6.2 won't start

[thebird00]

It's an M1010. Basic 6.2, just a different charging system. I had the alternators off for about a month to have them rebuilt. The alternators are back in and the batteries have been fully charged.

It will crank like crazy but will never start. I thought I had flooded it so I let it set over night and tried it this morning. Same thing, cranks super fast but will never fire off. I shot some WD-40 in the air cleaner but it didn't help.

I even tried ether and all it did was sound like i was beating the pistons with a 10lb sledge. Any ideas?

P.S. The fuel filter on the firewall did have pressure on it when I took it off and tons of fuel in there.

 

[thebird00]

Just wanted to add that this thing started fine before. It doesn't seem like 4 weeks sitting could make that big of a deal. I haven't touched anything but the alternators and batteries, then the fuel filter once it didn't start. Can these motors flood?

 

[6.2Blazer]

There is a diesel/6.2 specific forum on here that I would recommend moving this question to (if you haven't already). But a few quick notes:

Pretty sure you can't flood these.

NEVER use starting fluid or anything in these engines if you glow plugs are working.

 

[thebird00]

Yeah I know ether is a no-no and it made some horrible knocking sounds. I'll copy this to the diesel forum.

 

[Blue85]

Check the glow plugs.
-Are the resistances all close?
-Is the power to them cycling on and off?
-How many seconds do the plugs have power to them?

 

[dremu]

It's an M1010. Basic 6.2, just a different charging system. I had the alternators off for about a month to have them rebuilt. The alternators are back in and the batteries have been fully charged.

It will crank like crazy but will never start. I thought I had flooded it so I let it set over night and tried it this morning. Same thing, cranks super fast but will never fire off. I shot some WD-40 in the air cleaner but it didn't help.

I even tried ether and all it did was sound like i was beating the pistons with a 10lb sledge. Any ideas?

P.S. The fuel filter on the firewall did have pressure on it when I took it off and tons of fuel in there.

I *thought* the M1010 (ambulance, right?) had AC, and so had ONE 24V alternator (28V charge, whatever ... but not "12" volts.)

Form what little I know about dizzles, I'm thinking the glowplugs aren't getting juice. Easy to check; put a voltmeter on one of the wires and turn the key on. Actually, from my M1009, I remember being able to see the volt gauge drop when the glow plugs did their thing, and then jump up a bit when they were done. I used that (and the *click* from the relay, wherever it was buried) as an indicator of when to start, as opposed to the orange light.

-- A

 

[thebird00]

Check the glow plugs.
-Are the resistances all close?
-Is the power to them cycling on and off?
-How many seconds do the plugs have power to them?

Where do I put the leads to check resistance?

It's 100 degrees here, shouldn't it start without the glow plugs?

 

[thebird00]

I *thought* the M1010 (ambulance, right?) had AC, and so had ONE 24V alternator (28V charge, whatever ... but not "12" volts.)

Form what little I know about dizzles, I'm thinking the glowplugs aren't getting juice. Easy to check; put a voltmeter on one of the wires and turn the key on. Actually, from my M1009, I remember being able to see the volt gauge drop when the glow plugs did their thing, and then jump up a bit when they were done. I used that (and the *click* from the relay, wherever it was buried) as an indicator of when to start, as opposed to the orange light.

-- A

It is the ambulance and does have the A/C. It has a different bracket that locates 2- 24V alternators on the passenger side.

What should I look for on the voltmeter when I turn the key on?

 

[dieselponyexpress]

I don't think glow plugs are an issue - if it even didn't start using ether. Could be wrong anyway

Disconnect the pink wire from the injection pump. If reconnecting you should here a click from inside the ip.

You could also loosen some of the high pressure lines at the injectors. While cranking, fuel should be spilling out.

Walter

 

[thebird00]

I'm gonna try bleeding the filter first. If that doesn't help then I'm gonna move onto the lines. I'll attempt to check the glow plugs too. Thanks for the good advice everyone.

 

[dieselponyexpress]

I'm gonna try bleeding the filter first. If that doesn't help then I'm gonna move onto the lines. I'll attempt to check the glow plugs too. Thanks for the good advice everyone.

Good luck!

If you had the filter off and on before without bleeding and cranked it afterwards, there's a good chance that you have an airlocked fuel system (air trapped between ip and injectors). Only way to remove air is loosening some of the incector lines.

Walter

 

[thebird00]

I went out to work on it tonight and cranked it twice and it sputtered. Then on the 3rd try it came to life. It is starting and idling fine right now. Do you think I should still try to bleed the system.

The voltmeter is only showing about 13.25 at the batteries. I checked it with a little throttle and it didn't charge anymore. Not sure about that.

I'm just happy it started right now.

 

[rwright07]

no, dont crack the lines, that will just give you the same problem again. sounds like all your cranking got the air out of the lines.

you should be fine

 

[fallout232]

The 6.2/6.5's will automatically bleed the air from the lines through the return line system. Should be no need to crack the injector lines open once it starts as the lines will purge themselves of air the motor continues to run. I have only needed to crack the lines to assist in bleeding when I have had the pump off and no fuel remained in the system for extended periods of time.

 

[thebird00]

Well that's good news to me. Thanks for all the help guys. Now when I change the fuel filter I'll at least know I need to bleed that.