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4wd noise

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solace22

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Alright, over the winter I lost two ujoint caps (closest to transfer case). I swapped in a new ujoint and ever since then I get this vibration/noise when in 4 high. Inside the cab it sounds like loose change, gear grinding. Hubs can be unlocked and the same issue happens. It was brought to my attention I should have a double cardan shaft. If I remove the drive shaft I can run around in 4wd without any issues.
However, I can get this sound/vibration to return under one condition in 2wd. I have to be doing 55 mph+ down a steep grade and coasting.
Ive considered just buying a new double cardan shaft and eliminating that from the equation. The distance between the shaft itself and the ujoint caps u bolt is maybe 1/8" and im thinking any drop in the suspension would cause it to touch. So I feel regardless of the cause of this issue this needs addressed. Agree?
There is no slack in the driveshaft, pinion bearing or transfer case yoke and I cant find any damage on the shaft. I have not been offroading to damage anything.
I have 6" lift, np 205, 2" case drop. here is a video with the sound marked in the video.
 
That's the pissed off 205 noise. Only ever had any of mine do that at speed with a non cv front shaft.

6" lift seems to be where a lot of front drive line issues are evident. You will have to cycle the suspension to check clearance
I had to grind the yoke and end of the drive shaft ears for clearance


I'm guessing the tcase and pinion yokes are not parallel. Does it do it with the front shaft out?
 
bent72 said:
That's the pissed off 205 noise. Only ever had any of mine do that at speed with a non cv front shaft.

6" lift seems to be where a lot of front drive line issues are evident. You will have to cycle the suspension to check clearance
I had to grind the yoke and end of the drive shaft ears for clearance


I'm guessing the tcase and pinion yokes are not parallel. Does it do it with the front shaft out?
Click to expand...

Bold- answered in OP.
Sounds like your saying I may as well get a new driveshaft. :D at least someone else has heard this before. Ive talked to alot of people for months and noone has a clue.
 
solace22 said:
Bold- answered in OP.
Sounds like your saying I may as well get a new driveshaft. :D at least someone else has heard this before. Ive talked to alot of people for months and noone has a clue.
Click to expand...
Sorry missed that part.

The noise is the joints moving at a different angle on each end of the shaft.
It will do it sometimes in 2wd if the shaft gets spinning, even if it's not under power. A cv might fix it. Louder pipes and radio help

I'm putting a high pinion in mine to correct the angles and run the joints parallel
 
Take those spacers out, and shim your front and rear axles accordingly. That will eliminate any incorrect angles, then you can work your way forward.
 
454Sub said:
Take those spacers out, and shim your front and rear axles accordingly. That will eliminate any incorrect angles, then you can work your way forward.
Click to expand...
honestly id like to lose the 6" lift and go 4". but its just not in the budget right now.
 
bent72 said:
Sorry missed that part.

The noise is the joints moving at a different angle on each end of the shaft.
It will do it sometimes in 2wd if the shaft gets spinning, even if it's not under power. A cv might fix it. Louder pipes and radio help

I'm putting a high pinion in mine to correct the angles and run the joints parallel
Click to expand...

Bold- this is what I was told by another knowledgeable fellow. the thing is so loud at highway already, the transfer case lever boot aint the greatest so I can see through it in parts doesnt help, no carpet either. :D
 
Yeah I hear ya. Broke the rear shaft on mine last week and had to pull it home with the front. Sounds bad

Dana-spicer has some fun videos out there about drive line dynamics

But I agree with all the above. When you can, 4" lift and no spacers will mitigate much of those issues
 
Been a busy last few days guys sorry for no update but I have a few things to add. We had an event at church where we change peoples oil and stuff for free and it gave me some time to check over the truck with a buddy of mine. he seemed to think it could be the output shaft bearing. But when we tried to find play in the front shaft there was only a little and it was all in the ujoint. so im going to pull that ujoint again and see if there is something up with it. If everything checks out and the issue isnt resolved I was considering buying a new shaft with a double cardan joint. There is some issues with figuring out what will fit though.
So here are the only two designs I can come across and neither seem to be right. Just humor me with this oreilys auto parts stuff okay?
Part 1 - this is what comes on what I think is a 208 transfer case. Its held on with what 4 bolts or something? I would have to remove the nut on the output shaft yoke and take the yoke off and bolt this up in place. Im not 100% that would work. (counter guys suggestion). Im either missing something with this concept or its just not right. maybe im crazy.
Part 2 - This part seemed more inline with what I needed but I dont see how I could bolt it up though, the ujoint caps screw over the shafts ujoint caps and into the yoke on the transfer case. it looks opposite for this shaft. instead it looks like it screws into the driveshaft.
 
