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6.0L w/o factory EFI, bad idea?

mrk5

mrk5

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I can get basically a long block from the local pick'n'pull for about $275 + $25 core, so $300 since I'm not going to have a core. Specifically includes block, heads, intake, balancer, water pump, oil pan, valve covers, and injectors.

Usually by the time I find the motors in the yard the factory EFI stuff has been picked over. So I was thinking I could put an aftermarket EFI on the motor, something like FiTech EFI. Is that a dumb idea?

I ask because there's a 99 2500 out there now with a 6.0L. :thinking:
 
A '99 6.0 would have iron heads, I'd look for anything '00+.
 
My dad is building an ls7...using an fitech unit. He wants the old school look.

There was a dyno thread I read up on where the oem efi was used vs fitech and it was roughly the same. Obviously with the oem style youd have more control over each cylinder and probably a wider variety of tuning but its splitting hairs at that point.

I say go for it.
 
The cost of a harness and factory ecm is probably roughly close to an aftermarket setup. So if you can do the same thing and have far more tuning capability and a nationwide dealer tech support and parts at any store, why wouldn't you go with a factory setup?
 
I would stick to factory efi, stock parts are dirt cheap. Factory truck harness and ecm shouldnt cost more then 200 and thats if someone took it off the truck already. Can probably find a used truck intake and tb for less then a 100. Not sure if your pull a part does it or not, but my local one allows you to scavenge the parts missing off a motor from any other vehicle on the lot. My last 6.0 I had to steal the altenator and starter off a tahoe on the other side of the yard.
 
The availability of parts is IMO the winner here. All these aftermarket companies are great and all, but sometimes shipping a sensor compared to buying one over the counter is just meh. The stock GM FI in the 6.0 is pretty decent and tunable.
 
It occurred to me last night that I could probably source a stand alone ECU and wiring harness pretty easy. So far the 6.0L that's there hasn't been molested but I don't know how long its been there. I know there are people that go there and scavenge parts, especially EFI stuff so I'll be interested to see how long it lasts. Buddy of mine is going to try and pull it this morning. He wants the trans for his project.
 
Chevy305 said:
A '99 6.0 would have iron heads, I'd look for anything '00+.
Click to expand...
Are the iron heads that bad?

wetoolowdingbangow said:
My dad is building an ls7...using an fitech unit. He wants the old school look.

There was a dyno thread I read up on where the oem efi was used vs fitech and it was roughly the same. Obviously with the oem style youd have more control over each cylinder and probably a wider variety of tuning but its splitting hairs at that point.

I say go for it.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I was thinking there would be a cool, fun factor to doing it. Kind of a mish-mash of modern and old tech because the FiTech looks like a carb.
 
If it were mine, a stock unmolested 6.0l?
I'd run all the factory injection set up. No messing with tuning or additional conversions
 
how much are you really saving in the end?

I tend to lean toward keeping the OE direct port FI unless there is a significant savings justifying a system such as FiTech.
 
Keep the stock system. Get a Howell harness and use the stock ecm. The harness is money well spent. All of what you need, none of what you don't. Stock ecm is very tunable, or have Howell do the tune too.

Like others have said the availability of parts was the kicker for me. You can walk into any parts store and get the part you need since they are so common now. It's a simple system when you break it down and if all you want is reliable and not ultra high hp you can't beat it. It can do that too, but these engines are very reliable when kept stock.

Look at my build with the 5.3. I'm using a different ecm, but the harness is a Howell.
 
The only reason I was looking at alternatives to the factory EFI is because they are frequently scavenged/missing from the motors in the pick'n'pull.
 
The iron heads dont really flow any less then the aluminum just weigh more. you can pick up a set of aluminum 317 for 100 or so. Also note that the crank is longer on the iron head motors and it wont mount up to a 4l60, works fine with a 80e or old school auto just make sure you have the flat flexplate and not the dished one that the 60e uses. Once you get it and figure out whats missing post up what you need or pm me, I might have it laying in the shed lol. Think I have atleast one or two intakes, a couple drive by wire throttle bodies and plenty of other random parts...
 
Easier than installing a cable throttle body etc would be to install a throttle pedal for a 6.5L diesel. They are drive by wire and the pedal is compatible with the factory LS TAC module. Literally bolts in and looks like the stock pedal too.
 
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