6.2 starter questions

[rcurrier44]

Buddy picked up a truck with a 6.2 in it. Suposubly it has been recently rebuilt. Well he went to start it last week and the starter just spun. We looked at it and it was only being suported by 1 bolt. Found another chevy starter bolt and it lasted for a week before it started to "jump ring gear teeth"

We knowtised the brace on the back of the starter wasn't hooked up (no bolt in block) ... after surching I see that this is needed.

But also after surching I have run across a thread that talks about a no shim starter. Witch leads be to beleave that unless you have one of these starters you need a shim for the chevey desils. I know there was not one in there when we put the starter back in.

So is this shim required for all 6.2's?

What does it look like? I reed it is 2mm thick. Could it come out and be lost when the forward bolt came out of the starter?

Thanks
ROB

 

[mrk5]

As I recall on the 6.2 I had, the shim was stuck to either the block or starter by all the grime. So it may have been there and you didn't notice. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif



Now I have to say if you became a paying member you could post this on the diesel forum and get a much better response. This site rocks! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

 

[diesel4me]

I was the one asking about the "no shim" starter--I just put my starter back in yesterday,with a rebuilt drive,as you may have already read.It sounds 100% better,there were no broken teeth on the old drive,but they were worn enough to let it slip on the flexplate,which has a few teeth that appear to be worn about halfway across the width of it,like the solenoid wasnt pushing the drive gear towards the flexplate far enough. I noticed the solenoid bolts werent very tight when I took it apart,that may have contributed to the problem--I put it back in with no shim(s)and all is well so far!.I never liked the idea of putting a shim on only the outer bolt to move the starter closer to the flexplate,seems to me having the starter cocked to one side leaving a gap between it and the mounting pad on the block cant be good for a cast aluminum nose,and it must put a lot of strain on the bolts,forcing them to go in crooked.I think this,combined with the high resistance to cranking due to the high compression of the diesel leads to cracked starter noses and block damage--and using starting fluid can do the same thing to the starter drive also.
And they are right--this site does rock--if there is anything you need to know about GM trucks,this is the place!
I've been fooling with them since 1979,and I have learned a lot on here,especially the diesel truck--many very knowledgeable and helpful people here! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[azblazor]

The 28MT (new style) starter has "no shim" cast into the body, IIRC. You can use the newer style starter on the older 6.2's but you will need to use the "newer" style front brace (straight angle). Other wise the front brace mounting point doesn't line up correctly.

 

[diesel4me]

Hmmmm, /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif--mine had the bracket thing,now I'm wondering if its the right one??,seems to sound a lot better and I had no trouble bolting it up.Anyone have pictures of both brackets????. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif

 

[azblazor]

If the bracket bolts up it's the proper one for the starter you are using. The newer style is a straight piece of angle - literally. It has one end with a rounded shape and a hole on each end.

The older one is a bent piece of angle, with a hole on either end. They each only cost a couple of dollars at the dealer, still stocked. I just saw a used one sell on EBAY for $22, crazy.

 

[diesel4me]

I think mine had the rounded end one,I'll check it out tomorrow--its probably the right one--thanks for the info! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifAnd yes,you have to be very very careful(Elmer Fudd voice)what you pay on E-bay for some stuff--helps to know what the actual price is before bidding on it--a friend paid 60 bucks for a "rare" music cd,and saw it at a record store brand new for 15---!. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif