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4" lift exhaust routing.

V

vortec

1/2 ton status
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fort worth, texas
i recently installed a 4" lift on my k5 and just have two things to take care of before it's ready for action. longer brake lines and getting the exhaust out of the front driveshaft's way. i haven't seen pics or detailed descriptions of how you guys modified the exaust to get around the shaft. i'd either clamp a section of pipe in place or go to a shop with the ideas since i don't weld :o.

it's been surprisingly hard to find brake lines anywhere besides 4wp and other overpriced stores.
 
I'm new to this site but I saw in a thread called part numbers where guys found longer brake lines with their part numbers at local parts stores, if that helps any.
Tarey
 
I run a 6" lift, and have no problems with the front driveshaft hitting the y pipe.
Click to expand...

hmmm. maybe mine isn't stock. it was 22 years old when i bought it. i haven't actually tried flexing it out since the lift, but the clearance is so tight that i can't imagine it not hitting. does your shaft go above the pipe? mine does (i've always disliked that).
 
I have the same problem with my 1988 blazer. I had a shop lower the cross pipe. I'm not happy with it, bacause it hangs down so low.
 
yeah, i don't want the hanging down problem. that's what i never liked about the current routing anyway. it looks like going up would bring it really close to stuff that wouldn't like the heat, though.
 
I only lifted mine 3 inches and the front shaft was resting on the top of the pipe at ride height! I think it varies depending on the year of the truck and whether or not it's ever had any exhaust work done on it and by whom.

I have the good fortune of having my rig registered in a county with no emissions testing, so I just had a shop put straight pipes back on both sides. Still running good mufflers and still goes all the way back over the rear axle, so it's not totally trashy, but no crossover pipe. You could do the same thing even with emissions, but you'd have to buy two cats which would get very expensive.

The other thing I thought about doing was just having a shop move the crossover pipe toward the back of the truck (closer to the t-case) just an inch or two so that it would run basically under the front output, allowing the shaft to clear, even at full droop....
 
Oh, and brake lines: I don't have the part numbers handy (but there are a BUNCH of threads on here discussing them) but I just asked for front brake lines for a 1990 chevy pickup (IFS) and compared them to the lines I pulled off the blazer... same fittings on both ends and each was about 4 inches longer! Bingo! Best part? $14.99 each.

They are a slightly different shape and have a metal bracket attached to them, but it's just bent around them...you can unbend (carefully) it with a pair of pliers and a vice and toss it.

Word of warning, I have pretty deep backspacing on my wheels and the longer brake lines were rubbing on the tires, so be sure to check for that after you install them. I solved the problem with some old throttle return springs that keep the lines pulled in off the tire, but still allow full suspension droop.
 
i ask my muffler shop if they have any good pull offs from newer model when some1 went dual...run 2 pipes to muffler w/1 out..i like it
 
get brake lines from ORD they have a pretty good price

for your exaust, find a friend who welds, pick up a 90 ish degree pipe, so that you can kind of hack in place so that the exaust only droops down in the one section for the driveshaft, i did this for my friend and cleaned it up, came out good, he couldnt afford headers / true dual at the time

otherwise get what you need to do headers and a true dual, its the way to go
 
Use brake lines from a 90's something 2wd chevy truck, they are alot longer and only 17 bucks if I remember correctly. As far as exhaust goes don't pay to have the exhaust y pipe extended down. Spend 100 bucks on some summit headers, 35 on an h pipe and 20 bucks in tube. Otherwise you will be spending money twice like I did.
 
I had my local muffler shop make a Y pipe that tucks up really tight near the front of the tranny pan but still allows me to get to the front tranny pan bolts and remove the pan without having to remove the exhaust. I do have a trans temp gauge and it hasn't affected the trans temp at all.
 
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