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6.2 swap started and some questions

original balzer

original balzer

1/2 ton status
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Today I got the top side of the engine in the 83 un-buttoned. Drenched the bellhousing, exhaust, and motor mount bolts with penitrating oil for tomorrow.

Everything on this truck seams to be intact, no apperant jerry rigging or anything. It is redish orange (Im slightly color blind) engine. Some back story on this engine, my dad was driveing this truck daily. Then one day he called me and said it was making a terrible noise and had about half power. The truck got parked that day as it wasnt very high on the repair priority list.
I dont know much about these engines, but I was told this story does not nessisarily mean the engine is bad. Could be injectors or pump of somthing I cant remember. What do yall think? Is it rebuild material? My dad said he started it twice and moved it after the engine problem, so it does still run as far as I know. I havent even tried. Its been parked for about a year.

On to questions.
NOTE: I always refrence left and right side of the truck as if your sitting in the truck behind the wheel. Not standing in front of the truck looking at it.

On the back left side near the vacc pump, is a round thing with several wires coming off it. What is it? I belive all the 6.2's I have owned have had it.

The 83 does not require ANY vaccume. Hydro boost brakes, and cable activated heater controls. So is the vacc pump nessisary? Is there something to put there in its place and eliminate it?

Have any of you guys moved the second feul filter (little one behind/under the intake manifold) to some place easier to get to?

Both trucks have the better round canister feul filter on the firewall, would it be any benifit to use both in sieries? Do they make differnt filters like say a 100 micron and a 5 micron? (Note: I dont know what Im actualy talking about here)

Is there any sugestions or ideas that would be easier to do while I have these engines out? I.E. check, inspect, change, modify, ect.

More to come.

Thanks in advance,
Balzer
 
What I have come to know from 6.2s is that they are prone to breaking the crank, often on the 1st main. Best way to check other than pulling the pan is to grab the balancer and wiggle it good. IF it has a bunch of play, it's broke.

Some one also told me that changing the balancer ever 40k solves this issue.
 
I too today have got the wheels in motion for a 6.2 swap into my 77 K20. I just drove a rotted out 91 'burban 65 miles home tonight with a great running 6.2. Has 145K on it.

I have some of the same questions, is the vac pump necessary with cable hvac controls?

I have heard people say they throw out stock filters and go to a 20 micron into a 2 micron. Better filtration saves injectors and IP. I would like to see pics of set ups people are using.

I too would like to know what things should be done while engine is out.

Here is what I know I will be doing. Going to purchase a DSG main stud girdle with screw in studs. Going to throw out C code intake and replace with a J non-egr intake. People say timing chain is a weak link, but gear drive is big money, so maybe just replace chain??? Also head gaskets can be prone to failure might as well yank heads and replace gaskets with fel-pro gaskets, plus many say to replace head bolts??? No brainer to throw in new glow plugs while your there....60g's or Kennedy Diesel site says they have some that are even better then 60g's. Think I'll leave injectors for now, but everyone says to go to a 4911 IP. This is a budget build so we'll see if money and time allows for an IP replacement.

Just trying to change out the stuff that'll suck the most to do after its in truck.

*edit* Oh yeah and replacing balancer like Bent72 says is a great idea.
 
original balzer said:
said it was making a terrible noise and had about half power.
Click to expand...

Check your fuses/fusable links. I blew a fuse one day and it smoked really bad and lost a lot of power and started running hot. Had to stop driving within 1 mile to keep it alive.

On the back left side near the vacc pump, is a round thing with several wires coming off it. What is it? I belive all the 6.2's I have owned have had it.
Click to expand...

This is your glow plug controller. It cycles your plugs when the engine is cold.

The 83 does not require ANY vaccume. Hydro boost brakes, and cable activated heater controls. So is the vacc pump nessisary? Is there something to put there in its place and eliminate it?
Click to expand...

I have heard of people removing this(I have ac so I have to keep mine) and putting a blockoff plate in there.



Is there any sugestions or ideas that would be easier to do while I have these engines out? I.E. check, inspect, change, modify, ect.
Click to expand...

get a gasket set and replace all of them. The valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket/rear main will be much easier to replace outside the vehicle.

Hope this helps some.

ryan

Mods, this might be good to move to the diesel forum.
 
