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6.0" con rods. . .will they work

Re: 6.0\" con rods. . .will they work

if you want high rpm then go to a solid lifter cam
 
Re: 6.0\" con rods. . .will they work

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Not true, a Chevy can be decked to zero and running regular Fel-Pro perma torque gaskets gives you .042", which is right in the ideal of .039-.045.

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What if his block is already at zero deck? Then decking not an option. The best he could do would be to square deck to bring them all to zero. In that case, no real increase in compression ratio would happen. That was my point. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

I have seen numerous small blocks, because of factory tolerances, where one or more of the pistons come up a few thousandths above the deck. Once again, no decking should be done at that point. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

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As to what my quench distance is, I believe in the .065" range as the engine has composite gaskets and AFIAK not been decked although it has been rebuilt. I blew up the engine I built for this rig and haven't had the funds to build another yet, but when I do, it will be a 383 with 5.7 rods, balanced, decked to zero, with the fel pro perma-torques and aftermarket heads.


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So in other words, you have no idea what your quench distance is. If you think that all of your pistons are exactly 0.020 in the hole, you are mistaken. With out measuring, you have no idea.

In my case, I had pistons that varied from 0.009 to 0.018 in the hole. Square decking the block brought them all to 0.004 down. With a Felpro gasket with a compressed thickness of 0.041, I have the ideal quench distance of 0.045.

Decking the block to get the ideal quench is important, but isn't always a guaranteed way to increase compression ratio. Using pistons with less dish and using heads with a smaller combustion chamber is almost always a guaranteed way. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Re: 6.0\" con rods. . .will they work

unless the factory tolerences bite you there as well and the "smaller" cc heads are not actually smaller
or the new pistons are shorter compression hieght then the existing

no guarentees as you are so eloquently laying out
 
Re: 6.0\" con rods. . .will they work

[ QUOTE ]
unless the factory tolerences bite you there as well and the "smaller" cc heads are not actually smaller
or the new pistons are shorter compression hieght then the existing

no guarentees as you are so eloquently laying out

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If you are putting parts into your engine without measuring their specs, it is your own fault. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

My "67cc" S/R Torquers actually measure 72cc's. My 12cc dished pistons measured right at 12cc, but I hope they would.....the tops are CNC'd.

Most people run into problems because they don't spec out their parts. I just love it when people say "I have 10:1 pistons" when really they have no idea what their true compression ration is. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Re: 6.0\" con rods. . .will they work

While going to 6.0" rods without new pistons won't work...

You could get a stroker crank and some 5.565" rods and keep your pistons. This will not only get you a good amount more compression but also a bunch more cubes /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

You can get stroker cranks for about $230 and you could get some used 400 small block rods for dirt. It would work out to about the same $$$ as just buying 6.0" aftermarket rods.
 

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