CK5
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5.3L long block

are the lifter trays plastic or metal? I saw that the LS7 lifters can be used back in the vortec 5.7, lt1 5.7 and my old tbi motors with the factory castings for the roller cam spider... most of them are sold as sets with the LS7 trays
The ones that I have seen, and what I purchased, are plastic. I got some Delco ones from Rockauto.
 
hmm.. the tbi, vortec 350, and lt1 motors used hardened metal dog bones, and a spring steel spider thing to hold them down to the block. wonder if those would swap into an LS? prob not.
 
hmm.. the tbi, vortec 350, and lt1 motors used hardened metal dog bones, and a spring steel spider thing to hold them down to the block. wonder if those would swap into an LS? prob not.
I doubt it, and I don't really see the need. We have a 4.8 V8 here in an '01 which has over 300K on it. As far as I new, it never had any reason to pull that heads when it was a company truck. We are possibly going to pull the engine soon for a 5.3 due to this 2nd 4L60E having a convertor failure.
So why not pull everything apart, right?? :D
 
She and the family okay? Doesn't look too bad to cause her harm, so hoping for the best.
Nope, no injuries thankfully. But prices for these things are crazy. I’m glad I didn’t put a $7k motor in it. People are selling them for $4k with over 250k miles on them. Maybe I’ll fix the body damage in this and sell it without overhauling the motor.

I see a slightly newer one on craigslist for $10k. It seems nuts when I paid $3400 for the one I have (with 250k miles) 5 years ago.
 
Glad that she's ok. I as well didn't think that looked bad enough to cause injuries.

Hard to tell how many parts are going to be needed to fix it, of course. But it used to be easy to get body parts here because people weren't fixing them when the transmission died, so they got parted out often. The market has changed some, it will be interesting to see what it takes for you to find the parts. Should be easy to find in that color.
 
Nope, no injuries thankfully. But prices for these things are crazy. I’m glad I didn’t put a $7k motor in it. People are selling them for $4k with over 250k miles on them. Maybe I’ll fix the body damage in this and sell it without overhauling the motor.

I see a slightly newer one on craigslist for $10k. It seems nuts when I paid $3400 for the one I have (with 250k miles) 5 years ago.
The guy selling a 2007 for $10k just backed out. It figures.
 
Got the front fenders replaced along with the grill. Once I confirmed there was no frame damage and all the body parts lined up, step 2 came around and motor is out. That was way harder than the k5. Had to buy a variety of wobble joints, sockets, and breaker bars to get at all the bolts.

AAEE0567-688D-49E3-97FA-21C77E7E4F15.jpeg

Only hiccup was I forgot this is an automatic and when I unbolted the bell housing and tried to pull the motor free, it wouldn’t budge. Once I realized the torque converter was still bolted down, that required 4 trips to the hardware store to pickup more tools. And this one is after a good pressure washing. image.jpg
 
The 2nd and 3rd times that you pull one are far easier.

I recommend opening it up quickly to check and eliminate any water that may have gotten in. You probably have already done this, though. When I washed my LQ9, I was surprised how much water made it in. The valve covers weren't leaking oil terribly, but they let in a good amount of water.
 
The 2nd and 3rd times that you pull one are far easier.

I recommend opening it up quickly to check and eliminate any water that may have gotten in. You probably have already done this, though. When I washed my LQ9, I was surprised how much water made it in. The valve covers weren't leaking oil terribly, but they let in a good amount of water.
That’s on the list for tomorrow. I stuffed paper towels and aluminum foil in the ports to try and stop too much water from getting in the intake but a few of those let lots in. Will get the heads off and inspect the gaskets and find a big bucket to fill with solvent for cleaning.
 
Got it broke down to short block. I had my son do most of the work with me occasionally going out there to advise. About 1/2 the lifters on the drivers side were tough to get out. Assuming that was what was making noise.

And I’m pleased to still see cross hatching on the cylinder walls. So I hope I can get away with just a good cleaning and new rings. Though I don’t see where my coolant was going as the head gaskets were in great shape. Any good DIY options for cleaning the block? Last time I got a lot of “purple power” in a spray bottle and scrubbed forever. 07712A4C-C3EE-4EDE-818D-54FAA9E86655.jpeg620B1AA8-8D01-49A0-A768-124B6B4015DE.jpeg
 
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Is that one of the motors that had casting issues with the heads? Seen a few that loose coolant that way.
 
Yup, these blocks seem to hold onto the cross hatch for a very long time.

Have you ever tried oven cleaner? I have no flipping clue if it works personally. I just know that some talk like it works.
 

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