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5.9 CTD and 4L80E??

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90blzr

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Can these work together? I am working on getting some parts together for the CTD swap into my '91 crewcab 4x4. My Crew Cab came with the 4L80E/NP205 combo and I'd like to stick with it if at all possible.
Oh and the engine would be from a '94.
What are my options?
Thanks!
 
The 4L80E should fit. You'll just need to get an adapter. Cummins makes an adapter, but that might be expensive. A cheaper route is to find a used Weber bread truck or somebody that is parting one out. These adapters sometimes come up on ebay. Might even try finding the Weber maintenace facility for your area and see if they sell used parts.

You'll need a stand alone computer for the 4L80E. TCI and some other aftermarket companies make them.
 
90blzr said:
Can these work together? I am working on getting some parts together for the CTD swap into my '91 crewcab 4x4. My Crew Cab came with the 4L80E/NP205 combo and I'd like to stick with it if at all possible.
Oh and the engine would be from a '94.
What are my options?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Will they work together...Yes. Anything is possible with time and money. There are adapters made to put a CTD in a Chevy. The question is will the 4l80E handle the torque. The 4l80E is a stout tranny and works well (tow/haul feature), but GM won't put it behind the Duramax in stock form. I would assume you might find that it will not live long behind a CTD especially if you are going to do heavy towing (which is why I'm assuming you are doing the swap). Not that you can't do it or shouldn't, but it might be a large headache down the road for you.
 
On the stand alone computer for the 4L80E, is your truck a gas motor or diesel originally? The 1991 Crewcabs with factory diesels would have had the stand alone computer for the 4L80E already, gas models however would be tied into the motor TBI.
 
Alot of the pros/cons are covered at the top of the diesel forum.

One thing to consider is you can get a 47RE/RH with a warranty that will exceed 1000lb/ft of torque. IIRC the JET 4L80E is rated at 700lb/ft of tq. Can you get the trans(assuming it was an auto) from the '94? It should be a 47RH for the year.
 
The tranny is cracked, and I cant remember if its an auto or not.
And it is a 2wd truck. I assumed it didnt matter if the motor came from a 2wd or 4wd?
 
I thought the "80" in 4L80E meant good for 800 lb. ft. of TQ. If that was the case, I wouldnt hesitate to put it behind a CTD. In fact I've thought of this myself. What kind of torque converter would be needed? I know on the TH400/ CTD you need a lockup converter but thats about all I know.
 
afroman006 said:
I thought the "80" in 4L80E meant good for 800 lb. ft. of TQ.
Click to expand...

Nope, not the case. If that was true a 700R4(4l60) would be rated at 600lb/ft and good behind a duramax:haha: !

4=forward gears
L=longitudinal(SP?), T- means transverse
40-60-80etc is torque rating/percent, can't recall exact wording anymore
E=electronic control.
 
mike... get the dodge 4 by tranny... theres no cheap shortcut here... skip the bread truck route for all the reasons we talked about.... the deal for the truck is smokin regardless if its a 2 by....

check if the computer is the same for the 2by and 4 by trucks... I dont know but one would think so
um...Ill trade you a th400 205 for it if you dont want it... and Ill throw in some new shocks too :)

Im so jealous....
cam
 
I would get the dodge 47RE or RH tranny instead. It is easily a lot stronger than the 4L80E with just an aftermarket converter and valve body. I would bet that a 4L80 would do ok with that 6BT cummins stock (175HP/420ft lbs stock IIRC) but it would be hard not to just turn the pump up, add aftermarket injectors, a fuel plate, and completely shread the 4L80 as the end product. :crazy:
 
Talked with him again last night....it is a stick shift truck...which from what I have read has a little more power than the auto version:grin: Going over there tonight!

So I guess I need to start searchin for a dodge tranny huh? No hurry...I am sure the right deal will come along.

And HOPEFULLY the engine was not damaged in the wreck. The only way from the description that it could possible be damaged is if the tranny somehow bused the block...which is HIGHLY unlikely! It was hit from the side and the tranny cracked. Pretty hard impact.
 
