52 front spring buildup questions......

[themaddhatter]

I am researching my K5 buildup right now, & have spent the better part of two days weeding through searches, and wanted to ask everyone a few questions for those doing the 52" springs (like Sandman)
-when you did the 52" spring swap in the front, did you just do the shackle flip in the rear? Or did you use a 4" spring?

-did you go to crossover steering in the front? If so, did you modify the front crossmember? Did you beef up the steering box area?

-in the rear, did you use 52" springs, or 56" springs? Do they also have different pin offsets?
-how much of a PITA was it drilling the center pins out on the front springs? Did you use a drill press or a milling machine?

Any info you can hook me up with will definitely be appreciated /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Shane
AKA themaddhatter

 

[lifethroughdeath]

if you try doing a search with the username SANDMAN he amongst others recently did this swap, and i'm sure he'll have what you're looking for. Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

nate /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[leadfoot067]

shackle flip in rear
already had crossover,and steering box frame brace,made my own crossmember
went to 56" rears.didnt re-drill either pack,used a zero rate in the front and the 56" rears have the center pin in the correct place

 

[77 Mud Buddy]

I'm running an Echobit shackle flip in the rear for about 5 3/4" of lift. I also replaced my rear 52's with 56's and reversed the Echobit shackle flip as if I was using 57" Furd springs. It seemed to work okay, I think I'm going to extend my rear shackle a little to a) beef it up and b) make it about 1/2" longer. If anything I think I lost a little lift when I went to the 56" springs in the rear, I think the ass end will come up a little once I take the top off / possibly put a truck tail gate on.

Crossover, Yes I did that at the same time. No I did not modify the front crossmember. With the angle bent in the drag link I didnt see any problems.

Steering box area, Well, I also went with West Texas Offroad's "Redneck Ram". I figure this will take alot of the stress of of the frame but I did notice a small crack and have ordered a weld in kit to go with the bolt in kit I already have.

56" springs are the same length from the front eye whole to the center pin, but the back is about 3" longer. I flipped my 56" springs to get more wheel base and better departure angle. I'm now sitting at about 114" wheel base, kind of long, but I love my aproach and departure angles. Tuck the transfer a little better and I think I'll be pretty darn good to go.

I didnt do any drilling of center pins, but then again I was looking for ways to get my 42" TSL's off the firewall so I liked that my front was moved forward 2". I'm also using 1.5" zero rates to move it forward some more. I have drilled springs before though, you really need a good press and good sharp bits, it takes a long time with this stuff much less poor equipment.

Any more questions let me know, there are about four of us here in Austin that have done this mod, there is a virtual plethera of 52" front knoledge here.

Check out my pics in the link of my sig if you want to see some front spring pics.

 

[themaddhatter]

Excellent info here guys....

I am looking to run 42s with HEAVY trimming.

Want a very log COG & big meats with 60/14 combo.

Is this doable with stock 52s & shackle, or will I need to use 2" springs? 4"?

Keep em coming

 

[77 Mud Buddy]

>I am looking to run 42s with HEAVY trimming.

You can see how much I trimmed with my 42's. This is with the front axle 3.5" forward and stock 52's with a hill4wd extended shackle.
Second round of fender trimming
I basicly took the fender trimming back to the firewall. I'm pretty sure I'm still going to rub the firewall. I also had to pound my radiator support forward a little, I think I'm going to have to just loose a section of it though. Note: my 77 radiator support is a little more shallow than later model K5's that I've seen. Late model Blazers might need to pound / trim more. Dont know for possitive though.

>Is this doable with stock 52s & shackle, or will I need to use 2" springs? 4"?

My stock 52" rears up front gave me about 4" of lift, I then used 1" 4 degree angled zero rate, a 2" extended (1" lift) shackle and a 2" body lift. And as stated above I'm still going to hit my firewall and probably the radiator support too. I belive this set up to be a minimum with out actually cutting your firewall.

However My Neighbor has a very simular set up. It is as follows 52" fronts, 2" body lift, relocated and exteneded rear shackle (7 1/4" i belive). I think he is about 2" shorter than me and his axle is only moved forward 2" total. He is thinking about running bump stops because when about 90% flexed up front his 42's start to rub the inside of his outer fender. He is also real close to the firewall. So, I think you need about 2 more inches to run this set up well (zero rate / exteneded shackle), but then agian the CK5 moto is cut it if it rubs.

The cons about lift springs is they are stiffer, that is why I used other avenues to lift my truck with stock springs. I dont suggest lift 52's if your doing it for flex reasons.

Oppinions are liks ass holes, everbody's got one!

 

[77 Mud Buddy]

One other thing I didnt really cover. I used my echobit shackle flip with my 56" rears. Others have used the rear springs front hanger off of either 1 ton chevy's or early model K5's, cut them down a little and used them for home made shackle flip's. They had to locate them their selves which takes some shackle angle knowledge but it is doable. You can just do the ORD shackle flips set to the longer spring setting. It's all about how much money and time you want to spend on it.