is far beyond that, hence why cv shafts are often used to eliminate vibration. Lots of reading on driveshaft and u-joint stuff here.
Drive the truck and see if you have vibrations. If you do, buy an angle finder (cheap at Home Depot or the like) and measure the angle of the pinion yoke, driveshaft and t-case output. Then you can start making changes if you need to. Just like most things on K5's, there are no set in stone rules for what will guarantee no vibration (other than a $$ cv setup).
As for which way the slip part of the shaft goes, the factory put it closer to the t-case. I now have mine pointed the other way to try and avoid this:
It probably wouldn't have saved the driveshaft in that situation but the smaller diameter and thicker wall is harder to hit and dent.
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Well I lifted one corner by the frame till the tire was off the ground. The D/S only slipped out maybe 1". And the Axel only dropped 2 1/2"...? Shouldn't it be a lot more?
Tomorrow Im going to H/D and get an angle gauge. So I HOPE to know the angles by tomorrow night and come back in here hoping someone can help me figure it out..
Tomorrow Im going to H/D and get an angle gauge. So I HOPE to know the angles by tomorrow night and come back in here hoping someone can help me figure it out..
Not necessarily. The shocks prolly limit articulation, and your springs may be stiff (I forget, what springs are you running?) ... also if you're running stock bushings, they don't twist as well as the poly ones (mmm, poly greasable...)
-- A
Dafey
1/2 ton status
2 1/2 just seams so...little drop.Maybe because when I see pics of others with more drop they have flips and longer springs and stuff.
So
1:take off shock and measure again-buy new ones maybe.
2: Buy greasable bushings
3:4" flip
4: find a place to wheel it
Should be 52" with 5 leafs an overload , right.
So
1:take off shock and measure again-buy new ones maybe.
2: Buy greasable bushings
3:4" flip
4: find a place to wheel it
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Hey..who sells steel shims anyway?I wanted to price them,but I cant find anything on google.Or I didnt put in the right info...
