6.2 injector pump r&r?

[4x4k20]

mine is leaking how much trouble are they to replace? whats the best way to go about removeing it? and what about timing how do i do that ? any info will help

 

[Tybee]

Wheres it leaking at?

 

[4x4k20]

i was told that they are 2 seals in it and one of them is leaking. i cant excatly see where the leak is. its at the very front of pump i was told that there is a weep hole under the bottom of the pump if the seal is bad it will leak there. but like i say i cant see where its leaking the valley in the block just fills up with fuel

 

[Tybee]

I have no idea on that, I was thinking maybe a injector line was loose and leaking.

 

[4x4k20]

yea. i couldnt be that lucky for it to be something that simple

 

[Tybee]

I dont think it would be that hard to replace. Do you have a replacement already or priced them yet.

 

[4x4k20]

yes i have another m1008 sitting out in the yard that i am going to get if off of.

 

[BARRAZA]

Really pretty easy. Remove intake and associated top junk, not water crossover - it's a separate piece. Remove oil fill tube so you can get to the bolts that hold shaft to gear - dont drop them, there are three and you will have to spin the motor to get them out. Undo the three housing nuts and the lines at the injectors and pull the whole thing out. Timing is not a problem - the pin in the pump goes in its hole in the gear only one way, line up the timing mark on top and you'll be fine.

 

[arveetek]

Yep, what he said.

I'll add a few other tips.

Like he said, remove the intake manifold, there's no water passages in it, so it will be dry. Leave the water crossover pipe in place. Remove the oil fill tube from the front of the motor. There are three bolts that hold the injection pump gear to the pump itself. You'll have to rotate the motor slowly to get access to each bolt. Remove one bolt at a time. Be careful not to drop the bolts down into the engine! If you do, you'll have to remove the water pump to get them out.

The fuel feed line hooks onto the rear of the pump with a rubber hose and hose clamp.

After the three bolts are removed, remove the three nuts holding the pump to the front cover. Loosen and remove the injector lines from the injectors. You can then remove the whole pump and injector line assembly in one unit. I think it's easier that way. Don't bother removing the lines from the back of the pump. Just take off and set the whole unit as one piece.

There is a pin on the pump shaft that lines up with a slot on the pump gear. There is also a hole on the gear, but the pin goes into the slot, not the hole. If you put the pin in the hole, the bolt holes don't line up. It will only bolt up one way.

When you bolt the new pump on, line up the scribe marks. This will get you pretty close on timing.
The other thing is priming the fuel system. I'd remove the glow plugs to release engine compression, and then crank the motor over for about 30 seconds at a time. Leave the injector lines loose on the injectors. After fuel starts dribbling out, clamp the lines shut, reinstall the glow plugs, and fire away.

Let it run for a while to get all the air out of the system.

If after that it starts okay, but seems sluggish, shut the motor off, loosen the three pump nuts, and rotate the pump towards the driver's side about an 1/8". Tighten the nuts. I wouldn't make the scribe marks more than a 1/4" apart. This will advance your timing. You can sort of set the timing by ear. If it gets too clattery, then back the timing off.

That should get you going!

Casey

 

[4x4k20]

thanks guys for all the info.