all i said was "cam timing is correct", it DID run at one point, and i know for a fact that the dots were directly above each over, and the timing was correct atleast correct enough for it to run, and then the timing was not altered and it did not start back up. i'm am 99% sure the timing is correct i did the following:
pulled valve cover to redo the valves
had someone bump starter until #1 cylinder was on compression stroke,
they bumped it again to make sure neither valve began to open,
backed both rockers off until there was obviously play,
slowly tightened rocker with one hand while i spun pushrod with other hand until i felt **some drag** (see bottom),
then i turned the nut 3/4 of a turn more
i repeated that with every valve on every cylinder
then i hand them bump the engine again until both valves on #1 cylinder were closed,
then they bumped it until the timing mark came into view (both valves still closed),
they bumped it again to 4* advanced, i could not turn it over by hand just because of the way it was situated, i left it at 4*
I had previously pulled the distributor and put it back in,
this time it WAS 180* off, (this is all after the motor ran fine and then stopped)
so i pulled it out, dropped it back in the other way, it was not where i wanted it as far as where the vaccuum advance would be, so i pulled it out and turned the oil pump with a screwdriver unti i had it where i wanted it,
put the distributor back in, (couple of tries until the oil pump lined up) finally got it to set flush with the intake manifold, i put the cap on, and lifted it back up to see the rotor was pointing near the #1 wire, turned it checked it, and repeated until it was even, turned the cap clamps on, then tightened distributor until i could just barely still turn it by hand, then rechecked the rotor- it ws still pointing at #1, rechecked my wires (even looked in the haynes manual to make sure i wasn't messing up the firing order, i even looked up my cam to make sure i hadn't somehow missed it being a 4/7 swap cam, then did a compression test, and had 125psi at every cylinder, then i RECHECKED every plugwire, every one arced off of my PAINTED headers, i then, today replaced EVERY single plug, even though the other ones were new, some were gas soaked, and i heard that platinum plugs aren't so good in older style engines.
The following parts are NEW-
plugs, wires, rotor button, distributor cap, camshaft, intake manifold, lifters.
how many volts should be running to the distributor hot wire in HEI? I just have a hotwire straight from the positive terminal of the battery (other wire frayed, just figured i'd do that because it was just to try to get the motor running. well it's getting spark i know, but maybe somehow not enough.
**i also noticed on the last time i re adjuste the valves the pushrods had almost no point at with there was a "slight drag" it went from free spinning to i can't turn it by hand with less than 1/8 turn.
Maybe that will give ya'll some idea of what i've done, and some help eliminated or identifying problems.
Thanks everyone. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
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