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52's-front forward or shac back?

JeffHK5

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I know this has been beat into the ground but other than wheelbase increase (i.e approach ang.) what's the best way to put 52's on a K5? Would you leave the front perch in stock local and move shackel into center of body mount or move front up? Both require a longer shac. I read the "Long travel Blazer" write-up in 4Wheel&Offroad and they seem to be the only people going the "stock front and back in the body mount" method. :confused:

I know there are different opinions on this , what are the pros and cons of each?

Feel free to direct me to previous post on this if it's a dead horse :rolleyes:

Thanks Jeff
 
with lift comes axle movement to the back. so need to move axle forward. this means front mount go forward. and there is a full write up in the tech section.
 
you'd have to mod the body mount, imo. I barely remember the article, but I know I didn't like it. TO really have shackle movement I'd say the bottoms of the body mount would have to be removed. You wouldn't gain much in approach angle unless you push the axle forward. I'd just move it forward. Either way its 4 rivets(and bolts), and 4 holes, but the leaving front stock would require one big hole to be cut in the frame. I'd just move it forward, haven't done it myself though.
 
I think the main reason the front hangers are moved forward is because if they were not, you would actually move the axle back a few inches. Super flexy suspension, accompanied by big tires and moving the axle closer to the inner fenders means that no amount of trimming will fix the tire-rub problem you would have.

When I did my conversion, the front spring hanger was moved forward 4", the rear shackle hanger moved forward about 2.5", and 7.25" shackles were used, and the tire alignment with the fenders is damn near perfect for the suspension travel, IMO.
 
MTMike said:
I think the main reason the front hangers are moved forward is because if they were not, you would actually move the axle back a few inches. Super flexy suspension, accompanied by big tires and moving the axle closer to the inner fenders means that no amount of trimming will fix the tire-rub problem you would have.

When I did my conversion, the front spring hanger was moved forward 4", the rear shackle hanger moved forward about 2.5", and 7.25" shackles were used, and the tire alignment with the fenders is damn near perfect for the suspension travel, IMO.
ditto :D check out jekbrown's write up in the tech section it answers most??????????s :D
 
I forgot to state this in my orig. post but my springs have the stock distance from front spring eye to center pin. All the length(+7") is behind the center pin, so they will not move the diff closer to fire wall. Would moving the front mount up like 2" and running a long shackle work or would I have a bad ang. ?

My springs where built by Alcan for a long travel K5 and where never ment to be on the back of a rig.

Alot a info after the fact!! :doah:

Thanks Jeff
 
Either way the spring is 52" so the front and rear mounts would be in teh same place as the tech article. if you move your front mount then you should move the rear accordingly.
 
the more flex = more rear axle movement. yu stand the chance of stuffing a tire in the firewall much easyer.
 
JeffHK5 said:
I forgot to state this in my orig. post but my springs have the stock distance from front spring eye to center pin. All the length(+7") is behind the center pin, so they will not move the diff closer to fire wall. Would moving the front mount up like 2" and running a long shackle work or would I have a bad ang. ?


I see what your sayin.the axle would not be moved frontward or back. then you wouldn't have to move the rear hanger forward 2in because u only moved front 2in.
I have thought of do ing this too so i don't have to go x-over sterring.just have to limit the travle.FYI dodge rear springs are 52'' with offset!!
 
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