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6.2l diesel dual V belts?

eodcoduto

eodcoduto

We could have been closer.
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I know everyone will say switch over to a serpentine system, but I don't want to change my water pump in my driveway. So, does anyone know of the part numbers needed to put dual groove pulleys on the alternator and PS pump? I am in the shopping mode right now, an early HMMWV setup may work too.
 
eodcoduto said:
I know everyone will say switch over to a serpentine system, but I don't want to change my water pump in my driveway. So, does anyone know of the part numbers needed to put dual groove pulleys on the alternator and PS pump? I am in the shopping mode right now, an early HMMWV setup may work too.
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I don't know about the alternator, but the PS pumps often had dual groove pulleys. Look for a PS pulley from a truck with factory A/C. The CUCV pulley setup can work, but the 2 belts are going different speeds thanks to the extra alternator, so be careful not to mix-n-match pulleys between the systems.
 
campfire said:
When you get tired of V-belts, I still have a big box of serpentine brackets... :whistle:
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Ha! there is a full serpentine setup with the alt, ps pump, ac, and everything for $200 locally. I just really don't want to tear the front of the engine down.
 
My '90 K5 with the factory 6.2 came with A/C and a dual groove pulley on the P/S pump......however each groove is a different size (and the crank pulley has corresponding different sizes). One belt ran just over the P/S and the other over the P/S and around the A/C. After removing the A/C and running just the one belt I had lot's of trouble with the P/S squeeling and tried everything. Finally spent a little bit of time trying different belts and found the right size shorter belt that would run over the smaller pulley on both the crank and P/S and tighten up correctly with the other larger belt. Not the ideal setup but prevented tearing the front of the engine down. I've ran this setup for years now.
 
6.2Blazer said:
My '90 K5 with the factory 6.2 came with A/C and a dual groove pulley on the P/S pump......however each groove is a different size (and the crank pulley has corresponding different sizes). One belt ran just over the P/S and the other over the P/S and around the A/C. After removing the A/C and running just the one belt I had lot's of trouble with the P/S squeeling and tried everything. Finally spent a little bit of time trying different belts and found the right size shorter belt that would run over the smaller pulley on both the crank and P/S and tighten up correctly with the other larger belt. Not the ideal setup but prevented tearing the front of the engine down. I've ran this setup for years now.
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Do you know the part # for the belts you used?
 
I was thinking of something like that, or like a serpentine tensioner. I remember our C60 grain trucks, with a 366 and a 427 had dual belts on everything. I imagine Chevy kept the pulleys the same across engine families so I might try a set of those as well.
 
You do not need an idler to run dual belts. You simply need proper pulleys. I'm using two of the stock P/S belts for my 1984 K1500 Suburban, which originally had air conditioning. I simply bought a second stock-length belt and placed it into service on the stock pulleys. On my setup, both grooves have the same diameter, so there is no difference in belt speed (this is obviously not true for all configurations, but rockauto thinks my configuration is normal for this year).
 
campfire said:
You do not need an idler to run dual belts. You simply need proper pulleys. I'm using two of the stock P/S belts for my 1984 K1500 Suburban, which originally had air conditioning. I simply bought a second stock-length belt and placed it into service on the stock pulleys. On my setup, both grooves have the same diameter, so there is no difference in belt speed (this is obviously not true for all configurations, but rockauto thinks my configuration is normal for this year).
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Mine has two sizes of sheaves on the PS pump, but a trip to the parts store might be in order to grab a few belts and see what fits.
 
Found this formula, so I'll measure them this weekend.
L=2C+1.57(D + d)
L= Pitch Length of Belt, C = Center Distance (pulley to pulley), D = Diameter of Large Sheave, d = Diameter of Small Sheave
 
eodcoduto said:
Mine has two sizes of sheaves on the PS pump, but a trip to the parts store might be in order to grab a few belts and see what fits.
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As long as your size ratios match on both the P/S pulley and the crank pulley, you will be fine (once you determine the correct belt lengths). But I thought you said your P/S pulley only fits one belt? :dunno:
 
My '85 Suburban's 6.2 had A/C (parts missing now,no compressor or condensor ),it's P/S pump has a double sheaved pulley with both of them the same diameter..|
I mounted a plow pump where the A/C compressor used to be..run it off one of the P/S pump & crank pulleys that formerly drove the A/C compressor..

The single V-belt on my pickup's 6.2 vibrates and flaps around so much even with it properly tensioned it looks like it might jump off the pulleys,but it never has so far--probably because the govenor prevents it from revving high enough,otherwise I bet it would..
I have considered adding an idler pulley to the belt on the "slack" side to stop the whipping action,but since it hasn't come off I haven't bothered..I think that was why GM switched to serpentine belts on 6.2's..
 
diesel4me said:
My '85 Suburban's 6.2 had A/C (parts missing now,no compressor or condensor ),it's P/S pump has a double sheaved pulley with both of them the same diameter..|
I mounted a plow pump where the A/C compressor used to be..run it off one of the P/S pump & crank pulleys that formerly drove the A/C compressor..

The single V-belt on my pickup's 6.2 vibrates and flaps around so much even with it properly tensioned it looks like it might jump off the pulleys,but it never has so far--probably because the govenor prevents it from revving high enough,otherwise I bet it would..
I have considered adding an idler pulley to the belt on the "slack" side to stop the whipping action,but since it hasn't come off I haven't bothered..I think that was why GM switched to serpentine belts on 6.2's..
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If it's whipping, something is not right. Lack of tension is the obvious answer, but you might also have a bent sheave. :dunno:
 
No.it is just the nature of the beast--I have read the older 6.2's had problems with the single V belts flapping even when tensioned properly due to the firing cycle of the engine being great due to the high compression..

GM tried using the different style harmonic balancer with a rubber insulator to reduce the transfer of firing impulses to the belt(s) on later 6.2's ,but the older engines like mine just had a balancer like a gas engine..
My Suburban's alternator belt does the same thing,I haven't looked to see if it has the same balancer as my pickup--I just consider it "normal" for the 6.2's to do this..the only pulley on my pickup with any "wobble" is the one someone added on to the balancer to power the plow pump and its not that much,and its likely one of the 3 spacers on the bolts wasn't cut perfectly and doesn't match the other two in length..all the other pulleys are perfect..
 
eodcoduto said:
Found this formula, so I'll measure them this weekend.
L=2C+1.57(D + d)
L= Pitch Length of Belt, C = Center Distance (pulley to pulley), D = Diameter of Large Sheave, d = Diameter of Small Sheave
Click to expand...
Did you work this out?
 
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