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6.0's here. What am I getting into? Pics added 10-30-08

g_mo

g_mo

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Well, my 6.0 showed up today. It's not the one I ordered. The one I was supposed to get was out of an 07 3/4 ton pickup. What I got is out of an 08 van( I hope that doesn't matter). Got complete engine, under hood harness, computer. They forgot to send MAF, and pedal but are sending it. Man that's alot of wires on that thing. Will I need any of the under dash harness( I hope not). They cut the braided fuel line about an inch from the fuel rail( I hope that doesn't matter either), and the cut the emmision line coming off the intake right behind the evep service port( Hope that doesn't matter). I guess I'll need a new dipstick and oil filler neck, as these stick out pretty far. Should I hold out for a truck motor or just keep this one? This motor does not have any miles on it. Or maybe I should just keep the 350 in it for simplicity sake. Opinions? Advice? Thanks.

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I don't know if it applies to chevy gas engines but I know on Furd vans the engines are dumbed down. I would check this and make sure the Chevy vans arn't dumbed down.
 
GsxrMike said:
I don't know if it applies to chevy gas engines but I know on Furd vans the engines are dumbed down. I would check this and make sure the Chevy vans arn't dumbed down.
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Good point. I checked Chevy's website, you're right. The van is about 40 less HP and just slightly less torque. From what is on Chevy's website, the 5.3 isn't much less HP than the van 6.0. I could save a little money and go with the 5.3. This kind of ticks me off because he dropped the ball on my first motor, I ended up with less for the same money. And to think he tried to get a couple hundred more dollars because this motor is a little newer.
 
Well glad I could help. It might just be in the programing which you could fix with EFI LIVE or something comparable. Can you get your money back?
 
stick with the 6.0, even if it makes a little less power throw a cam in there and a tune and you will have more than enough power
 
Found out over on LS1Truck.com the difference is in the tune and exhaust. Looks like I'll be keeping the van motor.
 
BGKYK5 said:
I bet most of the difference in HP numbers is from the tuning.
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Most of it is in the tune and intake/exaust setups.

For example: A friend of mine was looking at 07 trucks, Silverado (and the GMC equivelent), Tahoe and Suburban, all with the 5.3. The Tahoe made less torque and horsepower than the Silverado. The GMC had more torque but the same horsepower. I don't recall what the Suburban made. According the techs at the dealership, each model is tuned slightly differnt. But when you make a major body change with the same motor (ie: truck to van) the intake may get changed. And the exaust packaging will be differnt. Usually the motors are the same internally (cam and compression).

As g_mo found out, you can put the truck tune into a van motor. Or go a step further and do a custom tune.
 
$1500 for motor and all. i figure on having a little more than $2k in it when the swap is done, maybe more. i'm sure there are some things i'll need that i haven't thought of yet.
 
Pretty much all of the LQ4s are identical internally, they used different head castings throughout the years, most of the 04 and newer ended up with the better LQ9 heads. The cool thing is the only difference between the LQ9 and later LQ4 is about a half a point of compression. So in theory you could get close to 345 horse out of LQ4 with just programming.

You're going to have to send the computer off to get the anti-theft disabled, remove most of the emission related codes and transmission related codes if you're not using a 4l80 or 4l60. Just have whoever does it (I prefer Mark at Street and Performance)put in a better tune while they are there. Expect to pay close to 5 bills for the service.

I'll just go down the list of obvious stuff I can think of you're going to need for the swap.
You'll need the throttle actuator control (TAC) module and connectors along with the throttle pedal and connector.
A fuel pump capable of at least 60 psi and a fuel pressure regulator. An Airtex E2000 works good for an inline pump and a newer Corvette fuel filter will take care of the regulator requirements. You'll have to find the quick disconnect fittings to make all of the fuel lines. Don't forget that you're working with high pressure so don't cheap out or cut corners on fuel lines!!!!
Make sure your motor has the flat flexplate with a .400" spacer if you are using anything but a 4l60E for a LS motor.
It's best to use the LS style coolant bottle to make hooking up all the coolant hoses easier but you have to use a radiator without a cap to make that work. Look at a pickup with 5.3 or 6.0 to see what I mean.
Get a 6 circuit fuse block from Painless wiring to help keep all of the fuses in one spot. The wiring can be tricky especially with a drive by wire throttle body so don't be afraid to get an experienced pro involved it will save a lot of headache and money in the end.

Here is a good link with some good links http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241951
 
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Wouldn't it be easier to get an aftermarket cable driven throttle body?
 
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Carburate it!!! Guys are makin big power with carbs and a cam on those. I understand efi has def advantages on a 4x4 but just a thought.
 
Thats still cheaper than having a motor built. Good luck with the swap and keep us updated!!
 
bigblock72 said:
Pretty much all of the LQ4s are identical internally, they used different head castings throughout the years, most of the 04 and newer ended up with the better LQ9 heads. The cool thing is the only difference between the LQ9 and later LQ4 is about a half a point of compression. So in theory you could get close to 345 horse out of LQ4 with just programming.

You're going to have to send the computer off to get the anti-theft disabled, remove most of the emission related codes and transmission related codes if you're not using a 4l80 or 4l60. Just have whoever does it (I prefer Mark at Street and Performance)put in a better tune while they are there. Expect to pay close to 5 bills for the service.
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I thought the heads were all the same, with the exception of '99/'00 which are all cast iron. when they went to the aluminum head on 6.0's in '01 it is a 317 casting. they have stayed 317 castings from 01 all the way up to a gen3 '06. unless you are talking about a gen 4 aluminum block 6.0L, i'm pretty sure that LQ9's have flat top pistons making ~10:1 whereas the LQ4's have a 6.7cc dish piston with ~9.4:1.
LQ9 on left, LQ4 on right.
LQ9-LQ4pistonsrods5.jpg


As for the computer programming, i wouldn't pay 500 for a "mail order tune". I can get the vats, bcm, all that deleted for standalone operation, and then get the torque management deleted as well and that will wake up the engine.. the basic flash i've done for as little as $100.
if i add up my inital computer flash, and a full tune by rick at synergy motorsports, i still don't think i'm in it more that $500.
sure a mail order tune can get you close, but once you start modifying it, especially with a cam... the only way to get it tuned accurately is to put a wideband 02 sensor on your application and tune it to a 12.5-12.8 AFR for best power.
 
bigblock72 said:
So in theory you could get close to 345 horse out of LQ4 with just programming.
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They are under rated.
I dyno'd my blazer on a roller dyno, LQ4 with LT headers, and a stockish tune, sm465-np205 with 37's, cranked out 265rwhp @ 4761 rpms, 313rwtq @ 4079 rpms.
Maybe i'm being generous with 30% drivetrain loss, but thats 378hp/447ft/lbs at the flywheel. ;)

I have yet to get new numbers with my cammed & tuned LQ9 i slapped in there a few months ago.. the butt dyno says at least 50hp gain...:wink1:
 
I've seen that quite a few people are using intank pumps because they said the inline pumps are so loud. I would like to run an inline pump so I don't have to replace the tank. Are they really that loud? Where is the throttle actuator control located? Is it on the pedal on on the motor? It'll probably be another month or so before I start the swap. Right now I'm in the middle of repainting the truck. Between work and family it takes me probably about four times as long as it should to complete something.
 
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