Well if both tire on the same axle have the same traction then you are in the best shape you could hope for, unless the amount of traction is none, haha. As far as a cheap traction control device goes, I believe you get what you pay for. If you can weld you can lock up both your axles for pennies, but they will be permanently locked. YOu can put in a mini spool for around $100-$150, which is effectively the same as welding the diff, but it can be removed and it won't instantly yield your carrier, or spider gears unusable, should you decide you don't want it locked. Limited slip can be nice if you don't have a real need for the axles to be locked, and they can be setup to be almost locked. All in all it depends mostly on what you intend on using your rig for. For examples of different situations you could do a search on this board and find oodles of great discussion that should help you make your mind up. If your only doing mud, it still depends on your driving habits, motor, size of tires you will likely run, and the type of mud (how deep, thick, rutted etc. etc.) Another minor, usually overlooked factor, to consider is if you drink while mudding. I know I personnaly get quite a bit braver and aggressive if I consume an alcoholic beverage or nine. If you are the anal retentive type that is deathly afraid of breaking something on your rig when you wheel you will likely be more apt to be kind to your equip and thus less preperation/upgrading will be necessary. My suggestion would be to play like it is and if something breaks, upgrade it. If you find yourself getting stuck alot, then worry about a locking device. If your fairly new to wheeling, experiment and then base your buildup of you rig on what you've discovered. Forecasting isn't always the best way to build a rig. Good luck and I hope this essay helps. Got any more questions, post em.
