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6.2 starter issues

J

jaytee

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So I think I have my wiring problems fixed but now I have a new obstacle. I re-did all of the wiring on the truck, turned the key to crank it (fired right up!) but heard a grinding noise. The next time I tried to crank it, more grinding. I figured it was starter motor teeth grinding against the flywheel, and I was right. I crawled underneath the rig and saw the passenger side starter motor bolt hanging down from the motor about a half inch. I tried to tighten it back up, but it only goes so far. I pulled the whole thing out and just as I feared, the threads in the hole are stripped out up to about halfway through the hole. The threads in the block are good halfway up and beyond. The threads of the bolt wont engage enough to hold the starter motor in place when it is engaged. The torque ripped it out. I think the holes were like that before hand and the PO had it barely in place. My newly replaced wiring is now sending more current to the starter motor, which means more torque, which ripped out the threads.

What should I do? Some sort of shim? JB Weld? Longer bolts? Any other ideas?

I am about to go outside and start shooting the blazer. After the time and money I spent replacing wiring and fuses and fusible links and the water pump and all of this other crap, now this happens. I could have bought a Honda or Subaru and spent the time I saved with my family. Looks like I will be driving my Dodge pickup to work for the time being, at 10 MPG. At least the starter on it only took me 10 minutes to replace, and that was after 131k trouble free miles. The Blazer is really starting to tick me off.
 
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so I climbed under there tonight, tried to clean up the threads that are in the block and get the new SBC bolts that I bought to work. No dice.

The SBC bolts are too narrow for the bolt holes anyway. They have slop. I am glad I dropped the starter when I did, so I could learn that the PO put these stupid SBC bolts in there and ruined the threads in the process, as well as didn't re-install the starter bracket.
I have the proper bolts for the starter now, metric ones, as well as bolts for the bracket and the bracket itself. All I need are the holes in the block repaired. I'm going to start calling around tomorrow I guess and get some quotes for a mobile repair/machinist guy to come by and put heli-coils in for the proper bolts. If none of them will do it, then I guess I will find a shop that will do it and have it towed there.

Or I can sell it. If you want it, come get it, 1000 dollars buys a nice 85 1009 in MD with a strong 6.2 that doesn't smoke or use any oil at all. All it needs is some heli-coils or something.
 
I'd personally stop by Napa and purchase a 7/16 coarse thread tap, the drill bit specified by the tap, along with a couple of 7/16 coarse threaded 8 grade bolts of the proper length.

Drill out both your existing holes (wear safety glasses!) with the bit you bought then tap it. Next drill out your starter nose cone with the drill bit you used for the block, and re-install. Takes about an hour at most, the drill bit will automatically center, same goes for the tap so there really isn't a lot you can mess up.

Shouldn't cost more than 20 - 30 bucks at most either. You'd probably spend 5x that much getting it towed to a shop!
 
jaytee said:
. . . the threads in the hole are stripped out up to about halfway through the hole. The threads in the block are good halfway up and beyond . . ..
Click to expand...

The holes are drilled out smooth for about an half or three-quarters of an inch into the block from factory, and the threads start above that. Are you sure the hole is actually stripped out, and have you tried threading the correct starter bolts in yet?
 
Yeah when I first looked under there I didn't realize that the threads weren't supposed to extend all of the way to the opening of the hole. The threads, or what's left of them, start where they are supposed to, like 3/4 of an inch or so, I was just confused at first.


Wrench said:
The holes are drilled out smooth for about an half or three-quarters of an inch into the block from factory, and the threads start above that. Are you sure the hole is actually stripped out, and have you tried threading the correct starter bolts in yet?
Click to expand...
 
If the threads are still good, I'd recommend putting the correct bolts in (takes a special bolt) and torquing them correctly. I'm sure you already know to be sure the small bracket that goes from the end of the starter to the block is also installed. It helps to manage the torque of the starter and cuts down on the broken bolts.
 
It's alive!

I used a tap to clean the threads, installed the support bracket first, then the starter and used the support bracket to hold it in place so there was no odd tension on the starter, and the bolts threaded right in! I torqued them down, and she started right up! Woo-Hoo! This thing runs like a top! The only problem is that I promised my wife I would sell it after I took care of the starter, because I spend so much time tinkering on it......
 
question too add if you guys dont mind...my started on my m1008 with a 6.2 spins, grinds, slowly spins theh wont turn at all.....any ideas..? sounds too me its shot...
 
rob h said:
question too add if you guys dont mind...my started on my m1008 with a 6.2 spins, grinds, slowly spins theh wont turn at all.....any ideas..? sounds too me its shot...
Click to expand...

Are your batteries fully charged? Connections clean? Are the batteries being charged seperately with the cables disconnected when you have to use a plug in charger?
 
just checked some of it out, the front bat is fully charged and the rear is good but the guage i have said recharge...ill recharge it and see what happens, whats the best way to check if they are being charged properly...?...the way it seems the left alt isnt doing its job at all....
 
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