The manual rigs are slightly more powerfull but in a drag race the auto will win easily. With a TD the turbo has to spool up to produce boost, with a manual everytime you shift you have to respool the turbo. With an auto once you put your foot into it and the turbo spools up it stays producing boost until you take your foot out of it. That is why there are no manuals in the DHRA, only autos.
 
Will be interesting to find out what actually broke:thinking: . Was it the aluminum end housing/bellhousing or motorplate? The trans case is cast iron so I'd thing one of the aluminum compontents would give first.


Hmm, wanna sell the pedal assembly?
I have a bellhousing, new clutch and flywheel for a NV4500. Never did use in a conversion and have considered converting my truck to a 5sp:thinking: .

Maybe I need to to cost comparision on upgrading my 48RE Vs NV4500.
 
Something tells me he wants to do this swap to tow, not to drag race. I think that the DHRA uses autos is a mute point.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. Well I went and looked at the truck last night. The guy hadnt looked at it very close. I didnt get there until after dark which sucked, frickin traffic. Not a straight panel on the truck! It was hit good. jetta went right UNDER the drivers side and if you are looking at it from above, it looks like this ) :yikes:
Guy was cool as hell. Gave me some tools to get the hood open etc.

Everything was broken at the mounts. The tranny was busted at the VERY end where the tranny bolted to the crossmember. When the crossmember buckled, I guess it pulled it down and it just busted. Not sure, but it looks as if you could just replace that end housing where the 6 (or so) bolts are. Its just that end piece. Otherwise, the tranny looked fine. All of the bolts where it bolts to the engine were all fine. It was only at that tail piece it was broken.

The is engine was sitting in the engine bay kind of crooked. I looked down at the mounts and I was like DAMN!!! the engine is cracked...then I got a better look. The motor mount cracked, NOT the engine. The mount is still bolted to the block:cool1: It cracked right where it meats the motor mount goes and meets rubber part that attaches to the frame.

Oil looked GREAT. New filter, etc. The guy said he has owned it since it had 17K on it and his dad planned on getting a million miles out of it, so it was taken care of....his words were 'you know how old people drive'

It did have the 'normal' oil residue on the oil pan, etc...but I guess that can be expected with 200K on it?

Everything in the engine compartment was in tact and all there. the engine was sitting a little crooked from the broken mounts.

All of the wiring looks great, even under the dash...it didnt get hit where the wiring was.
He said to think about it and he wont do anyting with it until he hears from me by Friday (it was late and he wanted to go to bed:grin: ).
So watcha think? From the searching I've done, it sounds like anytime you can get the whole truck, its worth it alone, even if the truck is totalled this bad?

As far as doing the swap....yeah, not to drag race...at least not alot:grin: . Seriously, mileage, torque, towing ability etc. All of it. I'm not gonna be towing ALL the time, but it will be nice when I need to. Seems I am always hauling one thing or another. A BBC is nice, but it will break you at the pump everytime. 5-6mpg aint cheap. Crew Cab will be lifted, etc.
Still learning about the diesels, very much a newbie, but I've wanted to do this for a while, just never thought a good deal would come along so soon.
I've driven a couple of the new diesel trucks (ford and chevy HD) and love them.
 
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joez said:
Something tells me he wants to do this swap to tow, not to drag race. I think that the DHRA uses autos is a mute point.
Click to expand...
I wasn't responding to you.....
 
Sounds like it might work for ya. If you want info on that beast of a motor, swap info, etc., go over to www.turbodieselregister.com and sign up, pay the small membership fee and start learning. Great info, much like CK5 for tech info.


Oh, and regarding drag racing..............you WILL be amazed at the power, even stock, but with a 12V for low $$ you can pump up the output to embarass the odd Mustang or rice boy. :D
 
You posted it on a public forum for all to see and anyone with a membership to respond to. I said nothing bad to you , just pointing out the fact that just because the DHRA uses autos means nothing. Just because drag racers use 10 bolt's over 14bolts, doesnt make the 10bolt better than a 14bolt for our application, does that make sense?

Sorry to hijack your post.
 
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