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4L60e Torque converter in a Bind

J

jfkelley

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Apr 13, 2019
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Oklahoma City
Before I mated the transmission to the engine I filled the TC up with ATF..I put the torque converter on turned it until it three times until I heard three clunks ..I have no idea how it got in a bind but between installing it on the engine and putting the engine in it binded up ..Put break over bar on harmonic balancer gave it a couple cranks and heard a Dong!! My heart fell into my stomach ..Idk what happen but but TC spins freely now ..hope I didn’t f up anything up ..Like to hear your thoughts on this ? Thanks in advance
 
I just went out and measured from flywheel to TC Tab and got .136..I’m hoping I didn’t break anything ..I read that it needs to be between 0.60-.0.185 ..
 
It may have been the pump ears, or possibly the pilot on converter didn't quite go in the crank pilot hole until you bared the engine. I have broken pump ears on th350. I used a power glide flex plate, and when I was racing this hot Elco down the blvd, the pull just stoped and heard a bang. The PG flex plate didn't put the converter deep enough into the pump, under a hard run it pulled out of the pump and slammed back in breaking the pump ears. New pump gears and torque converter correct flex plate and good to go.
If you did brake the ears, you converter should be ok. and the pump will need repair.
 
I was almost done with the LS swap. I was starting on the fuel system tomorrow ..Now I got to pull the transmission and transfer case.‍♂️
 
if you unbolt the flex plate, push the TC into the pump then wiggle the TC back and forth you should be able to hear it tick as hit the pump gear ears. Try it before you pull it the whole trans.


slight risk, if you want to start it up and check the pressure. If the ears are broken no pressure. Risk would if broken ears debris getting into the oil system
 
Just so I understand pull transmission back , push TC into the pump , wiggle it back and forth and if I hear ticks the ears are broken correct and needs new pump and Ears ? Correct

Or take the chance start it up and check the pressure in the transmission
 
you don't need to to pull the trans back, When unbolted from flex plate the torque converter should move in and out 1/8" or more. It is hard to describe the sound. it should sound like the pump ears are hitting the converter slot on each side as you change directions. this means the pump ears are intact, if you here nothing or crumbly grinding noises then that is bad.
 
One nice thing is that you haven't run it, so if it's broken, the bits are still just sitting in the pump. Also, a 4L60 has a screen on the outlet, which catches all but the finest of debris in the event of a broken pump (although it's probably possible to omit it). If the rings or rotor breaks, the pump can get all chewed up inside. If it's the ears that let go, the motion usually stops so quickly that little other damage can happen.

As said above, it's possible that the pump is intact, but if you drew them together with the bellhousing bolts and the TC wasn't fully seated, running it is high risk. The pump rotor is brittle and pressure can put cracks in it. There are plenty of stories of a newly installed trans working fine, then failing just hours or days later after stressing the pump rotor like this.
 
FYI I should have included this in the original post : The TC was not bolted to the Flex plate when I turned the Engine by using the Break-over bar
 
I have seen Wes' last quote. Guys have asked why they can not align the TC and flex plate, because the TC will not rotate. Sometimes the TC needs to be rotated as you run the transmission the last 3/8 of an inch to the block.

The transmission should slide to the block with no resistance. If you had to pull them together with the bolts, something was not lined up.
 
ktmoutfront said:
I have seen Wes' last quote. Guys have asked why they can not align the TC and flex plate, because the TC will not rotate. Sometimes the TC needs to be rotated as you run the transmission the last 3/8 of an inch to the block.

The transmission should slide to the block with no resistance. If you had to pull them together with the bolts, something was not lined up.
Click to expand...
I didn’t have to pull them together with the bolts… I just got under the truck and moved TC back-and-forth and I could hear some clacks or ticks .. I could see that the pilot bushing was made it to the TC.. I can I shall move the TC up and down minimal.. between last night, Bolt it together and having the .187 gap and going out there and unbolting bolting it there is a bigger gap now between the TC tabs and the flex plate are larger now..‍♂️ I feel like banging my head against the wall
 
Wes Harden said:
you don't need to to pull the trans back, When unbolted from flex plate the torque converter should move in and out 1/8" or more. It is hard to describe the sound. it should sound like the pump ears are hitting the converter slot on each side as you change directions. this means the pump ears are intact, if you here nothing or crumbly grinding noises then that is bad.
Click to expand...
Here is the link to some pics I just took ..Do you think I need spacers ?...The second pic the bolt is barely tighten in


https://imgur.com/URd7qhh


https://imgur.com/fcpIpAc
 
So what is the gap now? It looks huge in the picture. Sometimes they machine the snout shorter during the TC rebuild, but they don't really tell you that. It's not uncommon to need spacers on a rebuild. But if there's that much slack, why was it binding?
 
Add a flat washer to ea bolt between flex plate and torque converter. Make sure they are all the same thickness. Plenty of Chevy trans running around with shimmed TC, mine is.
 
jfkelley said:
I was almost done with the LS swap. I was starting on the fuel system tomorrow ..Now I got to pull the transmission and transfer case.‍♂️
Click to expand...
You have not mentioned what transmission this is. If you are doing an LS swap to an older transmission like a T350, then you need an adapter for the torque converter to engine crankshaft.
 
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