WOAH! Crap wait a minute here a FUZE could have made my dad think it was blown up? HA! That would be just my luck to swap engines over a blown fuze.:haha: **ELABORATE PLEASE**

I hadnt realy planned on a "build" per-say, but a few mods wouldnt hurt. Also I ran out in my PJ's and wiggled the balancer it felt solid.

Where do I find the info on the engine? Casting numbers ect. is what Im looking for here.

J-code? how do I know? EGR? Is that the 3"ish round shiney thing by the oil filler tube?

Sorry lots of questions, there should be a 6.2 "BIBLE" thread.:haha:

Balzer
 
original balzer said:
J-code? how do I know? EGR? Is that the 3"ish round shiney thing by the oil filler tube?
Click to expand...

Here you can see the difference between the J and C intakes. J being the left one.

JvsC.jpg


desertrat67 said:
I have heard of people removing this(I have ac so I have to keep mine) and putting a blockoff plate in there.
Click to expand...

You can't just use plate, you have to replace pump with oil pump drive gear, because oil pump is turned by camshaft via vacuum pump.
 
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Yeah, that's correct. My bad, I was thinking that 400 has switch for kick-down, so it doesn't have vac modulator either. Didn't remember that I plugged the vac pump when I switched from 350 to 700 on Blazer :D
 
4x4_76 said:
You can't just use plate, you have to replace pump with oil pump drive gear, because oil pump is turned by camshaft via vacuum pump.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I knew there was something to it, but couldn't remember.
 
original balzer said:
WOAH! Crap wait a minute here a FUZE could have made my dad think it was blown up? HA! That would be just my luck to swap engines over a blown fuze.:haha: **ELABORATE PLEASE**
Click to expand...

I blew the 20 amp ignition or gage/idle fuse(can't remember which), but it made the thing smoke like crazy and run rough and make crappy power. I also have some wiring issues that are centralized around my glow plug controller that was causing fuses to blow(which was what happened in this case).

And that 3' shiny thing is the CDR calve. It stands for Crankcase Depression Regulator. It's purpose is to recycle the exhaust gases that manage to get past the piston rings and into the crankcase.
 
Sweet info! Although if I go out there and any of those fuze's is blown Im gunna freak out since the engine is half way out already lol. But today as stated in the lounge my motivation modulator seams to be broken. So Ill check that later.

On another note, Do you guys think this engine is rebuildable if the crank balancer seams to be solid? If by any chance it IS one of those fuzes should i pull it out anyway and rebuild it even if it in theory was a good runner (used and leaked alot of oil though)

Balzer
 
Ok curiosity got the best of me so I went and checked fuses. Now we all know that if the truck dont use a certain fuze thats there and labled on the fuze pannel it usualy dont have contacts in it. But This truck has 3 spots with contacts but no fuzes.
1) ECM-bat
2) ECM-ign
3) AU-idle

Now that "au-idle" slot apears to have been used alot. The plastic around it is worn in a way that looks like plyers have been used to pull that fuze often. I belive the truck has never had that fuze since I have owned it though as Im sure my dad wouldnt have been able to see well enough to check fuzes.(he has had corective lasik since then though)

What do ya think does a diesel need either ECM fuze or the AU-idle fuze?

Balzer
 
ECM is Engine Control Module. Your 6.2 doesn't have one. Now that fuse may be for something else as well but I don't know that.

Be sure to read MaxPF's build thread. Very good info there:D

Wait a minute, I think you already are:o

On the J-code intake I've read you can cut out the separator for a slight boost increase. Haven't seen any real numbers though, just impressions.

Should you need a J code intake PM me
 
Plan I have right now is finish the swap, then tear down the one i pull out and check things out. If its rebuildable I will probably do a slow build on it, with as many extra goodies as I can throw at it. That will make it a LONG SLOW build but as money is availabe I will splurge. The engine going in will remain as is, aside from a cleanup and replace any seals or gaskets that have obviously been leaking.

Any one know what the AU-idle fuze is for?

Balzer
 
Ok I was given a j-code intake (well a complete-ly disassebled 6.2) and i have a question.
Once i eleiminate the tuna can and all that other stuff what goes in this hole on the j-code intake? On the EGR intake 2 lines come from the tuna can and into either side of the intake.

Balzer
 
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you cant get rid of the "tuna can" its the crankcase decompression regulator, without it you will mess up the rings in the engine. If you are going to a "cold-air" intake or a turbo then you need to run a hose from the bottom of the CDR valve to a spot on the intake pipe so the gases can be recycled.
 
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