Anti squat is setting up the geometry so the suspension either lifts or dives under acceleration or braking. You can set it to dive under acceleration, lift under acceleration or simply stay put. A slight bit of lift under acceleration feels more normal. Too much lift isn't a good thing, especially when hill climbing as it'll cause your front end to get light. Some guys who hill climb intentionally set their front to dive on acceleration.
If you've got a link suspension up front and out back you need to keep in mind that the two halves of the suspension will interact. They can either constructively work to lift the whole vehicle or destructively fight against each other. There is a lot involved and it is always a good idea to integrate adjustability to your suspension design so you can change things around after you've built it to fine tune the suspension system.
It'd be a good idea for you to download the 3 or 4 link calculator from Triage to play with some numbers and do some reading on pirate on what the various numbers mean. An improperly designed and constructed suspension can totally ruin the driveability and offroad performance of your vehicle so it is super important to get it right.
Some general rules of thumb for a 3 link front include making your lower front links around 40 - 45" long and keeping them as flat as possible. Your uppers should be around plus or 30% of the length of the lowers to have the driveshaft angles and thrust stay fairly consistent. If they are the same length as the lowers then the angle will remain the same. If your lower links mount at the same place as your front driveshaft starts then the length of the driveshaft will not change. You want at least 8" of vertical separation on the front differential between the lower and upper link mount locations. Keep your lower links mounted as wide as possible on the diff and slightly angle them in on the frame to help reduce the amount of roll steer you'll generate. Your upper link location and angle doesn't matter nearly as much as the lowers, put it somewhere out of the way and where it won't bind when you articulate and steer. Make sure your track bar is the same length and at the same angle as your tie rod to prevent bump steer. Vertical separation doesn't matter between the two.
Before you burn everything in you need to cycle the suspension up and down, articulate it and steer it lock to lock at each stop to make sure nothing hits anywhere. Keep a close eye on your Ackerman angle as well to make sure your steering doesn't have issues later on too. Also keep in mind that despite all your best efforts to set your geometry as best you can, you'll always be limited by where things actually fit. Do your design but don't stress if you can't build it exactly right. Just get it as close as you can.
