4x4/Front End/T-Case Problems

[xdelirious45x]

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I recently purchased a 88 chevy k5 blazer TBI, 4 spd. I put on 33" tires with different size rims with the stock height, no lift. I have been rebuilding this thing for about 3 months now. I was going to put on new heads over the weekend and I came into this problem.

I put the truck in 4wd and put it in 1st and drove about 40 ft and it started making weird noises. Also, I noticed that the front axles are having a very hard time turning. I'm wondering if this is b/c of the rims. The wheel weights rub against the A arm that connects to the steering arm. However, when changing my brake pads, I did not put it in 4wd. Could either of these be the problem?
Could the transfer case have something to do with this?
Would checking the fluid in the front diff be a start?

ANY OPINIONS OR STATEMENTS WOULD BE APPRECIATED!

Dont Worry I Have Faith In Chevy's
[email protected]
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[motofool]

well wheel weights rubbing would be a problem yes..

we need to know if you have a np203 a no208 or what transfer case you have.

you might want to pull the diff cover and see if everything is okay in the differential.

 

[BlazerGuy]

What kind of road where you driving on? You can't use 4WD on pavement, or it will bind. What kind of hubs do you have, manual or auto?

 

[dremu]

If you're driving on dry pavement in 4WD, yeah, it's gonna be unhappy. The part time systems don't have a front-to-back differential to account for the different distances travelled by the tires in turns, so the tires chirp on dry pavement. 4WD on these is meant for loose non-pavement situations where slip occurs; if you continue to drive on dry pavement, you'll bind the drivetrain and eventually break something.

In a truck of that vintage I'd be suspicious of the automatic hubs, if still equipped with them. They're notorious for failing; maybe yours failed by staying closed (there's a novelty).

1. Yes, drain & replace fluid up front. And in the back. And the transfer case. And the engine, radiator, tranny... When I first buy a truck, I change every fluid in the damn thing, so I know it's got the right stuff at the right levels and it's fresh.

2. If you have the automatic hubs, remove them and use them as paperweights. Replace them with Warn manuals (I prefer the Premiums, a bit more $$, but more metal and less plastic than the regulars.)

3. Read up on your part-time 4WD and go find a gravel road or some mud or something slippery to play in. I'm a hands-on learner so it took some good sliding around on gravel 'fore I figgered out how it all works.

-- A

 

[xdelirious45x]

I have automatic locking hubs, Im not sure what kind of transfer case I have I'll get back to you on that. We'll, I started off driving on pavement but that was b/c i was goin onto dirt about 5 feet away. When I was on the dirt, it did the same thing.

 

[BlazerGuy]

Throw the autos in the trash. What size wheels are you runnin'?

 

[xdelirious45x]

33x12.5xR15

15" wheels?

But I dont know if they are suppose to be for my truck, because I have to use MAG Self Centering Lug Nuts because the Lug stems do not extend outside the wheels. The inner wheel weights only rub in the front. But basically, from driving they dont rub anymore because they got grinded down by themselves. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

I appreciate all the help.

Thank you

 

[pauly383]

Please go sell those rims and get a set for your truck. Use factory acorn lug nuts . That would be one less problem. There should be plenty of clearance with stock or similar sized aftermarket wheels. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[K5Jimmy]

[ QUOTE ]
If you're driving on dry pavement in 4WD, yeah, it's gonna be unhappy. The part time systems don't have a front-to-back differential to account for the different distances travelled by the tires in turns, so the tires chirp on dry pavement. 4WD on these is meant for loose non-pavement situations where slip occurs; if you continue to drive on dry pavement, you'll bind the drivetrain and eventually break something.

[/ QUOTE ]

I would agree IF you had Full Lockers at both ends, and HiLoc @ the TC....

this sounds more to me like a gear ratio mismatch.....front ratio don't match the rear....different size tires f/r would accomplish the same thing ...say 31" front, and 33" rear for example....

a front locker on pavement is a problem....lotsa guys here run rear Detroits on their DD...

I've driven my 89 long distances in 4wd w/hubs locked with nary a whimper....10b/12b with Auburn Pro at both ends... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif