800 wow. didnt think it would be that much. think he would be better off with one of my cucv 6.2? all 6.2s are pretty much the same right?
More or less. If $1500 is what he has to work with he isn't going to be able to do a rebuild. A good kit with Mahle pistons will run $950 (you don't want any other pistons). Machine work is going to cost at least a grand - more depending on the condition of the crank, rods, and heads. Then there are the odds and ends: a new oil pump, new harmonic balancer, etc. By the time your done you will have 3K into it, and that is just for a plain-jane rebuild.
Here's what I would do: If the CUCV 6.2 is a good runner, doesn't have a buttload of miles on it, and doesn't use a bunch of oil then put it on an engine stand and yank the oil pan. Clean the main webs with carb cleaner and look carefully for cracks on the sides around the outer bolt holes:
See where that oil is? That is where the cracks will be. Check both sides on all the intermediate mains. If you don't see anything, get out your heat gun (don't use a torch for obvious reasons, and make sure all the carb cleaner has evaporated) and heat that area of the mains until it is too warm to hold your finger on. If there is a crack you will see oil weep out of it just like the block in the pic. If you still don't find any cracks, then order a girdle kit from DSG and install it to prevent it from cracking in the future. After you do that, replace the rear main seal - it's easy to do at this point.
Next, flip the motor over and yank the heads. Check for cracks between the intake and exhaust valves and between the valves and the precups. Also check the cracks in the precups (they WILL be cracked). If you find a crack on the head anywhere EXCEPT between the intake and exhaust valve, then junk it - it will fail and leak coolant eventually. Cracks between the intake and exhaust are OK as long as there are no signs of coolant seepage. They are caused by localized heat starting a surface crack on the exhaust seat (which is induction hardened and thus has residual stress in it). As a rule these cracks don't get into the coolant passages. Now, if there are signs of coolant leakage (it will be rusty, or it may look clean in that area), or there is a crack in any other area, call up Clearwater Cylinder Heads or some other reputable rebuilder and get a set of rebuilt or new heads - they are surprisingly reasonably priced (less than $700 for a complete set of new heads, shipped. Rebuilds are a couple hundred less than that). Finally, cracks in the precups are fine as long as they don't extend past the gasket sealing surface.
If everything is good to go, get a set of Fel-Pro head gaskets for the 6.5. They fit the 6.2 just fine, and they have more reinforcement since they are designed for a turbocharged engine. Get a set of head bolts as well - the head bolts on the 6.2/6.5 are Torque-To-Yield, and thus they are NOT reuseable. Don't even think about reusing the bolts. While you're getting head bolts and gaskets, stop by you're friendly GM man and get a new harmonic damper. A bad damper can cause a broken crank, which would be A Bad Thing.
Finally, bolt it in and ship it. The above stuff will take care of any big problems, so the motor should give plenty of good service
Get an EGT gauge, and save up to build another motor or buy an AMG long block 
