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4l80e crossmember

Keith in CO said:
What are you guys doing for the electronic controller? I know an aftermarket box is available ($$$), but are there junk yard options which actually work, and if so what are they and what is required for install?

Also, has anyone tried to hook up a 203/205 doubler to a 4L80e?
Thanks in advance

just need to find the length needed for the oputput shaft and get a 32 spline 203 and redrill the range box to the round 6 bolt pattern and fill in the other holes and bam done.
 
dyeager535 said:
Yes, good point. It's pretty hard to determine the actual centerline, using the existing bolt holes to calculate is a good idea.

About the controller...if you do a search on this board, you'll find a post where I and others did some research on what existed out there (stock) that might actually work. A stock ECM sure sounds cheaper than the multi-hundreds of dollars the aftermarket controllers cost.



That's exactly what I did. I measured the distance between the exsisting holes to the new crossmember location, and also the distance between the edge of the crossmember on both sides to the edges of the frame rails. It woked out pretty good. I'll take pictures tomorrow hopefully.
 
sandawgk5 said:
For a stand alone controller for the 4l80E if you can find one in a junkyard has to come from a mechanically injected Diesel they were the only ones with a stand alone tranny controller the gasoline engines had the controller built into the ECM.

Ira

I have yet to see someone use a diesel computer to control a 4L80 on a gas engine. Wouldn't the shift points be different since diesels shift at a much lower RPM?

If you're running TBI, you'd be better off running a computer that controls injection and trans.

If you're running carb or aftermarket FI, then you're better off running TCI's setup or do what I'm doing and convert the trans to manual valve body.

On a 4L80, I think the 4wd shaft will work with a long 205 input shaft. The long 205 input shaft sticks out 3.5". The 4l80 4wd shaft sticks out 2 7/8". Advance Adapters and a few other places sells an adapter thats 4 1/4" long and should work but you need a figure 8 NP205.

A 2wd 4l80 has a shaft that sticks out 6.5". In that case, you'd be better off doing something like sweetk30's setup and run that adapter/spacer.
 
Shawn and others interested. After doing alot of research on manual vs. electronically controlled, etc. I have found a product that MIGHT meet SOME of your needs.

4L80E controller

Click on the item marked:
IPT Electro-Matic Manual Controller

There is also a version that allows you to piggyback it on a stock system that switches from full automatic, to fully manual config (although slightly higher price).


This allows the transmission to remain stock (i.e. no need to replace valve body with a manual one) so that if a fully electronic system is used in the future, no mods need to be made. It allows the transmission to be shifted manually without the column shifter (less chance of over/under shifting) and allows manual lockup of the converter.

Again it might not be for everyone, but might help some people out. The price is reasonable (less than TCI controller) and is about the same if you have to buy the ECM, sensors, harness etc (unless you get a steal at the boneyard or scrap vehicle).

Hope this helps.



Shawn said:
I have yet to see someone use a diesel computer to control a 4L80 on a gas engine. Wouldn't the shift points be different since diesels shift at a much lower RPM?

If you're running TBI, you'd be better off running a computer that controls injection and trans.

If you're running carb or aftermarket FI, then you're better off running TCI's setup or do what I'm doing and convert the trans to manual valve body.

On a 4L80, I think the 4wd shaft will work with a long 205 input shaft. The long 205 input shaft sticks out 3.5". The 4l80 4wd shaft sticks out 2 7/8". Advance Adapters and a few other places sells an adapter thats 4 1/4" long and should work but you need a figure 8 NP205.

A 2wd 4l80 has a shaft that sticks out 6.5". In that case, you'd be better off doing something like sweetk30's setup and run that adapter/spacer.
 
Leadfoot said:
Shawn and others interested. After doing alot of research on manual vs. electronically controlled, etc. I have found a product that MIGHT meet SOME of your needs.

4L80E controller

Click on the item marked:
IPT Electro-Matic Manual Controller

There is also a version that allows you to piggyback it on a stock system that switches from full automatic, to fully manual config (although slightly higher price).


This allows the transmission to remain stock (i.e. no need to replace valve body with a manual one) so that if a fully electronic system is used in the future, no mods need to be made. It allows the transmission to be shifted manually without the column shifter (less chance of over/under shifting) and allows manual lockup of the converter.

Again it might not be for everyone, but might help some people out. The price is reasonable (less than TCI controller) and is about the same if you have to buy the ECM, sensors, harness etc (unless you get a steal at the boneyard or scrap vehicle).

Hope this helps.

I saw that controller. Still need to get a GM computer and figure the wiring though. Thats what is appealing about the TCI controller (all wires labeled and easy to install) and the TCI unit runs $660 at Summit and has full adjustability for shift points, line pressure, etc. I just want something that works and is reliable on the trail like the TH400. Whats appealing about the manual valve body is its only $200 (not installed). I will lose the automatic function but for my rig, I don't care since its not my daily. But I won't have to mess with VSS, TPS, and the other stuff the computer needs. Planning on getting a TCI gate shifter.

