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52's installed

hillbilly deluxe

hillbilly deluxe

Professional Pile-It
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Mar 6, 2007
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Aurora, CO.
I did alot of reading on here before doing my 52 swap and now I feel like I want to throw in my 2c. I read a few posts that said the shackle angle would be vertical without moving the shackle hanger. After I did my measuring, I didn't move mine and got decent angle. There were a few things I read I would have to do that I didn't do. My axle is moved forward roughly 3/8 inch now. I love the way it rides and flexes! The only thing worrying me now is that the springs are pretty flat. I'm afraid after awhile they will arch up (that happened to some other guy I know who yook too many leaves out of a pack)..... Here's shackle angle pics:

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Hey, that shackle angle looks good to me. I was curious how many leaves are in your 52's, because they do look really flat.
 
Having the spring flatter will inprove the shackle angle the more arch the straighter the shackle would be. I think the subs are heavier so they flatten the spring more allowing the hanger to not have to be moved.
I read that the angle should be 45 deg with the main leaf flat for best results front or back i could not find this anywhere. Seems most just set it up and say it looks ok.

Side note i fabbed up my 52's and had the same results as you did on shackle angle good. And with that did a little research and found dodge rear springs to be 52 but center pin is 24x28 and chevy is 26x26. So by using the dodge springs the axle will move forward 2 inches but the shackle angle will stay good as pic.
 
It also looks like you used a b52 from diy4x. most of the people that had to move their rear hanger for a better shackle angle did it because they moved the factory hanger in front of the body mount which actually moves the axle like 2 inches forward.

with the b52 you can position your springs in different places so that you dont have to move the rear hanger and I think that is one of the reasons its built that way.

when I did swapped in my 52s I used the factory hanger but reshaped it and the body mount so that I could mount the hanger directly under the body mount. My axle stayed in the factory location and I didnt have to move my shackle hanger either.

moving the shackle hanger depends on how far you move the spring and in effect, the axle forward.

and as far as your flat springs go, they may be worn out. the first set I installed were completely flat. I ended up swapping them out for a set that were a little more arched because of the same concerns. The flex is rediculous though. right now Ive got 13.5 travel shocks set up for 4 inches up and 8 inches down (limiting straps to keep from ripping off my mounts) and the front flexes more than the front and rear combined with factory length lift springs. I cant wait till I can afford some longer shocks and a custom driveshaft.
 
What size shackle are you running? How much lift would you say you got?

If you like the ride and flex then you are all set. I think people get too hung up on shackle angle. If it flexes and rides well, then the shackles angle is right. :waytogo:

If you want a little more flex and a softer ride, move the spring back one spot on the B52.
 
The shackles are 7.25" from the center of the bolt holes. The springs are off of an 84 1/2 ton pickup. They have 4 leaves. I looked on a website that sells springs and the capacity of the rear springs on a 5 leaf 1/2 ton and the front springs on a 2 leaf 3/4 ton were the same if you get the heavy duty front springs. 1900 ponds or so. I actually used the overload from the pack for my rear overload. I wanted one that was thinner and had some more arch so I could turn it upside down.
The thing that actually got me started on this whole project were a couple of cracks in the front spring hangers. I originally wasn't even going to do 52's (i'm really glad I did). I just started looking for beefier spring hangers and found b-52's, then it was on. It just happened to work out that the b-52's on the forwardmost hole caused my axle to be within 3/8" of stock. The b-52's are set up with 2 sets of holes for 2 mounting positions but only one position was even close to the old holes. I previously had the axle moved forward 1.5" with zero-rates, but when I pulled my old springs I didn't like the way they looked. I don't see how having the axle off center of the pack can be good for the springs. I would actually like to have my axle more forward for clearance, but I found a cool way to screw the wheel well back up near the floor to keep the wheels from eating them. I see some guys ditch the wheel wells but I want mine because they keep the mud off the engine (to an extent).

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The front leaves have gotten even flatter over the last year and now the front is visually lower than the rear. Plus it's a little crazy feeling on the highway. I want to get new ones (no junk this time). I think max 4" lift, probably 2" to level the front with the rear. Any advice on good riding replacement springs?

Is it bad etiquette to revive my own/old thread?
 
I looked at brand new replacement springs they are 150 a piece at PTO sales they have locations all over. If you get the same era dodge rear 52 they move the axle forward 2 inches with out changing the shackle angle, the center pin is moved 2 inches more on the dodge.
 
How's the build? I haven't checked in a while. I was looking at some Skyjacker Softrides and they were $245 each. That seems pretty high but I really want to get a spring that rides well.
 
Been too busy on other projects and not a lot of interest in the sub lately, but the sand season is starting so i got to get to work on it soon. I think the dodge rears are the way to go, keeps the springs farther back in the mounting holes so better approach and more adjust ability in shackle Angle.

Here is a link to a spring company that you can look at for all the specs.

http://www.generalspringkc.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=21&pg=1
 
What about some alcans? Custom made to order. Expensive but I have never heard a bad thing about them. Just a thought, plus they are out of Grand Junction so you could save on shipping :D
 
mnstrburbon said:
I looked at brand new replacement springs they are 150 a piece at PTO sales they have locations all over. If you get the same era dodge rear 52 they move the axle forward 2 inches with out changing the shackle angle, the center pin is moved 2 inches more on the dodge.
Click to expand...

I used dodge rear springs for the front of my S10 Blazer. Only problem with them is the funky bushing sizes. Had to special order them.
 
Alcans? I like that idea alot. I can drive there and show them what I want.

Do you remember what sizes the dodge bushings are? (curiosity/might use them)
 
Thanks, if I go with Dodge's it'd be nice to at least be able to re-use my greasable bolts. Looks like they've got everything. I think the Chevy spring bolts are 9/16".
 
so with your 52s and front axle in almost the stock location, are you using the factory steering? sway bar?
 
Update

I was getting ready to update this thread anyway. The 52's I installed are basically done for. They were too soft and after several wheeling trips they are arched up (slightly). They are a 4 leaf pack from a 1/2t pickup. They are so soft that they can flex up and contact the end of the pitman arm. Took me a minute to figure out why the grease zerk was smashed! :eek1: Last week I went and got some 52's off of a 3/4t 1975 pickup. They have 6 leaves. Right now the Sub sits 1.75" lower in the front. The 3/4t 52's are 3/4" thicker with the 2 extra leaves and with a little arch I think they will level the 'ol beast out again. I'm going to put the "new" 52's on and post a few pics this weekend.
 
Mine seems to eat up front springs also must be a sub thing i had a fresh set dearched 4 inch lift blazer rear springs two outing's not even hard core and they are showing signs of reverse arching and looking flatter.
 
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