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4" or 6"???

joey_sorrells

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Ada, OK
So im about to start building my completely stock 89 jimmy and want to know what the pros and cons of 4'' lift and 6'' lift, which one would be cheaper-easier and which one will give me more bang for the buck???

Advice NEEDED!!!!!!
 
What do you plan to do with the truck? What size tire? Drive it on the street or only rocks/mud? Need some more info. Also if you search around alittle you'll find tons of info on what fits with what size lift.
 
What do you plan to do with the truck? What size tire? Drive it on the street or only rocks/mud? Need some more info. Also if you search around alittle you'll find tons of info on what fits with what size lift.

Yea there's a whole thread showing pictures of what your truck would look like. A 6" might need new driveshafts etc. It depends all on what your wanting to do with it
 
i would like a 35x12.50 and mainly drive around town and go wheelin on the weekends nothin hard core just somthing to have some fun in without spending alot of money.........
 
i would like a 35x12.50 and mainly drive around town and go wheelin on the weekends nothin hard core just somthing to have some fun in without spending alot of money.........


A 4" should be fine for you then. 6" if you don't want/need (rust removal) to trim. A 4" shouldn't need any driveline mods...cutting down on the cost.

Now you need to decide if you want to do a shackle flip or go blocks/springs in the rear.

I'd do springs in the front with a shackle flip in the rear. Maybe you can score some shocks from the Edelbrock sale.
 
ok what all would i need to do a shackle flip and where could i find all the parts for the that type of lift.... ive been looking at the rough country 4'' lift for $475.00 shipped and its springs up front blocks in the back and how do you find out if you have to do drive shaft mods or not?
 
I'd go for the 4 inch lift if I were you because it's cheaper and you don't have to change your brake lines or driveshafts.
 
thanks alot for the help guy just curious though what would i have to do to the drive shafts to make them work with a 6" and how do u know if u really need to?
 
At a 6" lift, the driveshafts are usually not long enough and you'll need to pay ~$100 each to have them lengthened. 6" lifts cause more vibrations, will require longer brake lines, longer shocks, steering corrections, etc.

Generally a 4" lift won't require driveshaft changes, you can relocate the brake lines with cheap brackets (that usually come with the lift kit) and steering corrections aren't quite as required (though still highly recommended).

And more lift doesn't mean more capable, but those are the issues with each.
 
neither..

the more changes you make the more it gets wheeled, the broke..then you need this upgrade and that. You might as well just purchase a car cover and jack stands and set it up in the back yard and just stare at it..this way your still looking at a truck on jack stands but you sent a whole lot less money!


you can thank me latter:haha:
 
I really don't want to do any cutting on the body so would I absolutly have to cut to sqeeze in 35x12.50 with a 4" and would I need a 15x10 wheel or would a 15x8 be fine?
 
I really don't want to do any cutting on the body so would I absolutly have to cut to sqeeze in 35x12.50 with a 4" and would I need a 15x10 wheel or would a 15x8 be fine?

I had 15x10's and 35's ended up rubbing pretty good with my 4in lift. Rubbing bad enough that I fubared a fender wheeling. If you don't want to cut I'd stick with a 33 or add zero rates when you do your lift.
 
I have a 4" with 35s on 16x8 but I don't do crazy flexing. So it works. For now:D
 
I had 15x10's and 35's ended up rubbing pretty good with my 4in lift. Rubbing bad enough that I fubared a fender wheeling. If you don't want to cut I'd stick with a 33 or add zero rates when you do your lift.

What he said. I have 6" TC EZ rides up front, a 4" ORD shackle reversal in the rear with 4" TC EZ rides and a 1" zero rate. I still ripped up the front rear fender when wheeling with 35" tires.
 
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