BTW- I stole the current 4L80e I currently own. My local salvage yard was having a special one weekend where all transmissions were $30. There just happen to be 4L80 sitting in a van waiting to be taken. It was really clean too so I think its been rebuilt already. I couldn't pay them fast enough.
 
Shawn said:
I saw that controller. Still need to get a GM computer and figure the wiring though. Thats what is appealing about the TCI controller (all wires labeled and easy to install) and the TCI unit runs $660 at Summit and has full adjustability for shift points, line pressure, etc. I just want something that works and is reliable on the trail like the TH400. Whats appealing about the manual valve body is its only $200 (not installed). I will lose the automatic function but for my rig, I don't care since its not my daily. But I won't have to mess with VSS, TPS, and the other stuff the computer needs. Planning on getting a TCI gate shifter.

BTW- I stole the current 4L80e I currently own. My local salvage yard was having a special one weekend where all transmissions were $30. There just happen to be 4L80 sitting in a van waiting to be taken. It was really clean too so I think its been rebuilt already. I couldn't pay them fast enough.

When I talked to the tech guys at IPT they said NO computer is needed. There box has the wiring all set to run, and it plugs into the connector(s) on the tranny (you do have to supply keyed 12v and ground). Basically all the system does is energize the correct solenoids to engage/disengage the proper clutches. You use the gear select for Park (to engage the pawl), R, N, D (which allows the use of the original NSBU switch on the column (for those that run one). Once the selector is in D the box takes over. No need to run a computer of any sort. By pushing a button and flipping a switch (for the TC lockup) you select the gear you want/need. Basically you take the place of the computer deciding when a shift should occur. The only thing I did not ask and will the next time I talk to them is if putting the gear selector in a forward gear other than D (i.e. 1,2) will it affect shifting.

The only time you would need a computer with their controller is IF you wanted to run full auto and have the ability to switch to full manual.

I will be calling them shortly again just to verify. Again, not saying it's for everybody, but it does allow a stock tranny to be shifted manually.
 
Leadfoot said:
When I talked to the tech guys at IPT they said NO computer is needed. There box has the wiring all set to run, and it plugs into the connector(s) on the tranny (you do have to supply keyed 12v and ground). Basically all the system does is energize the correct solenoids to engage/disengage the proper clutches. You use the gear select for Park (to engage the pawl), R, N, D (which allows the use of the original NSBU switch on the column (for those that run one). Once the selector is in D the box takes over. No need to run a computer of any sort. By pushing a button and flipping a switch (for the TC lockup) you select the gear you want/need. Basically you take the place of the computer deciding when a shift should occur. The only thing I did not ask and will the next time I talk to them is if putting the gear selector in a forward gear other than D (i.e. 1,2) will it affect shifting.

The only time you would need a computer with their controller is IF you wanted to run full auto and have the ability to switch to full manual.

I will be calling them shortly again just to verify. Again, not saying it's for everybody, but it does allow a stock tranny to be shifted manually.

Let us know on that. I'm curious what happens when you manually shift it and select a different gear or how does it normally shift? When manually shift the trans in first, do you also have to press "1" button. Or do you even need to manually shift it? I'm also curious how quick it would shift between 1st and reverse (in a stuck situation). If you don't need a GM computer then thats another simple way to go.

manual_cont_2.jpg

IPT is now offering a stand alone full manual controller for GM vehicles

The IPT Electro-Matic offers you the ability to shift your automatic like a stick!

With this module, which is mounted in the vehicle cockpit, each gear is selected via a push button and lock- up clutch operation is controlled via a toggle switch- the end user has complete control of all transmission upshifts and downshifts

This controller is ideal for road racing, drag racing and street/strip usage. The IPT Elecrto-Matic is also particularly well suited for applications where a stand alone engine management system with no provision for controlling an automatic transmission is utilized.

Price: $479
 
The mount that I have is toast, anyone know if energy suspension makes a poly one? And part number?
 
WOW blast from the past! Can someone say yay or nay to whether or not this crossmember will fit a 77 K5 with a TH400/NP208 combo? :thumb:

I hope these help out, somehow:

1569trans_rear.JPG


1569trans_mount.jpg


1569mount_nuts.JPG


1569adapter.JPG


Sorry they aren't any better, I just held the camera under the truck and hoped they turned out.

Forgot I went with the goofy shaped crossmember, tried both, liked this one better. They put the trans mount at the same "height" regardless.
 
That crossmember is for a short adapter, it will not fit the tall adapter without major modifications.
 
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