try here
Olds FAQ or here
Mondello Performance
with the faq you have to read all the different sections to get all the info as they dont restate every thing in every section
Joe Mondello was somehow affiliated with olds at some point and knows his stuff, but some of it seems like crap for the money>brains people
403's are ok but the siamesed bores dont like rpm when cold...
somewhere i read about a guy cracking the wall when revving the engine cold
Olds350 diesel mounts would work perfectly, but take the block too!! its the best olds sb block!! you can use it to build a gas motor but you get solid webs and all kinds of cool chit
you will need a BOPC 2WD trans case built with 4WD parts(the best way. or adapter which kind of suck, or just not bolt the top two holes, but this way you'll prob end up cracking the block or trans case
you can use a chevy TBI system or aftermarket by using a later 80's comp controlled distributor
you really want early heads(1,2,3) as porting the AIR bumps on the exhaust port is a PIA, i got 3 ports done on a "Ga" head and said fark it!! just bought another car just for some "C" heads, still cheaper than 1 Edelbrock head.... even with new hard seats, guides, etc.
You want a block that has the higher nickel content(faq has a chart) it makes the block less prone to wear, and better machining surfaces
you want a forged or nodular iron crank, forged should be easy enough to see, but nodular cranks have a giant "N" cast on the #1 weight
the locations for important info are :
engine id is stamped into the oil fill tube about 3" from the top, and usually facing to the front
block ID is on the front of the block to the left of the oil fill tube, you care about the first number it should be 1.25" tall, but take brake cleaner and a rag as this area is a grime catcher. the earlier the number the better
head numbers are on the #1 cyl to the left of the spark plug, if it has a/c on it and blocks you, you can check the #8 cyl, there are casting numbers directly above the #3 & #5 and #2 & #4 exhaust ports but the v/c lip might cover them
if you tear into it before you use it, use acdelco 350 diesel gaskets as they come with steel core rubber oil pan and v/c gaskets, the cheaper ones i've seen are just gas motor cork ones...
dont use gear drives, you have to drill a hole in the main web to mount an idler
either port the oil drain back holes in the rear of the head, or drill and tap the side of the head with NPT fittings and run a line back to the oil pan, if you plan on running at rpm's continuously, as the drain holes suck, it'll hold 1/2 a quart in the head alone...
right now i'm working on a 455 for a caddy, but it might all get stuffed in a burb at some point(with the title-able caddy CDV body, same wheelbase you know....)
