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6.2 Turbo.

gird123

gird123

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I just bought a 6.5 Turbo for my 6.2. I was not looking, but I felt it was a good price.

Came with intake manifold, exhaust manifold, Turbo, and ac delete for 200$.

IMG_20160209_153941979_HDR.jpg IMG_20160209_153947120_HDR.jpg IMG_20160209_153956250_HDR.jpg IMG_20160209_154008682_HDR.jpg

So there is a lot of info on installing the feed line and the return in the block off plate and getting an electric pump. I don't feel there is much info on the boost gauge and pyro for this setup. I'm very new to turbo. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Searching and reading a lot.
 
I thought it was a good price. Thank you for the feed back. Any suggestions on pyrometer or boost setup for my turbo?
 
I'm not sure for the 6.2

I would assume most stuff is like the 6.5 since that's what I have always heard. Most guys say to stay around 10-11 psi on boost for a stock engine, but the 6.2 may be different.
 
GWeakland620 said:
I'm not sure for the 6.2

I would assume most stuff is like the 6.5 since that's what I have always heard. Most guys say to stay around 10-11 psi on boost for a stock engine, but the 6.2 may be different.
Click to expand...

6.2 engines run higher compression than 6.5 engines, so they are more fragile where boost is concerned. There are some good 6.2/6.5 turbine guys on here. I'm not one of them (my turbine setup is still in a box, and I'm missing a few pieces, too). But I'll tag a few of them.

@AgDieseler, @longbedder.

I know there are others, but I'm drawing a blank right now. :doah: I'm sure they will know who to talk to.
 
Interesting that you have a 6.2 J-code-style intake manifold with those 6.5 parts. And that looks like an '84+ 6.2 box-style fuel filter. I'm curious what the mix-and-match parts came off of.

But I'm even more curious to see what you're putting them on. :thumb: :popcorn:
 
They leak lol, I ve only seen them on cucv,s that was my assumption. most civvys i have seen have a spin on.
 
Cucvnut said:
They leak lol, I ve only seen them on cucv,s that was my assumption. most civvys i have seen have a spin on.
Click to expand...

spin-ons were only used in 1982 and 1983. After that all trucks (CUCVs included) had the leaky box filters. I can't see any difference between my civilian box and my CUCV box.
 
GWeakland620 said:
Most guys say to stay around 10-11 psi on boost for a stock engine, but the 6.2 may be different.
Click to expand...
The GM-X series is great for responsiveness, and it seems like you got a decent price on it. Check the turbine play - a little side to side is okay, but no fore and aft. On that turbo, 10-12 is as high as you can usefully go, regardless of whether you're intercooled, though that's always preferred. In the name of responsiveness, the exhaust side of the turbo is a fairly restrictive past 10psi, so EGTs climb quickly.

campfire said:
6.2 engines run higher compression than 6.5 engines, so they are more fragile where boost is concerned.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't worry about compression ratio being a limiting factor. The variances are small - 20.2, 21.3, 22.5 are a few ratios across the 6.2/6.5 range - and they'll all perform similarly under the boost levels noted. Check for cracks in the main webs and scuffing on bearing surfaces.

Injection system aside, the biggest component advantage the 6.5 has going for it is the anodized piston crown, giving it about 150F (1250 vs 1100) more operating room than the 6.2. For me, I don't spend a lot of time north of 1000F EGT.

Invest in a new balancer, and make sure your injectors spray cleanly. Without pulling the heads off, that's a good start. Congratulations on your new turbo!

David
 
@AgDieseler pretty well covered it (~10PSI max across GM diesels with stock innards). The math looks like this:
[Atmospheric pressure (14.7 PSI at sea level) + Gauge Pressure (say 10 PSI)] x Compression Ratio (18.1 to 22.5) = Static Cylinder Pressure

That means the predominant factor driving sensitivity is the compression ratio rather than the boost.

I'd also add that, due to the relatively enormous drive pressures required for both GM-x series turbos and aftermarket non-wastegate turbos (Banks), you wouldn't really want to be in the truck were it spinning enough to throw down 15+ PSI. You'd be puckered and need earmuffs :yikes:

The Dodge Holset turbos, by way of comparison, have much lower drive pressures.

@campfire - thanks for the nod, man. This stuff is definitely fun.
 
longbedder said:
@AgDieseler pretty well covered it (~10PSI max across GM diesels with stock innards). The math looks like this:
[Atmospheric pressure (14.7 PSI at sea level) + Gauge Pressure (say 10 PSI)] x Compression Ratio (18.1 to 22.5) = Static Cylinder Pressure

That means the predominant factor driving sensitivity is the compression ratio rather than the boost.

I'd also add that, due to the relatively enormous drive pressures required for both GM-x series turbos and aftermarket non-wastegate turbos (Banks), you wouldn't really want to be in the truck were it spinning enough to throw down 15+ PSI. You'd be puckered and need earmuffs :yikes:

The Dodge Holset turbos, by way of comparison, have much lower drive pressures.
Click to expand...

:thumb:
 
longbedder said:
The Dodge Holset turbos, by way of comparison, have much lower drive pressures.
Click to expand...

I'm curious the incremental benefit, if any, of going from the Banks wastegated TE06H (what I have) to a Holset 35 or the like.

David
 
AgDieseler said:
I'm curious the incremental benefit, if any, of going from the Banks wastegated TE06H (what I have) to a Holset 35 or the like.

David
Click to expand...
I don't know what the maps on those two look like in comparison. If/when my Banks (no wastegate) fails on my 6.2l, I'm gonna adapt something else with a gate in there so I have boost on the low end. While I love having the turbo, I hate having to wind out the RPMs to get any boost. With the gate, setting max boost with a spring is easy-peasy.
 
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