4 wheel disk low buck mod.. in progress

[BigMac]

So... I like so many have installed a disk break 14 bolt. With the new breaks came poor performance. Very spongy and no real hookup.

I have decided to pull out my praportioning valve completely.. I believe my problems are caused by the praportioning valve. I am hoping thhey are caused by the praportioning valve anyway.. I tied to upgrade my hydrolics to one tone but nothing was compatable..

So after much consideration I decided to make the mod that would most increase the amount of fluid being pumped on the cheapest budget. I just got rained out and am unable to get the breaks blead.... my helper say no way in hell too muddy something ...

Without bleeding anything I already have a much more solid pedle feel.

I'll see if a can talk her into helping when the rain dies down..my helper that is..

/forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

 

[BigMac]

So thats what its like haveing brakes again.

I managed to hire a 25lb. weight to help me bleed the brakes. It is a very slow meathod at best...
My front brakes are not the best o begin with.. they are very glased.. I have new rotors waiting to go on right now..

the brakes are still a bit spongy .. but holy cow. I can actually cause my front suspension to compress again under braking.
Im going to have a buddy help me do a beter bleeding job next week..

All this cost me so far is about 8 bucks. By far the biggest improvment in my brakes yet. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[4X4HIGH]

Martin, I think you are going to have problems by removing your proportioning valve.

 

[jc71355]

Won't that make the rear lock up too quickly/easily?

 

[Chris Demartini]

<font color="blue">I've been thinking of just replacing the factory proportioning valve with a Willwood adjustable valve for each circuit on the master cylinder when I go to regular front calipers instead of the caddy ones. Has anyone done this?

I have the stock 71 master, booster and prop valve with eldorado calipers and I can lock up the rears, but not without a lot of brake dive. I think it would stop better with a little less fluid to the front and a little more to the rear /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[BigMac]

so far the rear dont lock up at all.

 

[BigMac]

maybe. I already had big problems with the valve. I can add a valve inline if necessary.
Its wet out and I cant get the tires locked up. I can actually make my tree strap fall on the floor though /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

So far all I've ost is the dash light that only confirms what your foot is already telling you.

 

[Grim-Reaper]

I just installed Discs this weekend. Truck stops and I can lock the rears but the peddle feels like crap.
How did you bypass the PV?, What size fittings did you need if you did it that way?

 

[Thumper]

Beats me what size I used, but when I yanked my PV, I took it and a chunk of line and sat on the floor in my local NAPA store for 20 minutes trying to fit enough together to make a leakproof setup! The counter clerks were laughing their a$$es off at me, but they are used to me coming in and building stuff off the shelf by now! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Good luck,
Mike

 

[efilnikufecin]

i just read a article in peterson's 4wheel about 4 wheel disc conversions.they say to eliminate the stock PV run the front right off the master cylinder(no PV) and install a after market PV to adjust the pressure to the rears.i have not tried this yet but seems to be a logical solution.

 

[BigMac]

I just cut the end that was plugged into the master cylinders front fitting to the valve.. then I cut the little one off the line out of the valve.. I dropped the larger fitting onto the front line and re-flared the tubing. THe rear lines fitting is the same on the master cylinder as it in on the vlave so it drops right in.

I did have to free up some brake line from the frame..

I cant wait to get a good bleed on these brakes.