Part 1 is a newer style cv "drive flange". Replaces the yoke and uses 4 bolts into the face of the flange.
Depending on yout tcase outpur slpine depends on whay you can use
See fig 6
http://www.4xshaft.com/

Part 2 bolts up to the drive yoke you probably already have.
See fig 5

Not endorsing tom woods, but there is some interesting stuff there.
 
bent72 said:
Part 1 is a newer style cv "drive flange". Replaces the yoke and uses 4 bolts into the face of the flange.
Depending on yout tcase outpur slpine depends on whay you can use
See fig 6
http://www.4xshaft.com/

Part 2 bolts up to the drive yoke you probably already have.
See fig 5

Not endorsing tom woods, but there is some interesting stuff there.
Click to expand...

oh yeah that helps alot. seems like I would need yoke to yoke then, huh?
 
That is the easiest replacement.

I would do a lot of measuring and look what else on the truck you want to address before buying a new front shaft.

I want to look at the front output bearing on mine, it rattles like yours. I also want to change the joints

If you pull the shaft to look at the top joint, I would likely change both joints. But that's me
 
bent72 said:
That is the easiest replacement.

I would do a lot of measuring and look what else on the truck you want to address before buying a new front shaft.

I want to look at the front output bearing on mine, it rattles like yours. I also want to change the joints

If you pull the shaft to look at the top joint, I would likely change both joints. But that's me
Click to expand...

Okay now its all making sense. The top joint was the one that got changed over the winter but its also the one showing some slack.
As far as stuff I want to get done to the truck... Ive got a list but 4wd working is important to me.
axle shaft ujoints, rear axle spindles are leaking (thats a whole other thread), would like to get A/C working, I know it needs at least a compressor for that.
I was going to give some TLC to the 700r4, a cooler, deeper pan, temp gauge etc.
Flush radiator and just go ahead and replace the water pump and clean some things up on the engine itself.
Spark plugs... on and on you know how it goes...

If I do this new shaft should I remove transfer case drop and try and get a shaft I can run without it or just leave it all alone since the rear end is fine angle wise.
 
If it were mine, I'd be checking how much angle difference from the face of the t case out put vs the shaft.
Likely, adding the drop created a negative angle for the t case, making it harder on the joint, so it looks:
\
And the axle
|

Removing the drop changes the angle at the yoke, but also moves the t case up, which adds angle on the shaft.

If you are planning at some point to go to 4" lift, pulling the case drop then would be good.
Unless you want to rework a new shaft when you do that, I might just change the joints now.
 
bent72 said:
If it were mine, I'd be checking how much angle difference from the face of the t case out put vs the shaft.
Likely, adding the drop created a negative angle for the t case, making it harder on the joint, so it looks:
\
And the axle
|

Removing the drop changes the angle at the yoke, but also moves the t case up, which adds angle on the shaft.

If you are planning at some point to go to 4" lift, pulling the case drop then would be good.
Unless you want to rework a new shaft when you do that, I might just change the joints now.
Click to expand...


Well im def going to pull the shaft and replace that top ujoint again, probably the bottom one too. All this might just be that ujoint after all. Fingers crossed, I can save some cash in the K5 project jar.
If I just cant make it work ill have to drop the coin for a new shaft and ill just go the tom woods route.
 
Yep. Just didn't want you to replace the shaft, change the truck, and build another. Hopefully changing the joint will be okay for however much you use the front until then
 
bent72 said:
Yep. Just didn't want you to replace the shaft, change the truck, and build another. Hopefully changing the joint will be okay for however much you use the front until then
Click to expand...

got the shaft back out, pulled ujoint. all the bearings were there nothing crazy. Got a new ujoint (different brand altogether) Ill try and put it in tonight when the kids go to bed. I cant see anything wrong with the t-case yoke, im gonna clean it all up though.
My wife is out of town until sometime tomorrow so we'll see sometime then what I get with the new one... fingers crossed.
 
I'd get rid of the 2" transfer case drop. That sounds like a lot to me. I've had a few lifted chevys and never done more than an inch at the most.
 
Truckman4life said:
I'd get rid of the 2" transfer case drop. That sounds like a lot to me. I've had a few lifted chevys and never done more than an inch at the most.
Click to expand...
I dont think the front shaft could handle it without a double cardan in there at least.
 
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