CK5
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400 sbc

The word BUDGET is going to go out the window as soon as it goes BOOM. You can't skimp on machine work, etc. Getting a set of factory heads redone costs money, in many cases enough that buying aftermarket becomes a small additional expense.

I've had a 2-bolt 400 block collecting dust for a few years now, I would love to build it, but I refuse to skimp and risk turning it into scrap. If you're going with any sort of performance build at all, the only parts you can safely reuse are the block and crank, and the crank is questionable with anything more than a mild build.

When you look at the cost of headwork, or doing a Vortec retrofit, the prices add up quickly. A set of IK180's is about a grand. If I'm building a motor, I'll spend the extra couple of hundred dollars to make the extra mountain of HP.

Different strokes for different folks, anyone can throw together a time bomb.

As far as FI is concerned, I've done the research, and just adding airflow mods (intake, headers, exhaust, etc.) is enough to throw a factory TBI rig into a lean condition. I've seen the WB 02 readings. That is a risk I'm unwilling to take- especially with the cost of a properly built engine. A WB 02 can be had for what, $200? Cheap insurance.

Realistically, a 350 with good heads will walk all over a 400 with crappy ones, why waste the extra fuel with more cubes?

The only way I've found to save money on an engine build is to find deals on used parts and/or do most of the work yourself- which isn't really possible for most when it comes to machine work.

I don't think it's possible to really build an engine for less than $2000. Unless you're just going to do a quickie rebuild without machine work.

Yes, lots of guys piece stuff together cheaper, but I refuse to cut corners.
 
as for price, yes i know im goina spend over 2 grand, and i have the money sitting here to buy stuff with. im just waiting for the desktop dyno to get here so i can figure out what parts im giona use. like i said, im not using the tbi setup...
 
as far as the crank, would a nodular iron crank be good for 425-450hp and 6000 rpm? the crank says 600hp and 7250rpm, but i want you guys opinions. btw, its a scat 9000 series
 
a dyno is nice but things in the real world run differently. a dyno is in a controlled environment. on the street or trails you deal with load, altitude, gas quality etc.. most of the time alot of extra adjustment to a/f timing etc needs done after the dyno and when it is in the rig. I run a scat forged crank in mine
 
58 apache, what heads did you use? and is that a roller cam? i really want to amost make and exact duplicate of it i watched the video and had to change my underwear :D. very nice. and were they crank numbers or to the wheels?
 
I bought them off ebay whitesperformance. pro comp 195 cc runners 202 160 valves. I had them drill the steam holes for like 50 extra they were like 850 or so. built extremly well. bowl blended good valves 5 angle grind. not a roller cam hyd. comp cam 236/242 516/525 @ .050 110 lobe sep and I got 1;6:1 rockers. roller timing. that was dyno crank numbers. then I changed intake and carb(had a crappy holly) to edelbrock an a few other mods to get it right after install. havny put it on a machine but im not playin a numbers game with anyone. It has plenty of as$. enough to impress most.I'm happy with it and thats all that matters

here is a new video of the loap

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8j7iRsA7D8
 
Nodular will be fine. Check out Ohio Crank, they make some killer rotating assy's for good prices. You can get a complete assy for about a grand. Get it balanced. Scat makes ok stuff too. Realistically, if your current crank checks out OK, it will be sufficient for a street motor build if you use good rods and pistons.

Unless you're going to be racing, keep the build mild, the torque will be what you feel. No need to spin more than 5000 RPM on a street motor, especially in a truck. How often do you really run your engine that fast? Now, how often are you going to when you have twice the HP and Torque that your used to? If you keep the R's down you can get away with much more affordable parts, RPM is where you need the expensive stuff. A built 406 with decent flowing heads is going to run circles around most BBC's. Most people's idea of a "built" motor is a RV cam.

9-9.5:1, IK180's or Vortecs, Performer manifold, good flat tappet cam, and a Q-jet will get you 400/500 (crank) with some tuning. Roller cam is an unnecessary expense, or can be added later.

Call some manufacturers, or better yet, some good engine builders, and talk to them. They do this for a living, and will give you the info you want. The problem that I see and hear most often is people using too big of parts and/or mismatching them. Desktop Dyno works, use it to get an idea of what you want, but be sure to input as much info as possible if you want realistic numbers- that is key. If your budget runs low, do things in stages, you can always change heads or cam later if you must. If there is a place close to you that does it, I would get the thing dynoed- as a baseline tune if nothing else. A chassis dyno would be even better.
 
58 apache, once again very nice. now thats two pair of underwear :bow: :D . btw, what cr are you running in that? pump gas i assume? and bowtiepower00, my machine shop has an engine dyno, already planned on tunning it on that :waytogo:
 
it is 9.78:1 pump gas and a little booster or racing gas. depending where you live and gas quality I would stay around 9.5:1 I had 54cc heads on it for a 10.5:1 it wasnt pump gas friendly with that radical a cam. keep the rps under 5500. engine tuning on a dyno is nice for start up, but you will have to change things once you get it in the rig.. do a a chassy dyno it will benifit you more in "real" life
 
87 Blue Beast said:
so would it still be worth it to use a good roller cam for a few extra horses?

not in my opinion. if you were racing and needed every little bit.. maby. look on ebay and www.racingjunk.com you can find an entire short block machined and balanced and assembled for 2-2500. just bought one for 2200 for a friend. all the good stuff done to it already. your block..even virgin is only worth a couple hundo if that.machine work is expensive. buy a good built and machined short block and you can build the rest in your bedroom!!
 
all this crazy talk in this thread why dont we just talk about 377s or 434s...you wanna talk about some $$$...my buddies 377 ran at 10 grand all day long (no lie big $$$)...it was all ohio rotating assembly...i can second the ohio stuff being good..
 
machine work for me isnt very expensive at all. besides, i dont really need taht much machine work. cost like 100 bux to have it bored .030, like 40 bux to clean, cook, and mag the block, and like 50 to line hone it. thats about the extent of my machine work besides decking, if it needs it. so im lookin at like 300 tops most likely
 
a wise man once told me when i built my first motor...."write down on a piece of paper the cost for all the parts you need,then add them all togher,then multiply times 2 =total for a running motor"...the scary part was he was right...
 
if you wanna talk big $$$$$$$$$ here is a friends drag engine he is selling................80,000 bucks!!!

780 5in Reher Morrison symmetrical port
Light weight intake
All speedtech lightweight NOS system
New never ran dyno time only
Same engine Awesome motorsports runs
1 of 6 made
with spare parts
over 90k invested


1246864247744.jpg
 
58 apache said:
if you wanna talk big $$$$$$$$$ here is a friends drag engine he is selling................80,000 bucks!!!

780 5in Reher Morrison symmetrical port
Light weight intake
All speedtech lightweight NOS system
New never ran dyno time only
Same engine Awesome motorsports runs
1 of 6 made
with spare parts
over 90k invested


1246864247744.jpg

pocket change :D...i do like the dry sump though if the truck was on propane then it could run upside down :eek1:...
 

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