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52s crossover highsteer hydroassist?

mrdrinksalil

mrdrinksalil

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Ok I did search but lots of mixed info. Can it be done and not have the tierod behind the axle? For some reason I remember this not being possible because the tierod would contact something????

Pics if its possible.
 
If im not mistaken the only thing that matters is how far you push the axle forward... But why not go behind the axle? worried about oil pan clearance?
 
Depending on how far forward the axle is, the draglink can hit the tierod. Moving the steering box forward will eliminate this problem.
 
Ryan, you sure do your research, that I know. But I wanna be sure 100% before I drop coin on a driverside arm. I dont think im running zerorates up front anymore so its just a standard 52 swap. As for putting it behind the axle I dont wanna spend the money on the two arms when I allready have a arm and will prolly eventually go full hydro. I for sure wont spend time moving the steering box forward.

I'm actually up in the air of going full hydro or hydro assist right now.
 
mrdrinksalil said:
Ryan, you sure do your research, that I know. But I wanna be sure 100% before I drop coin on a driverside arm. I dont think im running zerorates up front anymore so its just a standard 52 swap. As for putting it behind the axle I dont wanna spend the money on the two arms when I allready have a arm and will prolly eventually go full hydro. I for sure wont spend time moving the steering box forward.

I'm actually up in the air of going full hydro or hydro assist right now.
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Yea I hear ya, my steering sucks a big one and I wanna add hydro assist next year. I'm just going to add a real beefy battering ram, er I mean tierod at the same time. Do a little searching on here, I know there's a few threads discussing this topic that have alot of information.
 
yea ryan's right. it depends on how far forward the axle is. im running reverse high-steer on my d60 with PSC hydro-assist. im running two arms from NWF with the axle 3.5" forward. the only real down fall is pan clearance (dependin on how much lift you have), and breaking a knuckle (dependin on tire size). the Reid (formerly Dedenbear) knuckles would fix that, what are just over $500/set. http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA60.php
 
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paul is a dickwad... and I am going to drop his side of the rig off a cliff... wait maybe that wont work
 
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GEORGIA GABE said:
Paul your truck is SOOO much cooler than mine... Sometimes I think about it and it makes me sad. Will you please go to Moab with me next month to make me feel better?
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Oh Gabe... Wipe your tears away, i'll come to Moab with you.






HAHAHAHHAHA. Looks like someone forgot to log out. muuahhhahahaha


ANyway.... I have been going back and forth in my head too much on this one. I guess I'll just go hydro assist for now and leave the tierod low. Once the tierod is bent beyond repair i'll just sell everything and go full hydro.
 
even if u went hi steer you would still have to buy/make a tie rod or mabye just change the ends to dodge ends...the checy tie rod is to long...hense this is why if u look at alot of the threads on here about hi steer people say its expensive
 
I am running 56" fronts with my front axle 4" foward & ORD normal highsteer with hydroassist. The drag link is right above the tieord. I "C" notched my frame & used a straight Ford pitman arem to increase my uptravel. Then built a bumpstop to keep everything from binding. It is possible to do but it would have been a lot easier if I had the behind the axle tierod arms. I had already had these & it was before the behind the axle ones were being made. It does limit my uptravel but not much more than it wouild have been due to the tires getting into the fenders.

P8030024.jpg
 
If its not a Daily Driver, Then I would go full hydro. Its relatively cheap and all around better for the rig.
 
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