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5.3 to 700r4 question.

shady

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I want to start colecting parts and info for my own 5.3 swap in the near future. I have been following some other 5.3 swaps on here but everybody is using the 4l60e. I would like to stay with my current 700r4 for now due to the $$$. My question is,, Is it possible to hook up the TV cable correctly or do I have to redo the 700r4 in some way to eliminate it? I would like to stay with a fly by CABLE type 5.3. so I figuerd I could hook it to that some how. :dunno: Just getting a feel for this right now. hope to pick up some thing at tax time to get the ball rolling. probably not the motor, but some things at least to start the motivation:rolleyes:

Edit; when you search for 5.3 on here Nothing is found?
 
subscribed for the same reasons. And I thought that I couldn't put the right info into the search to pull anything, glad it happened to you too!
 
Get ahold of RyanB on here (not sure how often he's on here anymore) but he has first hand knowledge of these swaps and has done several using both a SM465 and an auto trans. Not sure if he's ever done one with a 700R4/4L60 but i'll bet he knows what you need to know.
 
Edit; when you search for 5.3 on here Nothing is found?
most forum searches require at least 3 characters in order to return anything in order to cut down on search times. the "." doesn't count. :doah:
 
subscribed for the same reasons. And I thought that I couldn't put the right info into the search to pull anything, glad it happened to you too!

I started with (5.3 700r4) then went with just 5.3, Nothing:doah:

Get ahold of RyanB on here (not sure how often he's on here anymore) but he has first hand knowledge of these swaps and has done several using both a SM465 and an auto trans. Not sure if he's ever done one with a 700R4/4L60 but i'll bet he knows what you need to know.

I'll search for that name and see. It'll be a while before I can do this. I'm sure SOMEbodies done it though
 
Save your cash and go with a newer trans. adjustments are made easier on the computer than through a TV cable.
 
I hope I can get a tranny also but if im doing a tranny I'm going with the 4l80 in stead of the 60. otherwise theres no point.
 
Check out BD Turnkey Engines over on pirate in the vender list. He is very knowledgeable. I am having the same problem. I have done some reserch on this and have found that a 4L80E never came behind a 5.3 so the harness would have to be re worked but it can be done. It might be better to find an LQ4 with 4L80E. People I have talked to said the newer tranny will be much more efficient than an older one that doesn't know what the engine is doing. Also there is a small issue with the torque converter to flexplate.
 
I was going to get ahold of these guys for the motor maybe. Its cheaper than the other guy and comes set up the same way. I thought some of the 3/4 tons had 5.3 /4l80e:dunno: Guess i was wrong there. still want something stronger for possible future motor upgrades:rolleyes:
 
I like that link:waytogo: Thats pretty much what I was looking for
 
Ls 700r4

I did the ls 5.3 with 700r 4. Not hard did my homework an read almost evey1 post or threads about. Thank you by the way.... There is only 1 thing that's got me puzzled. I have a 5.3 newly redone 700r4. Texas speed stage 1 cam Valle spring new push rods , TV made ezeay cable from bow tie over drives, 488 gear 36 tires long tube headers with 3" exhaust threw flow master mufflers.
At 65mph I am only at 1200 rpms. Not sure if it's the tune or the gear or what. Any help
 
I did the ls 5.3 with 700r 4. Not hard did my homework an read almost evey1 post or threads about. Thank you by the way.... There is only 1 thing that's got me puzzled. I have a 5.3 newly redone 700r4. Texas speed stage 1 cam Valle spring new push rods , TV made ezeay cable from bow tie over drives, 488 gear 36 tires long tube headers with 3" exhaust threw flow master mufflers.
At 65mph I am only at 1200 rpms. Not sure if it's the tune or the gear or what. Any help

Engine RPM is the result of gearing. When cruising, your torque converter will lock up, which reduces your RPM further. That does seem a bit low, especially since a 4.88 is relatively aggressive gearing for that tire size. You should be over 2000 at that speed, taking into account a 36 inch tire, 4.88 gear, and 0.7:1 OD ratio. At 1200 RPM with that setup, you're likely only going about 37 mph. Did you correct the transfer case speedometer gear for the lower gear ratio and bigger tires? If not, you're actually no where near 65 mph and that would explain the lower RPM. For instance, when I went from a 3.08 to a 4.10 and from 31 to 33 inch tires, my speedometer read high by about 24%. Did they change gear ratios in the transmission when it was redone? Are you sure about your axle ratios and tire sizes? Another potential issue is how you are measuring RPM. If I recall, on the newer GM motors if you're using an aftermarket tachometer, I think you have to set it to 4 cyl mode to get an accurate reading from the ignition system.
 
Speedo is 5 mph off. As I have a speedo on my phone with GPS an a Co worker aside me in stock vehicle. An a Matco scanner reading the rpms, as well as tax in cab tranny was just redone with standard stuff except for rv shift kit. If I do the math with final drive .70 an 488 with 36 inch tires should be 21oo ish. I am wondering if torque man. Stuff is set wrong
 
Speedo is 5 mph off. As I have a speedo on my phone with GPS an a Co worker aside me in stock vehicle. An a Matco scanner reading the rpms, as well as tax in cab tranny was just redone with standard stuff except for rv shift kit. If I do the math with final drive .70 an 488 with 36 inch tires should be 21oo ish. I am wondering if torque man. Stuff is set wrong

Should not be able to make a difference. Gearing is gearing, no matter what your tune says. If your T/C is locked up, you have no other engine speed choices. :dunno:

You're saying the 2 different tachs agree on your engine speed, and it still doesn't come close to matching the math? This is puzzling. :thinking:
 
Rpm

Just talked to person who tuned ecm. I did not tell him what vss device I was using an the signal is set up for 128,00 rpm. Instead of 8rpm. Would that do it?
 
Just talked to person who tuned ecm. I did not tell him what vss device I was using an the signal is set up for 128,00 rpm. Instead of 8rpm. Would that do it?

VSS if I recall only measures speed information, not RPM, and you said the speedo was relatively accurate. Another way you could verify is hook up a timing light with an RPM readout to the number one cylinder. That will tell you your actual RPM since it's based on the number of times the spark plug fires. It's definitely an issue in how RPM is being measured, since as said before actual RPM is determined by speed and gear ratios. Like I said, make sure your tach measurement is setup for two-pulse per revolution if you are using the factory tach output on LS style motors.
 
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