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56" Rear Spring Questions

S

super k

1/2 ton status
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Is there anything I should look out for putting 56s on my '85 Jimmy? I can see I'll need to modify my tow hitch. Are there any problems with the bumper brackets or fuel tank mounting? It looks like it will be ok,just wondering if I'm over looking anything here.
What I'm doing is swapping the suspension and axles from my retired '91 Suburban over to my '85 Jimmy replacement. Front is done and I'm pulling the rear stuff this week. Everybody likes pictures,so...

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the 56's shouldn't need anything other than a shackle flip and longer shackle.
are you trying to simply install the 56's on the stock hanger, with the hanger moved back? Are these 56's lifted already, cause you'll need a block to level things out since no shackle flip is used.
 
if you do the shackle flip i have always read swap left to right and direct bolt them to the stock holes . then longer shackles.
 
These are 4" lift springs,same as front. I was just planning to move the hangers back. The frame is straight in that area. Won't that work?
 
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that will be fine. we were just trying to save you drilling and test fitting if you were going to go flip kit was all.

the movement will be around 3.5-4" back dependent on the angle of the shackle you want. :thumb:

but thay are 4" longer spring on the back side is all over a 52" spring.
 
Ok,thanks. I was planning on measuring the span from spring eye mount to spring eye mount on the Suburban and duplicating. I realize it may not be 4" exactly. Better safe than sorry. I hate going through all this,but low budget is what this is all about. Sweat equity over wallet rules around here these days. Next,it's swap the 4L80E/NP241/instruments/ECM in. The Suburban was also a diesel.
 
yep should be 4" and the center to center of the hangers will prob be 1" less than the spring length. that helps set the shackle in the arc thay want it to travle.

yep sometimes moving 1 set to another = money saved and only time used.

7/16" bolts fit the rivit holes best with a metal lock nuts. not lock washers or nylon lock nuts.

if i recall the rivit holes are set 4" apart on the hangers. so pop them off and just move 1 set of holes and drill half the holes new. easy job. i did this on a 1/2 ton truck i made in to a trailer. had 3 leaf weak springs in it. i swaped in 9 leaf 56" springs. worked real good. :thumb:
 
That would be great to only have to drill two of the hanger holes on each side. It's a busy weekend coming up. But,I hope to make some progress on this. I have the Jimmy stuff ready to drop. The Suburban stuff will be easy. Then it's hanger moving time (after I pull bumper,hitch,and tank.
 
fyi more than 2 holes to drill.

dont forget the kicker bracket under the rear hanger. :whistle:

and if i didnt say it before 7/16 is best fit for rivit holes.
 
Ok,I'm a wimp!...Or maybe just have to admit I'm gettin' old. I finally got time last night to finish pulling the Jimmy rear and springs,then did the same on the Suburban. Looking at what it takes to pull the bumper,hitch,tank,and grind 12 rivet heads,drill 12 holes,then bolt it all back together I feel it's more than I care to do right now. Maybe it's because I can't get the Jimmy's rear brake hose apart from the line.It is just not going to break loose. They are now as one and I'm happy for them. So happy I'm taking my tube cutter to that line and getting to use my flaring and bending tools! Maybe I'm scared the bumper,hitch,tank mounting bolts might give me the dickens. The hanger rivetsare about 7" apart,so no reusing any holes,either. Mostly it's because I have other plans for the summer. I still have the 4L80E/NP241/ECM/Speedo swap to do on this Jimmy before it gets rolling. So...I bit the bullet and ordered a pair of 52" EZ-ride springs and will sell off the 56s. $508 shipped...OUCH! That was tire money for my Harley. I also have a lift/axle swap to do on my '72 K2500. I wanted to do this Jimmy real quick so I could drive it while I do the truck. Then there's the on going ground-up '67 GMC SWB hot rod project I'd like to at least make some project on this summer,as well as finish parting the Suburban and do whatever it takes to get my '71 K/10 SWB and C/30 wrecker sold. You never know what my'92 K3500 might need,although it's doing great for 280,000. Time sure passes fast when the days are long...go figure!...sheesh
 
moving that shackle hanger back would have interfered with your bumper bracket, the money you spent isn't too bad for the work you saved yourself moving your brackets around so don't feel bad, especially if you just wanted to lift your truck and you don't care about running a longer flexier spring
 
That's good to know. I originally started this thread asking such questions. I've only done trucks and K/5s present more issues due to rear tank and shorter length. I looked like the brackets were back enough,but I surely would have been altering my tow hitch. This is a general purpose 4wd,not looking for ultimate performance off road. It's more for traveling and,once there,back country wheelin'. I'll eventually make bumpers but didn't plan to this summer. I'm sure I would have ended up doing the back bumper if I stayed with the 'Burb springs. It was a nice idea but oh well,no biggy. I'm considering holding off on the t-case/trans swap till winter,too. I wanna drive it! Nothing wrong with what's in there. Just want to put that 4L80E to good use and get the lower low.
 
I ordered springs on Monday and had them on Friday! Way to go Suspension Connection! I just have to bolt up the drive shaft,hook up the e-brake cables,put tires on,torque it all up,and bleed the brakes. It won't be long now. Then I can put the soft top on and enjoy some summer fun. I've had it a year now. It just made on home on the fuel the p.o. left in it (a few miles away). The first time I moved it I ran out of fuel. Dumped 5 gal. in and it had only been moved a few times. It's never been out of my driveway and has had tags since about when I started this spring/axle thing. First stop...FILL 'ER UP!!!
 
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