CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

4l80e with no computer

Fwiw, having full pressure shifts w/ a manual VB is no big deal. It's just like engine oil pressure, it's proportionate to the amount of throttle given. I drove a manual VB TH400 in my old K10 for years, shifts were soft with light throttle and hard at WOT. Not unpleasant at all.
You can't compare a hydraulic transmission with an electronic one. You can go manual VB in a "non-electronic" tranny and still have line pressure regulated by throttle position. You could set up the oil pump to deliver pressure based on engine rpm, but that's not really what you want. If a tranny get pressure set by the PCM, you have to replace that with something or you will just have full pressure all the time and BANG shifts.

There is no need for a governer with manual VB since you are choosing the shift points manually. An electronic tranny doesn't need one either, since the PCM already knows vehicle speed and is choosing shift points.
 
Interesting, I wasn't aware the 4l80e created pressure from sources other than the front pump. Shows you what I know about them. :laugh: :p:
 
The secret of getting the manual kit to work is to take it to someone that knows what the **** they are doing! I had a guy with 30 years of tranny experience do the first build. That didn't work (thanks to ORD for the initial test). Took it back to the guy, and he looked over everything and couldn't find the problem. This time I took it to a transmission dyno and had it tested. Same problem. 1st and 2nd were bound up. The dyno/tranny shop tried to fix the original valve body with no luck. After a new valve body and 10 hours of labor later, it works. The valve body has to be modded ALOT to make it work right. The tranny shop with the dyno, saved me time and ATF fluid. I would strongly suggest taking it to place that has a transmission dyno. The place that did it in Denver was Shift Dynamics. Awesome people there!
 
The secret of getting the manual kit to work is to take it to someone that knows what the **** they are doing! I had a guy with 30 years of tranny experience do the first build. That didn't work (thanks to ORD for the initial test). Took it back to the guy, and he looked over everything and couldn't find the problem. This time I took it to a transmission dyno and had it tested. Same problem. 1st and 2nd were bound up. The dyno/tranny shop tried to fix the original valve body with no luck. After a new valve body and 10 hours of labor later, it works. The valve body has to be modded ALOT to make it work right. The tranny shop with the dyno, saved me time and ATF fluid. I would strongly suggest taking it to place that has a transmission dyno. The place that did it in Denver was Shift Dynamics. Awesome people there!

This is a guy that has been dealing with this tranny for three months since it was first discovered that it didn't work. He knows his stuff now.:doah:
 
This is a guy that has been dealing with this tranny for three months since it was first discovered that it didn't work. He knows his stuff now.:doah:

Yeah, he's a real winner... :mad: I had to call him 15 times before he finally answered the phone to get the 4L80 back.

BTW- There's a vacuum modulator on the 4L80 manual kit that regulates line pressure.
 
Yeah, he's a real winner... :mad: I had to call him 15 times before he finally answered the phone to get the 4L80 back.

BTW- There's a vacuum modulator on the 4L80 manual kit that regulates line pressure.

I was refering to you having this new knowledge.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom