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6.2 valve cover gaskets

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kinson33

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according to a member on another forum who said he read the manual, the 6.2s aren't supposed to use cork gaskets, just the liquid seal "right stuff". If this is correct why do they sell gaskets online?

Curious BC my diesel is leaking pretty good from the valve covers and need to do something to them soon, just making sure I'm doing it right! Thanks
 
Many vehicles had NO gaskets other than head gaskets and a few others starting in the late 80's,when RTV silicone became popular....but that doesn't mean no gaskets are "better",it was just cheaper for the manufacturers to use "goop" instead...RTV does work very well though,provided you use the correct formulation on the right application,so a gasket might just be an un-needed extra cost item,depending on the part in question..............................................................................................I have used RTV without gaskets on many valve covers and had zero leaks..others I tried using gaskets on did leak,when the gasket split or was tucked in beyond the sealing surface too though..I think the fact the aftermarketers make gaskets for applications where none were used factory is so folks who feel a gasket is needed can increase their profits...some people dont like RTV,others dont like cork gaskets,only rubber ones are "good",etc...its a matter of personal preference more than anything...either way works!...on a 6.2 though,I cant blame you for wanting to only do it ONCE,seeing the intake and injector lines have to come off ,to get the valve covers off....(precisely why MY 6.2's are both still leaking at the valve covers!)...
 
I have done lots of 6.2-6.5 head gaskets over the years, and have been succesfull in getting cork gaskets to seal for awhile ( about a year). Done correctly, they will never leak done with silicone.
The problem is that the valve covers are too flimsy, and the gasket is not wide enough.
 
black dawg said:
I have done lots of 6.2-6.5 head gaskets over the years, and have been succesfull in getting cork gaskets to seal for awhile ( about a year). Done correctly, they will never leak done with silicone.
The problem is that the valve covers are too flimsy, and the gasket is not wide enough.
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So its a bear of a job, and a shop quoted me about $280 to reseal them with the black goop. Seems like a good deal, what do ya'll think?
 
Agreed,but if an injector line breaks during the removal/installation process---it'll get a lot more expensive quickly,so keep that in mind............................
 
Also I have found valve covers only leak when they are bent / dented from people over tightening or prying them off. You can put the same ones back on, but if they aren't perfectly flat they are just going to leak again.
 
diesel4me said:
Agreed,but if an injector line breaks during the removal/installation process---it'll get a lot more expensive quickly,so keep that in mind............................
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That's what I was thinking, if they break something its on them to make it right. If I do it and break something... Eesh
 
Richcz28 said:
Also I have found valve covers only leak when they are bent / dented from people over tightening or prying them off. You can put the same ones back on, but if they aren't perfectly flat they are just going to leak again.
Click to expand...

a good shop can hammer those back into shape, right? Or would it be easier to pick up some new covers?
 
Using RTV ,which is much more forgiving than a gasket if the covers are warped,will produce the best chances of no leaks.....dont know where you can buy new valve covers for a 6.2,bet they aren't cheap if you find any...Mine are probably rusted thru in places,judging by the looks of them!.:doah:..I do have a pair on a parts engine I can salvage,they are a bit better looking than whats on my pickup...my suburban's valve covers are pure rust,all the paint flaked off like someone put paint remover on them!..:(
 
diesel4me said:
Using RTV ,which is much more forgiving than a gasket if the covers are warped,will produce the best chances of no leaks.....dont know where you can buy new valve covers for a 6.2,bet they aren't cheap if you find any...Mine are probably rusted thru in places,judging by the looks of them!.:doah:..I do have a pair on a parts engine I can salvage,they are a bit better looking than whats on my pickup...my suburban's valve covers are pure rust,all the paint flaked off like someone put paint remover on them!..:(
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sounds like a trip to the salvage yard is in my near future. Do we share the same size valve covers as the 6.5's?
 
Is there oil dripping on the ground or constantly smoking off the manifolds? If they are just weeping I really wouldn't bother. I definitely wouldn't get new ones unless they are rotted. Just make an effort to check that yours are flat. Use a small level or something you know is straight along the gasket surface and if they aren't bend them until they are.
 
Richcz28 said:
Is there oil dripping on the ground or constantly smoking off the manifolds? If they are just weeping I really wouldn't bother. I definitely wouldn't get new ones unless they are rotted. Just make an effort to check that yours are flat. Use a small level or something you know is straight along the gasket surface and if they aren't bend them until they are.
Click to expand...

Oil drops a fair amount after a long trip. It'll only be a few drips around town. But I took it to the lake this past weekend (3 hours away) and there were quite a few spots. I guess I'll wait til my next oil change to see how much I'm losing. After I bought it from the guy and got it changed it was .5qt low. Mostly sat in his driveway though for the past year
 
"diesels love oil like a sailor loves rum" - captain Ron
 
If you are sure the valve covers are the reason oil is dripping to the ground I would reseal them. Have you looked at the rear main seal...

Also have you replaced the cdr valve. I have noticed less oil consumption since I did.
 
Richcz28 said:
If you are sure the valve covers are the reason oil is dripping to the ground I would reseal them. Have you looked at the rear main seal...

Also have you replaced the cdr valve. I have noticed less oil consumption since I did.
Click to expand...

Not familiar with cdr term. Does it work the same as a pcv?
 
Yeah, It is similar. It means crank case decompression regulator I think.
 
I'm pretty sure the 6.5's valve covers are the same as a 6.2,but I'd check first with a junkyard or dealer to see for sure they'll work first...................................................................................................The CDR valve is getting difficult to come by I've heard,so if you can find a new one at a dealer or auto parts store,I'd get one now,before the price skyrockets or it just isn't available any more...if it isn't working right it can let pressure build up in the crankcase,just like a gas engine with a plugged up PCV valve.....also I have noticed some 6.2's had a sealed oil filler cap,and some had a vented one...I bet if the wrong one is used ,it wont let the CDR valve do its job...
 
diesel4me said:
I'm pretty sure the 6.5's valve covers are the same as a 6.2,but I'd check first with a junkyard or dealer to see for sure they'll work first...................................................................................................The CDR valve is getting difficult to come by I've heard,so if you can find a new one at a dealer or auto parts store,I'd get one now,before the price skyrockets or it just isn't available any more...if it isn't working right it can let pressure build up in the crankcase,just like a gas engine with a plugged up PCV valve.....also I have noticed some 6.2's had a sealed oil filler cap,and some had a vented one...I bet if the wrong one is used ,it wont let the CDR valve do its job...
Click to expand...


Should we have vented or sealed caps? Or does it depend on the 6.2?
 
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