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465 swap trans tunnel issue

formercruiserhead

formercruiserhead

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So 89 k5 blazer originally 700r4. Had the indentation for the cutout for a manual trans. Cut the hole out to fit the shift tower, but couldn't get the trans to line up. Tried it without the bellhousing, with the bellhousing on the trans etc. Ended up cutting a slot to get the clearance to install. My question is i have seen several pics of the 465 in these and the floor looks the same, (minus the slot in the floor) What trick did I miss?
 
Not sure what you missed but on my ‘91 I just cut out the indentation and put it in. I installed the bellhousing first and then the trans. :dunno:
 
nvrenuf said:
Not sure what you missed but on my ‘91 I just cut out the indentation and put it in. I installed the bellhousing first and then the trans. :dunno:
Click to expand...
Tried bellhousing on the block and couldn't get enough clearance to stab the input shaft and clear the tunnel at the sametime. I don't know... So if I weld up the slot and make all pretty again, when I pull the trans out will have to angle the engine waaay down to get the shift tower low enough to clear the floor? Do you have a body lift?
 
I forgot about that, I do have a 1” body lift.
 
Same issue with my '85. I've taken the trans out more times than I care to, and getting it to clear the trans tunnel is pretty much impossible without some force. The lip around the cutout is pretty well banged up. I didn't have to cut any clearance, but a lot of jockeying.

The real trick is to cut the spot welds holding the trans tunnel in place, and replace them with bolts, like was done with the earlier floor pans.

(Edit: BTW, this allows you to use an engine hoist through the cab to lift and drop the trans/t-case)
 
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I did this recently. Converted my Gray Swan to
Manual. I used a 4” hole saw to cut out the indentation, but the shifter post would hit the back side of the rim. So I just widened a little in the back with a plasma cutter.

The boot fits over it just fine.
 
I don’t know if this helps, but I did the swap years ago! 700 to 465, mechanical clutch, ‘89K5!

I don’t remember having issues with figment or clearance! I’ll keep searching for a pic of the hump in place, after swap!

90C6C636-1252-46C9-A8BA-62EAC3465B2D.jpeg 4B73AA3E-4A01-4CB3-AC81-93C0763B76DD.jpeg C020C97E-AD2B-42A5-B2BC-D2A18181C0D1.jpeg
 
MUCH easier with the hump out of the way!
At the time, I was replacing interior! Made the swap a whole lot easier!
 
The shift tower clears fine once the trans is bolted up. It's the issue of trying to get the clutch/input shaft/bell housing all lined up that makes it tough with the tunnel in place. Figure the pressure plate is 3-4" thick? Which means the shift tower is back at least that distance until the input shaft lines up with the clutch.

As shown in your pics, since the shift tower is so tall, it's impossible to line up then go straight forward. You already have to start with the trans angled, and at the point you try to raise it to horizontal with the clutch in the way, you hit the floor pan. It can be done obviously, it's just not anywhere near as easy as it is with the tunnel removed.
 
I had the same issue when I converted my '90 to manual. Cut the stamped part and kept hitting the rear of the hole with the shift tower. I cut another 3/4" or so at the rear of the hole, that was enough to get the trans in.
 
You can do this swap without the body lift of you unbolt the tunnel cover but a 1" body lift I will go right in and more clearance for other maintenance
 
In the late 80’s to 91 tubs the tunnel is bonded in, not bolted.
 
nvrenuf said:
In the late 80’s to 91 tubs the tunnel is bonded in, not bolted.
Click to expand...
Yeah I saw that on udy2554 post. Looks like i need a fresh spot weld cutter. I think for now I will open the back of the hole up some more and weld the slot back together. Not really in the mood to do all that, although will definitely happen the next time.
 
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